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Starlet Glanza


Dadoulis Paschalis
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If you were to order five adapters, then we might consider making one, but for now unfortunately there is nothing available.  If you were to research the MR2 pinout and determine it was the same as yours then maybe we could do something, but as far as I know it is different...  Pretty sure Starlets are always a wire in...

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  • 2 weeks later...

the throttle position sensor will have to be changed, (the engine is a GT, they have the switch type sensors, glanzas have pontatiometers). In the manual says that the coolant temp sensor must be calibrated in the software...i guess i could either play with a thermometer or install one of the bosch sensors that are precalibrated. intake temp sensor is already on the intake manifold. Turns out i will have to buy the linkplus g3, cause the LEM supports only group injection :( too bad, the price was so nice...

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Yeah, that group injection thing is the key point between LPG3 and LEM G3.  Although, it is mainly an emissions and economy thing.  Sequential injection will not generally give you more power...  It is 90% likely that the coolant temp sensor will work with one of the precalibrated sensor options and you wont need to do anything...

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You will find that a lot of factory systems inject fuel against a closed valve even with sequential injection.  Typically injection ends about 360 degrees BTDC.  It definitely does not eat twice the fuel.  In some but not all cases an engine can run using less fuel at cruise and idle using sequential injection.  Driveability and power are not really affected at all.  Depends on cost it would take a long time to recover the cost of a sequential ECU in fuel savings, but I would personally use a sequential ECU coz im fussy!

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You can use whatever kind of ignition you want, wasted spark, direct spark, MSD etc...  The distributor will have all the triggering you require for any ignition mode and sequential injection.  The distributor should have a 24 tooth and 1 tooth pickup (and maybe also a 4 tooth pickup).  You need either 24 and 1 tooth, or 4 and 1 tooth pickups to run sequential injection and wasted or direct spark...

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry, I completely missed that post about ordering five adapters.  Please deal directly with Philip@LinkECU.com on this.   Also send me a copy of the email so I can make sure he keeps on at it...   Development time depends on our ability to get accurate information and a test car.  Production time is less than a week.

Hello again!

I'd like to know how fast these adaptors can be ready to be shipped out if I order five and if it is possible to send a lowered value invoice for example 50$ in total so as to avoid custom taxes!!

Waiting for your answer so as to proceed with the order!!

Thanks a lot!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hello there! I need a little bit of Help or you could say a lot of help! We've finally setuped LinkG3 ECU but athough sensors are reading ok something is wrong in our setup so the engine does not start! I''ve sent you as attachment my .pcl file (one in PClink 3.30 and one in Pclink 3.31) to tell me if something is wrong in our settings! Is there a need to replace the distributor with coils? I think no! I think we are mistaken in Distributor settings! I have a 24 and 1 tooth distributor! Fuel setup - Ignition setup - The most important Trigger Setup because I cannot get a correct signal for RPM! Thanks a lot!

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Trigger setup for a 24 and 1 distributor should be as follows:

  • Trig 1 wired to 24 tooth with correct polarity.
  • Trig 2 wired to 1 tooth with correct polarity
  • Trigger Mode = Multi Tooth
  • Multi-tooth location = Cam
  • Tooth Count = 24
  • Sync Pulse = Cam
  • Trigger 1 = Reluctor, Filter level 1.  Arming voltages like 0.3, 1, 1.5, 2 etc...
  • Trigger 2 = Reluctor, Filter level 2.  Arming voltagets like 0.3, 1, 1.5, 2 etc...
  • Ignition Mode = Distributed
  • Dwell Edge = Rising

   That should pretty muchly be enough to make it go assuming it is all wired correctly... 

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OK.  Here is how you will wire the crank angle sensors:

  • Trig 1 wires to NE
  • Trig 2 wires to the single tooth pulse, not the 4 tooth pulse which is usually G1 I think.
  • Both the 24 tooth and 1 tooth senor must be grounded!  Wire G- to the ECU's green sensor ground!  I think you have not done this.
  • G2 is not usually used.
  • STA is of no use unless you wire it to a digital input for the post crank prime function.

To test triggering.  Look at the Triggers runtime vales and check that they say YES when cranking.  Check that the RPM value is stable and about correct (usually 100-200 RPM at crank).   Check that the trigger error counter does not keep incrementing (you may get one or two counts on the first engine revolution).

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello there! One more question that came up! I can see that I cannot control the polarity of a GP output! Is it right what I can see? Does it always give one polarity? Or am I wrong to something? I fully understand the conditions and other stuff there! It's only the polarity that I cannot find! If you could help me again it would be perfect! Thanks again and again:)

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If you fully understand the conditions, then you will understand that to reverse the polarity of the appropriate conditions, to reverse the polarity of the output eg:

Conditions: ECT > 50 AND ECT < 90 will give an output that is ON (pin low) when temp is between 50 and 90 degrees, and OFF (pin high) when temp is above and below that range.

Conditions: ECT < 50 OR ECT > 90 will give an output that is OFF (pin high) when temp is between 50 and 90 degrees, and ON (pin low) when temp is above and below that range.

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