Jump to content

Link G1 V5 - 4AGE

Derek Kaijser

Recommended Posts


Ive got my hands on a Link G1 V5 with a SUB24NEW chip in it.

Im planning to run it on my ae92 16v 4AGE BigPort.

Ive started by getting a old standard ECU and unsoldering the plug and wiring that to the link loom.

It started off ok, with most wires matching up. But im a bit confused abou the Trigger wires.

So where would the Trigger wires go from the Link.? (The engine is still a Dizzy setup with coil, igniter etc)

Also would the Pump wire just go to one of the factory relays.? 

Another one im wondering about is the A/C magnetic switch that the standard ecu has, where would this hook up too...

Standard wiring pin-out attached.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trigger 1 will go to the 24 tooth output from the distributor.

Trigger two will connect to one of the sync (single tooth) sensors.

You will need to check your distributer is the late mode one with a 24 and a single tooth trigger. The most common distributer in the 4AGEs had a 24 and a 4 tooth which requires a different sub-board.

The G1 has no out put for AC control so there is no connection for the AC clutch.

The fuel pump out put will connect to the FPU pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Simon,

thanks for that.!

Turns out that the ecu pinout is not the correct one.. So the pump to FPU wont work..
(Correct pin-out attached) 

Ok my Dizzy is one with 24/4 teeth.
Is there a way to get it to work.? Like changing the setup on the ecu.?

Or is the only way to grind back the 3 teeth on the dizzy shaft...
And doing this, will that effect the standard ecu setup.? 

Also would i have to then run a wire to the dizzy for this, or it it just G1 on the pinout.?

Hugely appreciated!!


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes that sounds correct and yes the AUX1 can be used to control the TVIS.

For the triggers if you are happy to stay distributored then changing the sub-board would be the way to go.

If you want to go multi coil then modifying the distributor would be the option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok thanks for that!

Ive read in places that the common way is to modify the dizzy, but does that mean they are running coil packs.?

At the moment i just want to run the standard dizzy, igniter, coil and leads, but off the Link..

So changing the dizzy would that then work.. Or is that only if going in the individual coil pack way.

And when connecting i take it Trig1 goes to G1 and does Trig2 go to the G-, or no where..

(Pic attached of the inside of the Link)

And if that all fails, whats the cost to change the sub-board.?

Also would you have a base map for a ae92 16v 4AGE BigPort.?

Thanks for your help again Simon!! appreciate it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No that would  not work. As you would end up with all 4 coils firing at the same time.

You can modify the distributor triggers with out going to multi coil.

The Trigger 1 will attach to NE and Trigger 2 to G1

you will need an earth to G-




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok thanks for that!

Im just going to look out for another dizzy i cna then chop up, instead of using this one.

Although, will it effect the standard ECU if i was to trim 3 tabs off the dizzy.?

Also about running Air Con, i saw on a page this.

Air Conditioning - Fan and Clutch

Link ECUs can be configured to detect when a vehicle's air conditioning is turned on via a digital input. Auxiliary outputs can then be configured to separately control both the air conditioner fan and the compressor.

Essentially the fan will switch off any time the engine exceeds 2000 RPM, since at this point there should be enough air being forced through the system naturally to continue to allow cooling. The fan can also be configured to activate even when the air conditioning is turned off, at a user-defined engine temperature, so that more air can be forced through the radiator to provide extra cooling.

Additionally, when the air con is turned on, the user can specify a delay before the air con compressor is engaged, to allow time for the ECU to increase the amount of air bled into the engine via the idle speed control system to maintain a consistent idle.

Finally, the user can also configure the system to turn off the compressor when maximum power is required. This trigger for this can be throttle position, MAP or percentage fuel flow - e.g. when the throttle position is greater than 80%

Does this then mean i can run the A/C through a input to make it work.?

If so what input should i be using.?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well after a quite a few hours of cranking and getting nothing, im a bit stumped.

Anyone know if the smallport dizzy should actually work.? (with the timing all set up right)

The wires all match up, and i get a rpm reading on the laptop..

But just doesnt fire, or when it does it is very minor and just sputters, then stalls.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the RPM stable and around 200ish RPM?

If this is then you are looking for other reasons.

If the timing is stable and consistent on a timing light the ignition side is likely happy.

