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Identify what can be done using OLD Link ECU


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I am interested if there is a way to interface to an old Link ECU with the following details, It has come up for sale but I am unsure if its just throwing money away if I buy it.

The details on the sticker of the cover are

Honda d42v4 090404

I assume it has a serial interface that is needed to communicate with a PC if that is actually possible at all too?

Any guidance would be appreciated

Thanks

 

Capture2.JPG

Forgot to mention planned on running a H22a in an EG civic off this if possible, all Naturally aspirated and minor mods.

Cheers

 

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Better to get an Atom or Monsoon if its a fresh install putting money and time in to a unit that old would be far better spent on a modern unit. The end result is so much better.

Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link it would do the H22a application.

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What is needed  to  communicate with this  G1 link Ecu then and is there any  way  to find  out  if it has been altered? 

Actually  a clean  install  is the  plan but maybe initially  while car is being  built  for  the  track I could  Jimmy  this up to get car semi mobile was the  thought. Doesn't have any serial cable adapter  with it either. ..

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To connect a pc to it you will need a "Serial Link": http://dealers.linkecu.com/SER  they are still available new and cost about $120 in NZ.

Note however these old G1's didnt have configurable trigger inputs - to allow them to work on different engines they needed a different "sub board" fitted.  It was quite common to change these over time, hence Simon's comment above "Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link".  So to confirm this you should open up the case and give us the numbers off the sub board or post a photo etc.  The sub board is the smaller PCB that sits above the main board, about 40mm square I guess.

So my suggestion is dont buy a serial link yet, confirm the sub-board is correct for your engine first.

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To connect a pc to it you will need a "Serial Link": http://dealers.linkecu.com/SER  they are still available new and cost about $120 in NZ.

Note however these old G1's didnt have configurable trigger inputs - to allow them to work on different engines they needed a different "sub board" fitted.  It was quite common to change these over time, hence Simon's comment above "Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link".  So to confirm this you should open up the case and give us the numbers off the sub board or post a photo etc.  The sub board is the smaller PCB that sits above the main board, about 40mm square I guess.

So my suggestion is dont buy a serial link yet, confirm the sub-board is correct for your engine first.

does these numbers mean anything 2004/02 s/n 005829 off the  daughter board? 

 

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Ok thanks 

Much appreciated.  So what pc software  will  communicate  with  it. I understand  that  I need a serial link  too. Is there Anything  else  needed? Great resource  this forum  especially with your timely  and  expert responses. 

 

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You will need a serial link and assuming your laptop doesn't have a genuine old school 9pin serial port you will also need a USB to serial adapter (computer store).

you will need pclink v2.5 available right down the bottom of the downloads page: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

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You will need a serial link and assuming your laptop doesn't have a genuine old school 9pin serial port you will also need a USB to serial adapter (computer store).

you will need pclink v2.5 available right down the bottom of the downloads page: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

whwhere can I find a wiring  diagram  for the  engine loom too please  

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Thankyou Adamw, the LEMv4 one was almost the only manual I hadn't downloaded , I suppose I was a little mislead/confused by naming conventions of the various versions and what applied to what.( somehow I thought LEMV4 was a later model) All sorted now, onwards and upwards. Thanks for your efforts with this slightly concussed and confused old fella...

 

 

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An LED test light on the input to the igniter will be handy when the ECU is turning on the coil the light should be on (voltage supplied to igniter) and then off for coil not charging. 

To test igniter if you put 5~12V on the input (disconnected from ECU) then release and you should get a spark. Only hold the voltage on for a very short time as too long and damage to the coil and or igniter can occur. 

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