Chesmari Posted June 1, 2024 Report Posted June 1, 2024 Hello Everybody, First time using a Link. I'm reaching out to see if anyone can help me sort this out. 60-2 Trigger Wheel w/ Honda Reluctor Hall Effect Cam sensor Toyota Yaris COP Honda TPS GM IAT GM ECT 750cc High Impedance Injectors Volvo IAC Valve AEM Wideband Bosch 044 Fuel Pump Electric Radiator fan Everything has been checked, tested and calibrated. Turned the engine and no spark. What am I missing? Any comments, solutions and assistance is truly appreciated. Ryan Trigger Scope - 2024-05-31 8;09;20 pm.llgx Toyota Corolla 2T-GTEU.pclx Quote
Adamw Posted June 1, 2024 Report Posted June 1, 2024 Ok, two initial problems: The trigger scope shows no signal at all on trig 1, but looking at the AN Volt 1 voltage I suspect that is probably just because you have clicked the capture button before cranking rather than during cranking, so try that again, make sure you only click capture when the engine is turning. The cam sensor is showing 2.2V in the scope, it should be either close to either 0V or 3.7V, so 2.2V suggests the sensor is pinned wrong. What is the cam sensor off? Quote
Chesmari Posted June 1, 2024 Author Report Posted June 1, 2024 Copy that. The cam sensor is from a Jeep. Ryan Quote
Chesmari Posted June 1, 2024 Author Report Posted June 1, 2024 I'll sort out the pin out for the cam sync. Thank you so much. Ryan Trigger Scope - 2024-06-1 8;59;28 am.llgx Quote
Chesmari Posted June 1, 2024 Author Report Posted June 1, 2024 (edited) I re-pinned the cam sync, no spark. Kindly advise. Ryan Trigger Scope - 2024-06-1 2;30;56 pm.llgx Edited June 1, 2024 by Chesmari Updated information. Quote
Adamw Posted June 2, 2024 Report Posted June 2, 2024 The crank sensor is wired wrong polarity, swap the +/- wires at the sensor plug. There is still an issue with the cam sensor - in the 8:59 trigger scope the cam sensor voltage is still 2.2V so I assume that was before you changed the cam sensor wiring. In the 2:30 scope the cam sensor voltage sits at 0.2V the whole time but also the crank sensor waveform looks a bit messed up so I think the pinout is still wrong. The pic below seems to match the FSM we have, is this how yours is wired? Quote
Chesmari Posted June 4, 2024 Author Report Posted June 4, 2024 Thank you so much Adam. Re-pinned according to your instructions, initially the ground and output were in the wrong order. BTW with this cam sync sensor, is it falling or rising? Ryan Trigger Scope - 2024-06-3 5;37;05 pm.llgx Quote
Adamw Posted June 4, 2024 Report Posted June 4, 2024 Ok, your crank signal now looks good and your voltage on trig 2 is more like what I expect - but the cam sensor is still not showing any "tooth". Is your "chopper disc" steel/magnetic? According to the note on the drawing above you should have a low voltage when there is no metal in front of the sensor and a high voltage when there is metal in front of the sensor (this actually opposite of how most similar sensors work so it might be wrong). But to help diagnose, you can use the trigger scope just like a voltmeter without the engine turning. If you pull your cam sensor off (but leave it plugged in) then do a scope capture you should see either ~3.5V or ~0V on trig 2 in the scope. Then if you place a piece of metal in between the magnet and sensor then do another scope capture you should see the opposite high/low voltage. Quote
Chesmari Posted June 7, 2024 Author Report Posted June 7, 2024 I think I sorted it out. I wasn't getting +5V. I originally had the +5V on AN V4 but it was off, I didn't realize it until after I teed out of the +5V that was going to the TPS. Ryan Trigger Scope - 2024-06-7 3;16;21 pm.llgx Quote
Chesmari Posted July 4, 2024 Author Report Posted July 4, 2024 Still no spark. I modified a map for a 3SGE. What am I missing? Ryan Toyota Corolla 2T-GTEU.pclx Trigger Scope - 2024-07-3 9;44;05 pm.llgx Quote
Adamw Posted July 4, 2024 Report Posted July 4, 2024 You've got some noise on trigger 1 in places that crosses the threshold and zero so generates "teeth" that shouldn't be there. This noise was less apparent in your earlier scopes. The noise gets worse in patches where the cranking RPM dips the most (compression stroke). From this observation I would lean towards something like a bad ground or possibly something like the starter motor brushes arcing or similar. Your scope suggests it is only cranking at 70-120RPM, whereas 200-250RPM would be more typical so I would start by investigating why that cranking speed is so low. Batt voltage, starter wiring, poor ground, worn starter etc. Chesmari and TTP 2 Quote