You can then look to if the motor is getting fuel. Also check the TPS  is spanned correctly in the ECU.

It should read 10 at closed throttle and 100 at WOT


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, yes rpm is stable around 200.

Ok, have some issues with timing. Sometimes its getting no spark on 1, but i did have it running for a short time, but the timing was way out. It would idle ok, but when being reved at all would bog and go back to idle.

A thought, what should the dip switches inside be set too.?
Also on the subboard there is 1 switch that has on or 1 on it. What is this for.?

And yes TPS is fine, reads 17 - 128. With no jumps.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Switch is for a timing offset. In almost all cases it should be lef in the off position.

If switched to the on position then the timing will be retarded by 1 tooth it is only read at key on.

Check the distributor is positioned correctly, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 ht tower of the cap when on TDC#1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all that info, very helpful!
Ive had it running once. Very lumpy and overfueling i think.
But now i get no spark..
Ive checked the dizzy clearances, new rotor and cap.
When it does spark its just a random one somewhere, no consistency.
Should it work correctly with the standard setup.?
Ive rechecked the trig wires, and they are all connected, and to the write spot. 
It cant be the coil or igntiter, because when i put the original dizzy and ecu in it works fine..
I do get a spark from the coil directly, but this is also not very consistent, just random.
I get a reading on the computer of the rpm, but just doesnt to be consistent spark.. So thats something to do with the G1...
Ive also tried the other G signal in the dizzy, as its a Smallport one with a 24/1 rotors, and to sensors, G1, G2.
Do the sensors have to be at a specific position.? Like when its at TDC does it need to have the sensor and rotor matched exactly.?
Any ideas.?
Much appreciated!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The sync tooth should be passing the pickup at approx 30deg before TDC #1

The rotor should be aligned with the HT tower for #1 or just a bit past.

Make sure the rotor and cap are in good shape along with the ht leads.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, well that makes sense, as when ive had spark it does only when it passes the pickup..

Well the Rotor is New, and ive got 2 caps that both look pretty good. 

And still am not getting consistent spark.

I tried it again this afternoon, and it would get a surge of spark after turning it over. And would make a arcing out sound from the dizzy, and the timing light on #1 would flicker riduculously.

But there is still no spark at ignition when turning it over. Only after...

Have i done something wrong.?
Are the dip switches correct.? On, off off On.

And got it running (kinda) once, but was like it was only running on 1 cylinder and would bog right down if i didn thave my foot on the gas...

Something must be quite off..

Just getting no-where with this..

(Also it seemed to be when i had the PC connected it wouldnt spark at all. Then disconnected PC and it would surge spark after turning over.)
Could the Link be broken.?
Or have issues. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One other thing to check is that the ECU is not resetting when cranking.

It will need to have a good 10 Volts + supply all the time while the engine is cranking.

Make sure you have both ground wires run all the way to the block not to the body.

Due to the age of the ECU the is a good chance something could have failed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well got it running today.! Finally.!

Ended up having to change where the leads were attached on the dizzy cap.
Went from 1,3,4,2 - 1 on 4, 3 on  2, 4 on 1, and 2 on 3.
Then got spark, and with a bit of encouragement it fired.

But here comes the problem..

When the laptop is attached via the serial link, the car then stalls. And doesnt start, with all spark eventually disappearing.
So i then turn the ECU off and disconnect the serial link, and then the car will fire. But when trying to start it with the laptop attached, it stalls.. 

Ive made sure that its not just reseting because of low battery power, etc.

 Also, should i have ballasters on the Injectors..?
Although They work correctly.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thing is when cranking, it takes a fare bit of throttle opening to actually get it to start and idle.

Is this due to the ignition and fueling table.??

And also when its idleing it sounds all ok, so rev it up a little, and it starts to bog, and then drops in rpm. Then revs back up again.

Is this also due to the ignition and fueling table.?? (as its just the built in base tune)


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Starting and running issues will be around the tune.

If the injectors measure less than 6ohms then you need ballast resistors.

What happens if you attach the serial link but leave laptop disconnected?


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really the Reload map with a master adjustment is normally enough to get an engine reving cleanly under no load.

The Serial link could be faulty or it could be an ECU issue. The Serial link will draw a little bit of extra current but should not be enough to stop the ECU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...