George GEP Posted December 2, 2017 Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 OK so basically car is running great except throttle issue time to time it gets in limp mode, i have to restart car (shut down completely and start again) to make throttle work also i have noticed that throttle works only in Setup mode and never in ON mode.... i had same issue with other BMW M54B30 as well on stock throttle please kindly see log, screenshot and flash itself attached here and share your opinion log is recorded to show what happens when i switch from setup mode to ON... nothing else. i have calibrated throttle several times but result is all same thanks in advance throttle-error.llg throttle-test.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2017 here is second log and tune file with different settings i changed throttle MAIN and SUB on inputs , recalibrated settings and ran it... please kindly see log file where throttle goes OFF itself after some time. you can see it when rpm goes as low as 650ish... please suggest what to look for throttle-test-2.pclr throttle-went-off.llg in this picture throttle is off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 3, 2017 Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 Your Throttle position sensors arent calibrated correctly, TP sub reads 2% at idle, TP main reads 18%. Both should read the same at all times. 18% seems escessive for idle so I suspect it is TP main calibration that is incorrect. Your PID is poorly tuned causing an unstable oscillation so that need to be fixed also. In the last log It appears this oscillation over-heats the E-throttle hardware and shuts it down. Our E-throttle hardware is really a bit too weak for the S54 so we generally advise it is not compatible. However some users do report good success, usually, you will need to remove at least half of the springs from the system, all of the mechanical parts need to be in good condition, free and well lubricated and the PID loop needs to be finely tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 i do calibrate automatically as instructed, how can i calibrate it else it is always like that no matter how i may times i do calibration it does same thing... any hints suggestions for it as well as PID ? i will remove springs but will that change TP Main and sub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integrale8v Posted December 3, 2017 Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 The S54 is a bit tricky to calibrate due to the linkages between the throttle motor and the throttle body. You cant use the automatic becuase of this. The way I do it: Main TPS should be the one on the throttle body. first with the motor not running, start logging in Pclink and just push the throttle body to full open. That way you get both max and min voltages for the both TPS. Input these voltages manually in the settings. Now you can start the engine but leave the E-trhottle in Setup mode. The main TPS (on the throttle body) will be ok now, but to get the correct voltage for the Sub tps (on the motor) You must give full throttle with the e-throttle and read out what the voltages are now. And on idle as well for the closed voltage. Input these in the setting and it should work i normal mode also. Here is a pic of my PID settings. I have 2 or 3 springs installed. TechDave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 3 minutes ago, integrale8v said: The S54 is a bit tricky to calibrate due to the linkages between the throttle motor and the throttle body. You cant use the automatic becuase of this. The way I do it: Main TPS should be the one on the throttle body. first with the motor not running, start logging in Pclink and just push the throttle body to full open. That way you get both max and min voltages for the both TPS. Input these voltages manually in the settings. Now you can start the engine but leave the E-trhottle in Setup mode. The main TPS (on the throttle body) will be ok now, but to get the correct voltage for the Sub tps (on the motor) You must give full throttle with the e-throttle and read out what the voltages are now. And on idle as well for the closed voltage. Input these in the setting and it should work i normal mode also. Here is a pic of my PID settings. I have 2 or 3 springs installed. Thank you very much i will give it try and post results can i try this on stock springs Yet? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integrale8v Posted December 3, 2017 Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 Yes you can do this with all springs also, but if you get the overheating error you must remove springs. On this engine I ran it for a long time with all 6 springs without problems, I just removed them because I have had problems on other S54s. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2017 Just now, integrale8v said: Yes you can do this with all springs also, but if you get the overheating error you must remove springs. On this engine I ran it for a long time with all 6 springs without problems, I just removed them because I have had problems on other S54s. cheers thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 Ok so i adjusted settings as per instructed above removed 4 or 5 springs from throttles to make it easy as possible Now i'm facing really weird problem throttle is jumping up and down open / close itself... tried to calibrate automatically or manually it still does same thing from time to time... i have logged that event so please kindly see log and tune file. thanks in advance WTF-THROTTLE.llg WTF-THROTTLE-MAP.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integrale8v Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 The PID was not as I sent in the picture. The jumping up/down was due to this. Here is a editet map. I set down the P a bit just in case. This may cause slow reaction but best to start with it low and raise it. WTF-THROTTLE-MAP2.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 12 hours ago, integrale8v said: The PID was not as I sent in the picture. The jumping up/down was due to this. Here is a editet map. I set down the P a bit just in case. This may cause slow reaction but best to start with it low and raise it. WTF-THROTTLE-MAP2.pclr i mean i tried that settings, tried to play with it as well - no difference still jumping up and down itself... no matter what... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integrale8v Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 This is just PID and tps calibration issues. What TPS is the main? The throttlebody TPS must be set up as main. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 OK here is log and file with exact your settings it didnt fluctuate now but did give error code when i set from setup mode to ON cold-start-throttle-off.llg cold-start-throttle-off.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 Your tracking for TPS main now looks ok (at least up to ~4% as shown in your log), The tps sub signal looks like its calibrated wrong. I can see the voltage at what I assume is closed throttle is nearly 1v higher than what you have configured. Leave the PID's as they are now as the look good enough to start with, and run through the "manual" tps calibration again as suggested by integrale8v above. Be sure to log the 2x AN volt channels that are connected to tps main and tps sub and set the min/max values for each channel as seen in the log. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 Try chaning TPS sub closed to 4.31v , I think you've accidentally copied the max value from TPS main Also in your screenshot the second graph shows TPS sub and its voltage side by side, but the top graph show TPS % but APS voltage. Be careful not to use these voltage for TPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 First file was mistake there was AP main instead of TP Main here is correct one so looks like i need to enter 4.1 in TPS Sub closed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 A few question in regards to your map Your dead time table has a Y axis of MAP and adding more at higher load? Your battery voltage from the log looks like it takes 10 sec to reach normal voltage. Your AFR changes a bit during this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George GEP Posted December 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 8 minutes ago, Ducie54 said: A few question in regards to your map Your dead time table has a Y axis of MAP and adding more at higher load? Your battery voltage from the log looks like it takes 10 sec to reach normal voltage. Your AFR changes a bit during this. this is not completed tune file, im trying to figure out throttle issues before i will go for full adjustments Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattias Sandgren Posted June 21, 2018 Report Share Posted June 21, 2018 I just like to add that I had throttle sticking issues with the S54 with a Link Fury. At low opening (1-2%) it hung a bit and would overshoot once it moved, and removing half the springs solved the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orangeute338 Posted April 10, 2020 Report Share Posted April 10, 2020 sorry to dig up a old post but googled it and this came up, just wondering if anyone has used a solid rod instead of the spring loaded one between the actuator and the main throttle shaft? I have a custom setup on a 4ltr ford motor and want to run the bmw actuator to control them. I have brought a factory throttle rod but I have already got a bracket made to mount the motor and a solid rod just wondered if that would work or it needs the spring loaded one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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