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Base timing


Will
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Having trouble with base timing setup with my sr20ve.  Follow the procedure in the help menu and have base timing bang on 5deg but im not to sure about the delay setting.  With the car running and set base timing window open car idles pretty good but as soon as I click done to shut window revs cycling up to 2200 then back down to1500. Ive tried changing the delay but it doesnt seem to make any odds.  I have no idle control valve on intake at all with my quad throttle body setup so should I be changing something else?

 

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Something must be asking for a big change in the ignition angle once you are out of the set base timing.

All the set base timing does is lock the ECU to a chosen value so all other trims and tables do not have an effect. Once this is done the ECU then returns to operating of the main ignition table and any active trims.

 

 

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Try this. Load this map.

Open the trigger calibrate widow. Click set base timing

Set ignition timing to 15 HIT ENTER, set delay to 40 HIT ENTER. Change offset until harmonic balancer reads 15deg HIT ENTER.

Leave window open and let water temp to come up, once at normal operating temp set idle screw so idle is just below target. Now hit done on base timing popup.

This map is using idle ignition table. Let me know how this goes.

Also any reason why your using MGP as a fuel Axis on a sr20ve? I would look and either MAP or TPS if you have poor map signal. Are you using a wideband to adjust the fuel table? 

start5 LINK HELP.pcl

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The best option is to get your timing light out and check it. A good trick on distributor application is to set up the ECU as direct spark so the coil only fires once in a 720 cycle and then just move offset to correct position.

This will ensure that you injection timing is correct even on a distributor application.

Edited by Simon
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I tried running that pcl but still had same issue.  I cant seem to get idle down below 1500 with my intake setup but I did get it running smoother rpm by adjusting the fuel main up to 17ms.  Could my fuel pressure be to high? Shall I just wait till Ive wired in wideband to try again? Will it be easier to diagnose if I get a log file of the car just idling?

Thanks for all help I'm obviously a in a bit over my head.

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I followed your instructions. Then repeated the process using 10deg not 15 which seems to go better. Then started changing master fuel and yes just guessing.

My only goal is to get the car running good enough to drive the 40kms into rotorua to get somebody who knows what there doing to tune it.  I didnt anticipate having this much trouble or realise just how little I know about how ECUs work. 

Really appreciate all the help and advice.

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