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Land Rover V8 - injected 3.9


Stu
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Hi guys, anyone fitted a Link to one of these? 

It only has a two wire reluctor type pulse generator in the distributor for a crank sensor. Looks like the factory ECU picks up a trigger for the fuel map from the igniter module (at the coil negative) - ie no way to identify crank position in relation to number 1. 

Can this be used for the Link, or will it need a TDC sensor fitted to it? 

Cheers,

Stu

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Thanks Adam. Existing system uses a 6k ohm resistor coming off the neg side of the coil to trigger ECU inj map. I presume to control voltage spike. Should I keep that? Or am I better off ditching the dizzy and just fitting a trigger wheel. Also, I'd be better off with a MAP rather than the existing flap-type MAF right? What other changes would you recommend? Cheers.

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Thanks Adam. Existing system uses a 6k ohm resistor coming off the neg side of the coil to trigger ECU inj map. I presume to control voltage spike. Should I keep that? Or am I better off ditching the dizzy and just fitting a trigger wheel. Also, I'd be better off with a MAP rather than the existing flap-type MAF right? What other changes would you recommend? Cheers.

This is not an engine I know well but I just done a quick search.  It appears that the ignition system is completely standalone and the injection computer just got a basic RPM signal from the coil -ve. .  It has old school mechanical & vacuum advance in the distributor to control the timing. 

Upgrading this engine control can be done in many ways depending on your budget and what you want to achieve...  

My suggestion for a simple install would be to just lock the advance mechanism in the distributor to allow our ECU to control ignition and injection. You will generally get a good increase in torque and economy with a proper 3D mapped ignition so its worth the little extra work. 

The Link ECU will be connected directly to the trigger in the distributor and the coil will no longer be connected directly to the dist.  The coil will now be controlled by the ECU (you will need a different ignition amplifier to allow our ECU to drive the coil). 

Certainly get rid of the old flapper AFM and connect a MAP sensor (or use one of our ECU's with a builtin MAP), I suspect getting rid of that flapper will also net a decent power increase.  You will also no longer need the cold start injector and thermotime switch system as the ECU will now look after coldstart enrichment (simplifying wiring and less stuff to fail).  You will need to keep the standard "Extra Air Valve" set up for increased cold idle speed or change to a more modern solenoid type valve.

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