Adamw Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 Attach your tune, xml and realdash file. What is the lambda device? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 Hello Adam, Thank you very much, I did a few videos about the issue : part 2 : checking errors part 3 : testing by removing the lambda same error Please tell me if you need anything else Thank you very much CANnotworkinglog.llgx basemap74.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 It would be worth updating the ecu firmware since yours is quite old, although I dont remember any significant CAN bugs in 6.18. Otherwise im going to say it appears to be an issue with the OBDlink device or a bus issue. When you click apply the ecu will start spewing out data - but if the transmit error counter reaches 255 the ecu will stop sending data. This is why it freezes. When you click apply the bus error will temporarily go back to zero and start sending data again. Can you do a drawing of how the bus is wired including lengths etc and where your terminating resistor is fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 Thank you for the reply, I'll go updating the firmwire and tell you how it went This is my wiring, I used two NZEFI cables, and I made sure not to mix the can+/can- altogether, but I can check once again maybe ? Could that cause the issue ? Wire is 1m, and I think I have a termination resistor 120ohm on the long end where my OBD2 is plugged in OBD2 is wired as such with CAN high/low, ground and 12v being the ones from above. My 12v is switched input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 5 minutes ago, LeNainCapable said: I think I have a termination resistor 120ohm on the long end where my OBD2 is plugged in It would pay to unplug that extension cable at both ends and measure resistance between CAN H/L to confirm there is a resistor fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 Just updated the firmwire --> same issue Is it fine to have one or none ? Would too high of a resistance would cause errors ? I am unsure of which of my components have one ECU --> UEGO X --> [termination resistor of wiring] --> OBDLink My invoice from NZEFI is showing Termination Resistor:required so it's safe to assume they gave me one with one, I'll check tomorrow along with correct pins on wiring I'm unfortunately not yet to the point of soldering resistors so I can't be of much help. Splitting / joining wiring and doing clean terminals is fine though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 18 minutes ago, LeNainCapable said: My invoice from NZEFI is showing Termination Resistor:required so it's safe to assume they gave me one with one, I'll check tomorrow along with correct pins on wiring Dont assume. The wiring is ok as nothing would work if H/L was swapped. You need a resistor at both ends of the bus. The ECU has one built-in so you need another at the far end. The Gauge and the OBD dongle dont have one built in as they are designed to be attached to an already properly terminated bus. I doubt it is your problem but needs to be confirmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 alright so I have 120ohm average (between 90 and 150) on the OBD2 side when powered up and data flowing, and 60ohm when powered off, removing OBD2 doesn't fix the errors of DASH2PRO transmission everything still flashes red I'll remove dash tomorrow and check the cable itself. What would the next step be ? Assuming I have a resistor on the longer end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 24, 2021 Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 Today I checked the wire from NZEFI and I indeed have 120 ohm resistance between can low and can high, I've pressed the heatwrap and I can feel the bump of the resistor at the end I removed some of the heatshrink-like sleeve to inspect wiring : no issues there either (it was cramped under the seat so I thought maybe some wiring is damaged but nope). Then I tried all combinations : always these same errors... I don't get it... Is there a way to just bypass the error count and let it rip ? Because I mean... Lambda I recieve, and obdlink too works when the ecu sends data, it just shouldn't stop Thank you very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 What ECU do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 I have a jzx100x plug and play ecu, the v1 where the can1 isn't wired but can2 is fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 Ok, I think that will be the problem as CAN 2 is still connected to the Toyota multiplex at 1Mbit. Can you disconnect the lambda and reconfigure the ECU and and realdash for 1mbit as a test to see if errors disappear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 Hi Adam, That seems to be like it! I've tried just setting it back to oem (1mb, the ect string on 11000 bus) and errors stop, as soon as I go back to 500mbps it starts flashing red. My obdlink does not support 1mbps. Do you think I can try to just remove the oem pin from ecu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 Update : removed THW0 pin (pin 96 on linkecu help) from ecu (pinout states it's used to send ect data to a/c unit) still got the red flashing and unable to transmit dash2pro, back with config of 500kbps on network, uego still reads properly. Do I need to deactivate a 2nd pin that isn't mentioned? