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3uzfe e throttle


BulletFactory

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I've attached 2 logs, both of them are with exactly the same settings as before where my PIDs are good and my SUB and MAIN tracking is as close as i can get it. 

First log; if i move through the pedal position quickly, the log doesn't seem to fault until i hold the pedal in a specific spot or move slowly through pedal travel

Second log; Holding the pedal straight to a specific point, then fault a second or two once in that position

Fault 77 appears

I still guess it's due to my SUB and MAIN not being within a tolerance of each other

 

 

e throtte ON fault.llg

e throttle ON fault2.llg

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UPDATE

I now have a working throttle when set to ON mode

Just to test, i took the TP main and AP main, and split them into my analog inputs respectively, so then i have the sub and mains reading exactly the same throughout their travel. I set my PIDS up to stop chatter (decreased proportional gain slightly) and now i can set to ON mode and have zero faults. I ran the engine and i now have a working throttle. It will not longer idle itself now, so i'm not sure whether this is because i have my closed voltages as such that the throttle valve is now too closed for idle, or whether this is something that can be tuned some other way?

SAFETY QUESTION: I presume sub and main are a sort of failsafe, so if there is any difference between them it will shut the throttle down to a closed state, will i be okay leaving my wiring as mentioned previous with no actual sub signal? If a fault should ever develop then i would imagine that it will still failsafe to a closed position?

 

I have attached a log with these changes made, one thing i notice on the log is that at around 10% accelerator input, the throttle body valve seems to click and flatline, and then continue with smooth increase, which is where i'm thinking it's ON resting position should be? I tried to capture this in the log itself

 

ON mode working throttle.llg

3UZ WORKING THROTTLE.pclr

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11 hours ago, BulletFactory said:

It will not longer idle itself now, so i'm not sure whether this is because i have my closed voltages as such that the throttle valve is now too closed for idle, or whether this is something that can be tuned some other way?

Two things in your set up are not quite right.  Normally the top row of your E-throttle target table would not have zeros, but instead a small opening closer to what the engine needs to idle.  1.5-2% would be common.

You also need to change your Idle speed control to one of the E-throttle control modes so then you get a base position table to command Throttle at idle.

 

11 hours ago, BulletFactory said:

SAFETY QUESTION: I presume sub and main are a sort of failsafe, so if there is any difference between them it will shut the throttle down to a closed state, will i be okay leaving my wiring as mentioned previous with no actual sub signal? If a fault should ever develop then i would imagine that it will still failsafe to a closed position?

Correct, there are still plenty of safeties but you are throwing one out the window.  As a bare minimum I would ensure the error settings on both analog inputs are set up with a reasonably small tolerance over normal voltages so it catches any changes early.

 

11 hours ago, BulletFactory said:

I have attached a log with these changes made, one thing i notice on the log is that at around 10% accelerator input, the throttle body valve seems to click and flatline, and then continue with smooth increase, which is where i'm thinking it's ON resting position should be? I tried to capture this in the log itself

How you have it working now is correct (it must be able to drive fully closed).  Changing the target table as mentioned above will help reduce some of this effect and you might still need to experiment with PID a little more if it is still not right. 

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