Turbo Honda blackbird ecu

[interprodave]

Which would be the best choice of ecu to run and turbo charged honda black bird with the following :-

12 teeth on the crank 3 spikes on the cam 

4 injector ,4 ignition outputs 

Boost control   3 maps 

Launch control with 1 magnetic wheel speed input 

ALS with egr

Thanks Dave

[Simon]

How are the teeth spaced on the CAM?

The Monsoon would be the pick I think as that will have enough for what you are after. The next step would be the G4+ Storm.

 

 

[interprodave]

Hi ,

 thanks for the reply ,cam could be modified to `1 spike if necessary as we are refitting the standard cams  

[Simon]

A single tooth would be the easiest option on the cam as no special decoding required then.

[interprodave]

Thanks Simon,

 to simplify matters would it be better to have a missing tooth on the crank (12-1) and a single spike on cam and where would you suggest these are phased

Dave

Edited February 13, 2017 by interprodave

[Adamw]

Hi Dave,

I usually find missing tooth wheels to be less troublesome.  if you go to 12-1, you want the missing tooth to be near either 90°BTDC or 90°ATDC - it doesnt matter which.  The position of the cam tooth is not particularly important you just dont want it to occur at the same time as the missing tooth.

 

Edited February 14, 2017 by Adamw

[interprodave]

Thanks for the reply ,sorry for the slow response unfortunately the chassis was delayed .We are experiencing some trigger issues .The engine is fitted with VR cam and crank sensors but runs very rough and shows around 40 degrees of timing scatter also when checked the crank trigger we see a different pattern on our separate scope (please see attached images)

Will be grateful for any advise 

Dave

please find start up cal

nick start.pclr

[Simon]

Looking at your file you have the trigger 1 and 2 both set to Optical/Hall sensor type.

From the scope image these need to be set as Reluctor

In the second trigger scope the polarity of the crank signal is incorrect.

 

Edited July 10, 2017 by Simon

[Adamw]

In your post above you have two trigger scopes from a link ecu.  One shows a 36-1 wheel so I dont think that came from your bike.

The other one that shows the 12-1 pattern it shows trigger 1 has been wired with the wrong polarity.   Even though your cool old school "tv screen" shows it opposite I would believe the link trigger scope.

Can you post another triggerscope once you have changed the trigger settings as per Simon's post - I suspect you are going to have to swap wires on the crank sensor too.  

Edited July 11, 2017 by Adamw