Chesmari Posted November 10, 2024 Author Report Posted November 10, 2024 Hi Adam, How does this look? Brand new battery and I had a loose starter bolt. Ryan Trigger Scope - 2024-11-10 8;49;11 am.llgx Quote
Adamw Posted November 10, 2024 Report Posted November 10, 2024 No, still just as bad. lots of noise and cranking RPM drops below 50RPM in some places. Not really part of your issue, but it also looks like 1 cylinder has much less compression than the other 3 too. Have you got a part number for the crank sensor - or know what engine it is from? Does it have a 2 pin plug or 3 pin? Quote
Chesmari Posted November 11, 2024 Author Report Posted November 11, 2024 Thank you. I had to check the compression after reading your reply. #4 has 0 compression. 37500-P72-A01 from a 1997-2001 Honda CR-V with a 2 pin plug. Ryan Quote
Adamw Posted November 11, 2024 Report Posted November 11, 2024 Is this using a Link "A" loom or a modified factory loom or something else? TTP 1 Quote
Chesmari Posted November 12, 2024 Author Report Posted November 12, 2024 It is using a Link A loom. Ryan Quote
Adamw Posted November 12, 2024 Report Posted November 12, 2024 9 hours ago, Chesmari said: 37500-P72-A01 from a 1997-2001 Honda CR-V with a 2 pin plug. Ok, looking at pics of that sensor I notice that one of the bolt holes has a metal insert in it, I wonder if maybe that is part of the ground circuit in the factory application. Can you remove the sensor and measure resistance between the 4 points I have labelled A-D. So, measure between A to B, A to C, A to D, B to C, B to D, C to D, most of these except A>B should show open circuit "OL" but please note down any that dont and report back. Also can you confirm for the crank sensor wiring, this is connected straight to the black and white wires inside the black shielded cable that is part of the A loom - there are no other splices or bulkhead connectors etc that have been added in to the path of the black shielded cable? Quote
Chesmari Posted November 19, 2024 Author Report Posted November 19, 2024 I measured and the only one without OL was A>B. The sensor is connected to the shielded wire by itself, nothing is spliced or added to it. I did notice that the bolt to the bracket with the metal insert was loose, would that create the noise? Ryan Quote
Chesmari Posted January 4 Author Report Posted January 4 Hi Adam, How is this looking? Ryan Trigger Scope - 2025-01-3 4;50;39 pm.llgx Quote
Chesmari Posted January 4 Author Report Posted January 4 Now having a trigger error. Spark is not consistent. Ryan Trigger Scope - 2025-01-4 1;12;57 pm.llgx PC Datalog - 2025-01-4 1;42;13 pm.llgx Quote
Laminar Posted January 5 Report Posted January 5 Same problem as before - your crank signal is very noisy so the ECU is counting extra teeth due to the crank signal double-crossing the trigger threshold. Quote
Chesmari Posted January 5 Author Report Posted January 5 Copy that. Thank you so much. 18 minutes ago, Laminar said: Same problem as before - your crank signal is very noisy so the ECU is counting extra teeth due to the crank signal double-crossing the trigger threshold. Am I seeing this correctly? The noise is in the middle of the crank rotation? Ryan Trigger Scope - 2025-01-4 6;01;47 pm.llgx Quote
Laminar Posted January 5 Report Posted January 5 It’s right as the sensor voltage crosses the zero point, and it happens when the engine is turning over the slowest. There appears to be a high variation in cranking speed throughout the cycle. Quote
Adamw Posted January 5 Report Posted January 5 It looks like you've still got no compression on one cylinder and it still has very erratic cranking speed like the engine is partially seized or something? It drops from ~250rpm down to ~50rpm in the tight spot. The battery voltage is bouncing around a lot when cranking too, I dont really know what that means but it is likely related to or the cause of the noise on the trigger signal. Does it turn freely by hand with the spark plugs out? Why is the battery voltage 16.4V? Quote
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