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KA24DE no signal on trigger 1or 2


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I am having some major issues with my ecu and or cas. I have not been able to achieve any signal of any sort from my cas. I have checked the pin outs against the extreme wiring harnes, as well as the pinout for the cas. They match perfectly. I've tried switching the signal wires, it made no difference. I've also continuity tested the wires to make sure they are running to the ecu, and they are, to the proper locations.

i have an Aem 24-1 cas disk, I've tried about 30 times but unsuccessful in setting up 

i have tried the optical 360 setup now over 50 different times to no avail. This led me to purchasing a second distributor / cas that made no difference. The ecu cannot see a signal from either sensor.

i have tried plugging the spare sensor in, and rotating it by hand while viewing the traces and accidentally touched the bottom gear of the distributor to ground (intake manifold) and the iacv went insane and buzzed for ~5 seconds or so. This issue happens every time you Touch the gear to ground. 

The picture i atatched is the is the closest thing I could get for a signal from the cam sensor. I should add, I drove the car into the sip a year ago on that same sensor using an Aem v1. So I'm hesitating to suspect sensor failure.

Thank you in advance for any insight or advice! 

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I will take a look tomorrow. I've left the shop for the day. 

Is there any recommendations as to weather I use the factory Nissan cas disk or the Aem 24-1 disk? And which one would it be easier to setup with? 


Thank  you so much for your quick response!

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The 24 slot disks are usually less troublesome.  The Nissan 360 slot disks tend to be more prone to errors as the drive system gets older with more backlash etc and also can get easily upset from things like valve train harmonics due to bigger cams/valve springs etc.

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Thank you! 

If you don't mind my asking, is there a typical "starting point" for the 24-1 wheel, as far as trigger setting go? Any frequently overlooked settings I should look for? 

Thanks again

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This is very helpful! I read through all 5o+ pages of forum posts last night and found similar settings. I can't wait to get  to the shop to test them out. Thank you so much! I will reply with updated information!

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i am humbled to admit that upon further inspection, the wiring to the cas was inverted. now that i have fixed that, i have been able to achieve signal 1 and 2 and they are good clean signals, and i've also set the base timing - using the starter with the plugs removed 

is there a base map available to help me get this to start? the closest we have gotten was a few backfires. any help would be greatly appreciated.



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If it is backfiring that indicates it is sparking at the wrong time (i.e. your timing is out).  If it looks correct with a timing light then most likely you are firing at TDC on the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke.

Try adding or subtracting 360deg from your trigger offset (PC Link will only let you go one way depending on if you have a positive or negative offset currently).  You do this by opening up the "set base timing" screen enter the new offset and hit enter key before ok.

Edited by Adamw
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sadly, now we cannot get the motor to crank without having pclink losing connection while cranking. it is extremely frustrating.

 it can be confirmed that the ecu is getting power during cranking and solid ground.  however, this problem does seem to correlate with a hot starter. i'm not sure if that is relevant or not., but once the starter gets warm from repeated cranking, the ecu to laptop connection becomes much more fickle.

is there any base maps available, just to get the car idling. obviously not to be driven under load on. just to get the car to start and check for leaks. 


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this is a copy of what is in my ecu at the moment.

my car is equipped with a aem 5 bar map sensor 

aem wideband 

injector dynamics id1700s

gm ls2 truck ignition coils ( with the heat sinks ) 

aem 24-1 trigger disk 

it does also have an iacv - the factory pwm one

it also has a gm flex fuel sensor 

gm iat sensor


using this file, we were able to get the car to start and run for about 20 seconds or so before it died. it took alot of cranking to get the timing set etc. before we got to that point, and the starter was simply to hot to make a second try at starting the engine. 

do you see any major issues with why the motor would want to not start? one thing i belive i noticed, but cannot figure out how to change is the load axis on the timing map seems to not go lower than 0psi. 

thank you again for your incredible help! 


7_8_17 3.53pm - working triggers_ base timing set_fuel and ign active - running.pclr

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I dont see anything too major that will stop it from running in your map.  There are a few oversights that I have corrected in the attached a map but no show stoppers;  Precrank prime was set to "Start pos", yet you dont have a start DI, so I changed that to "key on".  LS2 coils dont like too much dwell so I have reduced all values in the table that were above 5ms.  You had both charge temp table and IAT correction table turned on - usually you use one or the other.  I have turned the charge temp table off for now since its more difficult to get right.

I would try again and see if you can keep it running for longer by adjusting the master fuel number up or down.


one thing i belive i noticed, but cannot figure out how to change is the load axis on the timing map seems to not go lower than 0psi. 


Your Ignition table load axis is set to MAP.  You can not go below 0 absolute pressure.   


precrnk_Dwell_charge temp_fixed.pclr

If you still cant get it right we will need to see a log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

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