MagicMike Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 Hi all, I am in the process of mapping out what I need to wire in to where for my application (Z32 with plug in g4+). While I do have 2 XS looms which should be enough for me, I am also trying to establish what factory pinouts are used, which ones are not used, and which ones are configurable. I have aligned the info in the link manual (and the descriptions provided in the software for the 300z basemap) with the factory pin functions, but there are some gaps I think. I have attached the lot, but mainly interested in these: EGR, AIV, FICD, PRVR. The ones below are not mentioned (and aren't plainly obvious like grounds/powers etc). PIN Link Manual/Help Desc from Link Basemap/Software or Nissan Data 47 Check Signal on Diagnostic 22 Diagnostics Send Data 21 Diagnostics Receive Data 8 AIV control solenoid valve 5 Signal to Automatic Transmission 102 EGR 56 Signal to Automatic Transmission 54 Throttle Valve Switch (idle position) 40 Signal to Automatic Transmission 37 AFM Orange Wire (Not Used) 33 F.I.C.D. Solenoid Valve (fast Idle control) 31 Diagnostic Clock 16 ECCS Relay Coil Ground 15 Signal to Automatic Transmission 14 Signal to Automatic Transmission 115 Oxygen Sensor Heater 111 PRVR What does the ecu do with these? Can I get control of them? Next, Aux - Inj 8 is tagged against 2 ECU PIN's, 19 and 6. Nissan says that 19 is the Rad Fan Relay and 6 is Rad Fan Sub Relay. Assume I have removed my fan and would like to use this driver for something else, which pin would I use? Next, I am interested in the fuel pump controls. PIN Link Manual/Help Desc from Link Basemap/Software or Nissan Data ??? 4 Aux - Inj 7 Fuel Pump Nissan says this is AAC valve 104 Aux 2 FP Control 1 35 Aux 5 FP Control 2 Nissan says FPCU 18 Aux 6 ISC Solenoid Nissan says Fuel Pump Relay Interestingly, Nissan says that PIN 4 is the AAC Valve? FPCU, PIN 18 is the fuel pump relay (Link says ISC Solenoid???) Have these been mixed up somewhere? PIN 35 and PIN 104 are for the FPCU. With my fuel setup, I have the FPCU replaced with a relay (still triggered by ECU) to control the in tank pump (full time full speed). I have my big external powered with direct battery power via a relay off the same signal as the in tank, but the pump has another speed control by PWM. I assume I can use either PIN 35 or 104 for this? Looking at some kind of PWM by injector duty relationship. Finally, silly question (if the others weren’t also). What is the function difference between a temp input and a volt input? Clean pinout list 300Z.xlsx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 (edited) Hi Mike,The top part of this query I will reply to via PM as some of it relating to how the plugin interacts may be privileged info. Next, Aux - Inj 8 is tagged against 2 ECU PIN's, 19 and 6. Nissan says that 19 is the Rad Fan Relay and 6 is Rad Fan Sub Relay. Assume I have removed my fan and would like to use this driver for something else, which pin would I use?For Inj8, it connects to both pin 19 & 6 directly so you can take your pick. Either will do exactly the same. Next, I am interested in the fuel pump controls.PINLink Manual/HelpDesc from Link Basemap/Software or Nissan Data???4Aux - Inj 7Fuel PumpNissan says this is AAC valve104Aux 2FP Control 1 35Aux 5FP Control 2Nissan says FPCU18Aux 6ISC SolenoidNissan says Fuel Pump Relay Interestingly, Nissan says that PIN 4 is the AAC Valve? FPCU, PIN 18 is the fuel pump relay (Link says ISC Solenoid???) Have these been mixed up somewhere?PIN 35 and PIN 104 are for the FPCU.With my fuel setup, I have the FPCU replaced with a relay (still triggered by ECU) to control the in tank pump (full time full speed). I have my big external powered with direct battery power via a relay off the same signal as the in tank, but the pump has another speed control by PWM. I assume I can use either PIN 35 or 104 for this? Looking at some kind of PWM by injector duty relationship. Some of that table above is wrong from the info I can see. If you tell me where you found it I will get it corrected so it doesnt confuse someone else in the future.Our schematic shows it like this:Inj7 = Pin 18Aux2 = Pin 104Aux5 = Pin 35Aux 6 = Pin 4Any of the Aux 1-8 can do PWM fuel pump control. Finally, silly question (if the others weren’t also). What is the function difference between a temp input and a volt input? They are very similar. The difference is a temp input has a pull-up resistor connected to 5V so that a resistance type sensor is converted to a voltage. You can use a AN Volt channel to measure temp if you connect an external pullup, but it is more difficult to do the reverse (use a Temp input as a volt input). Edited March 6, 2017 by Adamw grammar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted March 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 (edited) Thanks again for all the info Adam. Screens attached of help and software menus regarding FP cont etc. Assume they have just been mixed up somewhere along the line?Is it possible to know if there are any conditions etc applicable to any of these 4 being active? Only asking as the factory pump control does the prime etc. Edited March 6, 2017 by MagicMike clarification of reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 So I have another question about the flex sensor. I have read the info about wiring it in to a DI (1-8) etc. So I was looking at what is spare in the 300z basemap. Turned on DI5 and allocated ethanol sensor. Then I happened to notice the 'Ethanol Sensor' listed at the bottom of the DI list. Is this some kind of preconfigured input? If so, where do I wire my sensor if not (one of) DI5 to DI8 on the expansion looms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 It is not a preconfigured input. It is just a place for the settings that are specific to ethanol sensors (i.e normally DI's dont have fault settings etc). So you still need to set up a DI just as you have shown (except dont forget to turn the pull-up on!), then you can make further tweaks in the "ethanol sensor" settings menu item if required to make it behave they way you want. MagicMike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted March 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 Cool thanks mate. All this is purely theory for me at the moment. Have not yet connected the ECU to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 So got this fired up on the weekend, which was great. I have a couple of questions now. The attached trigger scope, normal looking? Seems pretty uniform, just the little variations at top and bottom of some that I am asking about. If not normal, possible causes? I have not tried adjusting the crank sensor placement and/orientation yet. Using a Cherry Hall sensor, and modified Cas for sync. I have circled some of the bits I am asking about in the screenshot.Next question is around fuel pumps again. I have Inj7 set as function 'Fuel Pump' and wired to trigger OEM FP Relay, whose output in turn triggers 2 relays (one for each pump) that give battery power to both in tank lift pump and external large fuelab pump. I have Aux 2 wired to the speed control input on the big external pump.I am seeking clarification on the fuel pump control settings, and which settings relate to which outputs.Is Inj7 prime, then on where engine speed > 0, and all the other options there relate to Aux 2 only? Trigger Scope Log 2017-04-25 11;42;33 am.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Pump Wiring, where Fuel Pump Control = Inj 7 Fuel Pump, and FP Speed = Aux 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Your trigger scope looks fine. When the triggers are set to hall mode the "switching point" is somewhere around 1-1.5V, so as long as your "teeth" are nice sharp vertical lines around the 1.5V height area it will work well.As for the fuel pump questions; the "prime time" setting will apply to both aux outputs, all of the other settings will only apply to the FP Speed aux out.So in your example shown, when you turn on the ignition, Aux 2 will switch "on" for 5 seconds with a duty cycle of 75%, Ign 7 will turn on (100% DC) for the same 5 seconds. Both will then turn off until the ECU sees RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Perfect. Thanks Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted June 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) Me again. Have now got the car running and idling well. Starting the tuning process.Something I would like advice on is how the factory knock sensor (donut style, single wire) functions with this plug in. I was kind of expecting it to just work and be able to see knock values (or engine noise), but i am yet to get any values to show.Was expecting to use the knockbox to listen/view and confirm what the factory sensor was feeding the ecu. Knockbox is up and working well too thanks Adam! Edited June 27, 2017 by MagicMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Put up your knocksettings Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted June 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Out of interest, I went back and checked the 300z base map and knock control is turned off, so I am not sure why I had it in my head that it would just work. At some stage I have turned it ON Knk Internal.So how do I set it up to use the factory sensor (PIN23/Knock 1)?Should it be KNK Internal I assume? I understand the windowing and lockouts. Aaaannd I think I have just found the answer. My gain channel is set to zero. I see now in the help file that a zero here disables the knock signal.I will try again and report back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 28, 2017 Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Aaaannd I think I have just found the answer. My gain channel is set to zero. I see now in the help file that a zero here disables the knock signal.I will try again and report back!You will also need to set up the individual cyl knock level gains and cyl allocations on the "cyl setup" page, so that all cylinders report a similar background noise level.HP Academy have quite a good webinar on tuning the G4+ Knock control system: https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/049-setting-up-knock-control-link-g4-vipec/You will need a ~$20 membership to view their webinars. MagicMike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted June 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2017 Yes I have watched that webinar a few times, and all the G4+ software tutorials, and the dyno and road tune G4+ worked examples. They do good stuff!Hopefully it was only that one little detail I missed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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