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Best wiring joining practices

jason mcmullin

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im unsure if this is the correct forum page for me to write this in but its to do with a g4 so il try my luck what im after is what people have found to be the best way to connect the link loom to the plugs on the engine reason im asking is the poeple i have asked have contridicted them selfs the ways ive been told are ****soldering (but then told from another person dont solder the solder joins get old and go dry) ****pull the plug apart and join the wire from the link right to the we brass conectors (so its a full one piece wire without any joins) but im worryed about damaging the wires getting the we brass conectors out ****the last option was a guy saying that he dont trust solder but he used the we brass ring type things that ya squash up (ya sometimes see it when people have made two wires into one) im really lost and would like to get this link wired up and car going thanks in advance jase mcmullin

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buy new crimp pins/seals for the housings from your original loom, then terminate the link loom the same as the factory loom.

I use the proper  U-shaped crimp splice terminals when doing joins mid loom the same as toyota/subaru do in their factory looms.

You can buy terminals for AMP/Tyco/Sumitomo/Kostal/Yazaki/Bosch/Delphi etc  from http://www.bmotorsports.com/

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Out of Preference, I would go and get the terminal from the car, (taking time and patience) remove the connector from the loom end plug take the 'sample' wire connectors to the company named above, if you in Victoria, I'd recommend Jay-Dee in Bayswater, they will also sell you the crimping tool for the wire terminals.

If you cannot get the termianls (which I have had that problem) the following should help...

Done right, a soldered piece of wire to wire will not fail, they can last 20 years and still work (all joints inside the ECU are soldered, the terminal pins that you plug you loom into would be either friction fit into the PCB or soldered)

There are time you absolutely cannot get the crimp connectors (custom connectors) don't pull the connector apart and solder the wire to the spring terminal, excessive heat can make the terminal loose its 'springyness' and your hard work is not trying to find that intermittent fault.

If you have a crimp connector you cannot find, cut the terminals wire long, strip back about 10mm of insulation, if its a nice bright shiny copper colour, or silver (tinned copper wire) then it should solder cleanly, if not, it *will* give you endless problems (dry joints)

If joining the wire, get some heat-shrink that is capable to shrink down to smaller than the wire insulation size, but also easy enough to slip over (before assembly) the heat shrink length should be about >=3 times the joint length

I usually strip the same amount of wire from both halves, then (with the heat-shrink over 1 of the 2 wires) I will push the 2 ends together, so the individual strands will mesh in amongst the others of the other piece, then twist the whole lot together, then solder, making sure the solder 'flows' easily

Wait until its cool *before* slipping the heat-shrink over the joint slipping it over early, you may not get it in position fast enough

If you make the wire from the connector to the splice long enough, it gives you the ability of hiding the splice inside some corrugated split tubing or loom.

This is how I used to manufacture the custom looms for Bosch Australia for their EMC and thermal testing stations, and the soldered connections would fare better than the DUT (device under test) so, soldered wire connections, if done correctly and cleanly, should last.

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It really is a matter of personal opinion from what I have found... I have been a believer in solder all my life, however have also recently been told it doesn't last.  I would imagine if you solder non-contaminated wire and follow 'best' proceedures, then heatshrink with a glue style inard should seal this from the air, and give the join support.  I can't really see any problems with this.

Then there are the pros I have been talking to recently, that will swear black and blue that the hermetically sealed Deutsch connectors are the way to go.  These are; or are similar to the original OEM style connectors found in most Japanese cars from the '90s onwards.  FYI... These are crimped only, and I have driven many reliable Japanese cars that are 10-20 years old.

You will never find anyone to agree to anything specific on this subject, as it is all very opinion based (please no-one flame me over that LOL), but I am sure if you check out how a formula car is wired, they would use what they have found to be the best, and I would trust that ;)


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thanks heaps for the replys. was a great help. im going to try and get brand new we connectors and make one continious wire from computer to plug next problem i live in nz and ive been around my local firms asking about were to get the we plugs and everyone cant really tell me were to get them from so help from who ever in nz on were to get the we pins/connectors from thanks again jase

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