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Loss of sensors, IC-7 dash and Can Lambda


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Posted

So far you guys have helped me solve every issue so thought I would raise the difficulty!

Over the last year I have had increasing inconsistent of

1. Haltech Dash - have to turn off ECU/Dash switch several times to get dash to fire up. Now completely dead. Assume it is fried as it will not power up when I apply 12V to it on the bench. (Time for Realdash!)

2. CAN Lambda used to start up then die shortly after. Periodically would run for a full pass at the strip. Now no data. Replaced Sensor today with a new one and same results. In RunTime Values, it just shows it cycling the heating cycle followed by error 33 - Open circuit.

3. I have 3 150PSI Link pressure sensors. Fuel pressure works flawlessly. Oil pressure used to be intermittent and would come back to life if unplugged then plugged back in. Now nothing. Coolant pressure is not functional. I also have Coolant Temp and IAT functioning without issue. I have plugged the three pressure sensor plugs into a 4th sensor (spare) to test if they show any data. I get the same result with each plug - FP works, Coolant and oil pressure pressure do not. 

I originally thought this was related to my previous issue that started after I went to a 16V system. Since then I have installed a voltage regulator feeding the ECU and dash and has not changed the situation. 

I can post logs if needed.

Posted

Finally got back to working on the car today and replaced the two sensors and I now have oil pressure and coolant pressure. 

I am wondering if the 16V system was the cause as it measures >17V at times. 

Maybe killed the CAN Lambda and display?

Posted

Error 33 on the CAN lambda is usually a noisy power supply or lack of current.  Connect it straight to the battery as a test.  

Posted

Yes, X-series works via CAN, there are templates for it in PC Link.  It uses 500Kbit however and I believe the ic7 cant with the latest update.  

Posted

I just jumpered straight to the battery and still got error 33. 
I did notice that there are sections of the CAN wires that are not twisted, especially around where the nodes tie in.  First CAN wiring so unsure how critical this is?
There are only two devices normally connected, the dash and wideband. 
Also, I am assuming I do not need the 120 ohm resisters as I believe both the dash and CAN Lambda have them built in?

Posted

Error 33 is not a CAN error.

 

4 hours ago, jvalcamp said:

I just jumpered straight to the battery and still got error 33.

Both 12V & Gnd?    Are the wires at least 20awg?  Assuming yes to both of those questions then the next suggestion is to try adding a 22uF capacitor as per the alternative diagram in the quick start guide:  http://www.linkecu.com/documentation/CAN-LambdaQuickstartGuide.pdf

 

Posted

I installed the capacitor tonight right at the connector to the controller. At first it did not seem to be working but did eventually reach operating temp and returned good AFR values so it appears the capacitor has worked!

However, after sitting for 20 minutes we fired it back up and it took a good 4-5 minutes of running at idles (E85) to get it to reach temp again. Is this normal or should it be reaching temp closer to 30 seconds? Sensor is roughly 28 inches form the turbo.

Posted

Attach your map, I will add some further diagnostics channels to the CAN stream to see if that gives any clues.  It still sounds like a power supply issue from what you have mentioned so far.  It should reach operating temp within a max of about 30sec

Posted

I can do that tonight when I get home. 

In the meantime, I did purchase a 14point7 Spartan 3 V2 controller that we tested late last night and it seemed to work very quickly. We wired it up so that I can swap the controllers back and forth using the deutsch connector. It uses the same CAN and power wires as the Link controller. 

 

https://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-3-v2

And just to confirm, I had tried running the power to the O2 sensor straight from the battery. Second trial was with negative to battery, unfortunately not at the same time.

Posted

Two versions of your map attached, one will start the lambda heating as soon as ignition is switched on, the other delays heating until after start-up like the default control.  Testing with these two variations will help determine if the error is related to electrical noise or voltage drop etc.  

Load the "Lambda on continuous" map, and start PC logging as soon as possible after the map is loaded, let it heat for a minute or so then start the engine and keep it running for as long as it would normally take for an error to occur.  Stop logging if it hasnt heated or doesnt error after a couple of minutes. 

 

For the "Lambda on only when running" map, load this into the ecu, do a store, then power cycle ign.  Reconnect, start logging and record a normal start up and running for a couple of minutes.  If it doesnt error or doesnt display long heating times then try a couple more start-ups. 

Attach or share both logs when done.   

 

 

Lambda on only when running.pclr Lambda on continuous.pclr

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