Help with monsoon wiring on a toyota glanza ep91 4efte engine

[zxesas]

Hi guys i need a bit of help on how to wire in ignition(distributor) on a 4efte, also what ground is shielded and what is not as the 4efte pinout has me a bit confused here.

Here is how i am going to wire things up, please correct me if i am wrong.

MONSOON TO 4EFTE

14+v to pin 7 connector3 switched battery (+B)

Ground to pin 26 connector 1 ecu ground (E01)

Ground to pin 13 connector 1 ecu ground (E02)

Trigger1 to pin 4 connector 1 crank angle (NE)

Trigger2 to pin 5 connector 1 cam angle (G1)

Sheilded ground to pin 24 connector 1 ecu ground (E1)

ANtemp1 to pin 3 connector 2 IAT 

ANtemp2 to pin 4 connector 2 water temp

Ignition1 to pin 22 connector 1 ignition timing (IGT)????

Injection1 to pin 12 connector 1 (injectors # 1&3) (#10)

Injection2 to pin 25 connector 1 (injectors # 2&4) (#20)

Tps will not be wired in yet as it's an OPEN/CLOSED type and the link manual says it does not support this type. I will add a vtps soon.

[cj]

It looks like the factory wiring is for batch fired injectors. If you run new wires to injectors 3 and 4 you can run it in sequential fire, otherwise 1-12 and 1-25 will fire 2 injectors each and you will have to use batch fire mode.

According to the wiring spec your TPS has an idle switch as well as a variable output. VCC (2-11) is probably 5vout so should connect to the link 5v out, and VTA (2-10 ) should be your variable TPS signal - connect to any analog input.

+B and +B1 are probably permanent battery feeds but check the rest of your diagrams as it does say switched. Likely you should use pin 3-2 (BATT) as your 14v feed which states its from the EFI relay. You dont need a permanent battery feed on a link.

I take it your not keeping AC?

You also want to wire pin 3-4 (FC) in as your fuel pump relay, or adjust the wiring so it turns on with the key if you have no outputs.

If you have free inputs also wire pin 1-2 (STA) in as a "Key in crank position" signal.

Optional but probably a good idea:

3-11 (SPD) to a digital input as a speed source

3-8 (W) as an output to your dash engine check light.

[zxesas]

Thank you Cj for you input but it's not really answearing my question on how to wire in ignition to give spark! We will be using for now the 4efte stock distributor and later go to COP. Should i wire Ignition 1 to pin 22 conector 1 igniton timing (IGT)? Is this correct?

Also is sheilded grounding  wired in correctly? 

Thanks will wire the tps as you mentioned.

Yes the car runs batch but will probably wire it up for sequential injection.

No we will not use AC it has been removed from the car.

 

 

[zxesas]

Anyone?

[zxesas]

Come on guys! Is there no one that can answer me?

[Adamw]

I can answer part of your question, - IGT should be connected to ign 1 on the ecu.

There is not really enough info to answer your other question about grounds without a schematic of the cars wiring.  Basically shields can be connected to sensor ground or the sheild ground pin but most importantly you need to ensure they are connected to ground only at one end.  

[zxesas]

1 hour ago, Adamw said:

I can answer part of your question, - IGT should be connected to ign 1 on the ecu.

There is not really enough info to answer your other question about grounds without a schematic of the cars wiring.  Basically shields can be connected to sensor ground or the sheild ground pin but most importantly you need to ensure they are connected to ground only at one end.  

Hope this helps you.

[cj]

According to that factory wiring, all the shielding on the crank/cam signal lines connects to the throttle body ground. As per AdamW above you should only connect sheilding to a single source so it looks like you leave this alone as far as ECU connections go. You could disconnect just the sheilding wires from the TB ground and connect it to the ECU's shield ground if you want but make sure its one or the other, and dont disconnect the whole TB ground bolt as its what your ECU uses as its ground connection.

After looking at the diagram a couple of my comments above need changing:

On an AUTO engine the VTA connection is throttle position but on a manual, its just idle and "not idle" as you initially suspected so you will need to run without TPS or replace it with the sensor off an auto (or an aftermarket TPS)

The 12v/14v wiring shows you should use pin 3-7 (+B) as your input to the ECU as this wire runs from the output of the EFI relay. - do NOT use the BATT line as I first suggested. this appears to run directly from a permanent battery feed so I have no idea why it says "EFI relay"on the description. The other +B line on 3-1 isnt even shown in the diagram.

There are also 2x vacuum solenoids marked "VSV boost" and "VSV TB ICV", and something marked boost control. One of "vsv boost" or "boost control" will be your boost control solenoid, but the one marked "boost control - BC" looks to be high side driven from the factory (ie the ecu outputs +12v to trigger it). You probably want this connected to a PWM controlled digital output on the link but these are only available as low side drive (ie they ground the output when active), so you will need to rewire that boost control solenoid so the EFI relay or another relay feeds it 12v constantly, and the ECU grounds the other side to control it. Hopefully you can figure out what these do by looking at what they are physically connected to as I cant tell from the diagram which of the 2x boost related systems is the one you wire up as boost control in the link ecu, or what TB ICV does. You may need to connect one or both of these to get the engine to work correctly but I'm not familar enough with these cars to tell you from the wiring diagram alone.