Mini Cooper R53 PNP - Best set up

[Adamw]

Yes it looks like you have Aux 1 on the expansion connector which is capable of PWM.

[Mini34]

Ok cars running pretty well, 201 atwkw and only 14 psi  

Track only car and since new engine with new tune i have quite a hestication on gear change, transition off and on throttle  

Understand this is accel pump where it goes super rich when i jump back on the gas   

 

Looking for ideas to try to fix this while at track as this problem cannot be solved on hub dyno  

 

Cheers

[Adamw]

Start with a log then either post it here or pass it on to your tuner to take a look.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

[Mini34]

I did turn logging on while at track so see what I have and will watch the instructional video.

 

Cheers

[Mini34]

Hey Adam

This page talks about PC logging, this is not possible as the problem happens on track so I am presuming ECU logging is the way to go?

[Adamw]

Yes the reason is with PC Logging it is unlimited memory and you can log all parameters.  With ECU logging you can only log 100 parameters an if you log all of those at full speed it will burn through the memory pretty quick.  As we dont know what is the cause of your problem we dont know which parameters to log so you may not capture the problem.  Can you not strap a laptop in somewhere?

[Mini34]

I could give it a go and see if scrutineering will let it happen.

This is what is sounds like

 

 

 

[Mini34]

Ok, car has been going good but have come across a problem I am not sure if it is ECU related more a mechanical issue.

So all of a sudden the car will not idle below 2,000 RPM when warmed up. Prior when cold it might have been a little erratic and idle high with some hunting but still below 2,000 RPM. Had the thought it might be a vacuum leak and this may still be the case but now the care goes straight to 4,000 RPM or more, I turned it off before causing myself more troubles.

As I say it could still be a vacuum leak but wondering if anything in the ECU / tune could cause this sort of problem?

I can confirm the DBW throttle plate is closed, as I removed the feed pipe to check.

Anyhow, if you have any ideas if the ECU / Tune could be doing this it would be appreciated.

I will pull things down to look for leaks, as it is difficult to fault find with an engine at 4,000 RPM.

 

Oh, the car drives on the track ok. It is not like a stuck throttle.

Cheers

Edited July 24, 2017 by Mini34

[Adamw]

Do us a PC log, attached that and your map here or sent it to tech support.  It is quite possibly an ECU setting such as base position/RPM lockout that is stopping the idle control from working when it is hot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Edited July 24, 2017 by Adamw

[Mini34]

Hey Adam

 

fyi does it from cold start now also, so not sure if that makes a difference. 

 

Is this his base position something that can change on its own?

 

the log is required while running?

 

just reluctant to stat and moment as 4,000 RPM warm up idle is not ideal but if it has to be done then it has to be done. 

[Mini34]

Emailed base map and logs to tech support

[Mini34]

Found the problem and it was a vacuum leak. A BIG Vacuum Leak!!!!! 

Some large cracks and pieces missing from a near new intercooler will do that.

 

Thanks for you help.

[AbbeyMS]

Is this the Mini Harrop used for some development on the Harrop TVS900 SC conversion?

[Mini34]

 

Just putting a new fuel system in and this will include a FlexFuel Sensor, so presuming this will require a digital input on the expansion cable?

Is this the Mini Harrop used for some development on the Harrop TVS900 SC conversion?

Yes

Edited September 2, 2017 by Mini34

[Adamw]

Just putting a new fuel system in and this will include a FlexFuel Sensor, so presuming this will require a digital input on the expansion cable?

Yes you have DI8 & DI9 on the Exp connector that can do ECS, or you could also use DI7 which is available on pin 9 of the OBD2 socket.

[Mini34]

Thanks Adam

Would any of the other spare old sensor wires work also i.e. either of the old narrow band 02 sensors, fuel vapor purge valve ETC. 

Either way I have the expansion cable as the fall back.

Cheers.

[Adamw]

You have DI7 sitting there all lonely with nothing to do, that would be my pick.

The only other one I see that may be spare would be DI2 which is labelled "cruise control pwm", on pin 54.

[Mini34]

Hi Adam

 

Ok, cant leave DI7 sitting all lonesome. I will use that.

Cheers

 

[Mini34]

Wasted a day at the track with constant TPS fault 75  

Tried to calibrate, didnt make any difference  

Tried to simulate in the car park but could get it to fault, so murphys law it happens within 200 metre of going on track  

No full throttle at by this stage on track, more like a constant 25% with light application with cold slicks.

I had this ince before at sandown but it ssems to clear itself eventually, plus i could reset without PC. Power off - on  but not this time  

 

Any ideas?

 

Thinking of changing tnrottle body but wanted to confirm this fault is totally related to throttle bodyy blade and sensors within?

 

Cheers

 

[Adamw]

Fault 75 means the throttle blade is not sitting at the commanded position for some period of time.  This could be caused by almost anything but I would say more likely a settings issue rather than hardware.

Next time you have any dramas like that I suggest you set up ECU logging to capture some relevant parameters.  In this case AP sub & main, TP sub and main, E-Throttle target, TP/target error accumulator, TP error accumulator and EThrottle motor DC would have probably given us a really good idea of where the problem lay.

 Can you do us a 1 or 2 minute log of you working the pedal/throttle - do a range of fast, slow, wot, partial throttle presses and holds at various openings.  Post it and your map so we can take a look if there are any clues.  You dont need to drive or even have engine running. 

You can change the "when stalled" setting to "run throttle" so that the throttle will work without engine running (you will have to put it into setup mode to change this setting but please but it back into "on" mode for the log).

[Mini34]

Thanks Adam, funny as it hasnt shown this problem for mkst the year  if a set up  

Just been on the dyno and obviously didnt see anything there and can drive in car park but the moment i set tyres on the track  BAMMMM limp mode  lol

I can run the car in the workshop and even run in gear on stands for logs if you like  

Ill look at it tomorrow  

 

Cheers

 

[Mini34]

Do i need the E-throttle ON set up mode - on or ON?

[Adamw]

Put it back to “ON” mode when you are doing the log.  

[Mini34]

For the logging have it on set up and when finished put in back to On?

[Adamw]

No, I want it set to “ON” mode for the log.  This is because in setup mode all errors are ignored so it may be more difficult to see what the ECU is not happy about.