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 15 minutes ago, LeNainCapable said: removed THW0 pin (pin 96 on linkecu help) from ecu (pinout states it's used to send ect data to a/c unit) The THWO wire isn't CAN based but it comes from a chip on the plugin that the ECU talks to over CAN so you can't disconnect CAN 2 on a JZX100 board without removing components and you can't use it for anything other than the intended purpose without serious modification. Also pretty sure that the TWHO pin controls your dash temperature gauge too. Do not screw around with CAN 2 on a JZX100 plugin ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeNainCapable Posted August 25, 2021 Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 Well my CAN 1 doesn't work as I have rev.1, does that mean I have to send my board back in order to use CAN1 because I can't use CAN2 ? I mean, my UEGO works fine, and even the dash works fine for the first few secs, it's just that errors are polluting the feed it seems then, no other way to remove the error limit and let it do as it wants ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2021 17 minutes ago, LeNainCapable said: no other way to remove the error limit and let it do as it wants ? No, the error handling is part of the CAN specification and is hardcoded into the CAN controller IC's. We have no control over that. I suggest you contact [email protected], it will likely have to come back to us to be hand modified. As far as I know the revised boards with CAN1 socket still arent finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdniss Posted September 5, 2021 Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 On 4/26/2020 at 11:31 AM, DomsE36Garage said: ..I have an AEM Wideband hooked in ANVolt 4 (through an expansion loom - Expansion 6) but I can't get either of them to display on the dash. I modified the AFR input on the gauge on the lower left to point to ANVolt 4 but it just stays at "16" the whole time. Any help is appreciated. @DomsE36Garage - probably a year late - however I had a similar issue where an AEM UEGO was displaying a value of "12" in RealDash. Turns out the default multiplier for my assigned "AN Volt 1" UEGO Wideband channel was configured at "1.0" in RealDash. As per the Long Datastream info in the PC Link Manual, applying a default multiplier of 0.1 within RealDash got it much closer, then the channel needed an offset calculation applied (via trial and error) within RealDash - to reflect the AFR output I was seeing on the gauge.- Though the offset could be in correlation to the PC Link software where I was required to modify the Lambda values for the AEM UEGO Cal Table so that PC Link would correctly mimic the gauge readout in the first place.. rather than a RealDash offset config problem.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingdongdrift Posted September 15, 2021 Report Share Posted September 15, 2021 has anyone gotten this specific analyzer to work on android? i see USB Serial, i import the XML file but still nothing showing up. tried 2 different android devices (Oneplus 6T, LG G5). i ordered another OTG cable that people here have said worked for them so when that arrives i'll have something else to try. i tried an app that is able to read raw can data from the device and i'm seeing stuff come through so basically it's just realdash not working. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000925486786.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.73e84c4dPY5ahr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikau Posted December 26, 2021 Report Share Posted December 26, 2021 Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, With the free time off work I've had time to start playing with Realdash more and have run into a bump with getting gear input to display properly. I'm currently using the DASH2PRO preset on the Link side of things and then I have the "Gear" on Realdash set to "Specific ECU Input" -> "Gear Shifter Position." Now in PCLink I can see all gear inputs correctly as 1-7, although on the Realdash side I'm only seeing "R" no matter what gear I might have the car in. Edit: Although this might be more on the RealDash side I’ve had zero luck registering an account. Currently still waiting on support/admins to activate my account. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikau Posted January 9, 2022 Report Share Posted January 9, 2022 On 12/26/2021 at 1:57 PM, Mikau said: Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, With the free time off work I've had time to start playing with Realdash more and have run into a bump with getting gear input to display properly. I'm currently using the DASH2PRO preset on the Link side of things and then I have the "Gear" on Realdash set to "Specific ECU Input" -> "Gear Shifter Position." Now in PCLink I can see all gear inputs correctly as 1-7, although on the Realdash side I'm only seeing "R" no matter what gear I might have the car in. Edit: Although this might be more on the RealDash side I’ve had zero luck registering an account. Currently still waiting on support/admins to activate my account. Solved. While setting up my custom layout in Realdash I selected the previously mentioned "Specific ECU Input -> Gear Shifter Position" this was incorrect and so was "Transmission -> Gear." The correct Gear Input in the Link preset was under "Body Electronics -> Gear." Link2ThePast 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRambo Posted January 25, 2022 Report Share Posted January 25, 2022 Just fired this up and connected to my G4 PnP GTRLink. Thanks for making it work for the older G4. Now to play with the datalogging to see if I can use the GPS to draw a track map with the Link data. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Roodenrys Posted January 31, 2022 Report Share Posted January 31, 2022 (edited) Hi, wondering if anyone can help. New here and trying to master G4X PnP into Realdash (Android headunit) via Seed CAN Analyser. It is working well, but i am stuck on trying to stream the Ethanol % into Realdash. Attached are my settings in PCLink, my dashboard and the .xml file I have been tinkering with. I can now select 'Link: Ethanol percentage' from the 'ECU Specific' menu in Realdash, but the gauge is just showing a value of 100, and should be around 80... EDIT: Problem solved, just had to change the byte order from LS first to MS first Cheers Link with DI receive V3.5.xml 30-01-22 DATA ENGINEERS DREAM.rd Edited January 31, 2022 by Andre Roodenrys Udated with fix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindfreakattack Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 Hi... may i ask if the speed is supposed to be working on a Link G4+ ECU (Honda B16) connectes via USB OTG cable to my andriod device. I switched between ECU speed, GPS and TCU speed.all didnt seems to show any form of numbers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 The first 6 DI speeds are sent in the datastream. You will likely find these in the "ECU Specific" category. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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