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Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows


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9 hours ago, Monsterbishi said:

The most common one I come across is that once you've got the ecu re-configured you need to power cycle the ecu, ie pull it's fuse - a normal key off power cycle won't do the job.

Failing that, find a Android device that it works with then use those settings on the Windows version of realdash.

Yea, I only tried a key off cycle. I have a hi-amp circuit breaker for my battery, so i'll just use that to shut down the whole system and try again.

6 hours ago, Adamw said:

If you put PC Link on your tablet, does that connect ok?    The most common problem I see is junk USB OTG adapters that dont work, so connecting to PC Link will be an easy way to confirm that.

Yup PC link works no problem. Everything stores just fine and that's how I was able to change baud rates to match. I'll try the above and report back. 

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Hi All, The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's.  It is now compatible. For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http:

I had time to play with this today.  It looks like you can make it work as is.  In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data

Here you go:  https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPn3zpsxhdV-DI1p5D

Posted Images

Reporting back. Disconnecting the battery did the trick. 

Have two more issues that just came up though.

1. One of the gauges I built is static and wont move. Even when I copy past a working gauge then change the input it always shows the max value. PID = Engine Oil Pressure. 

2. AFR is not displaying. I'm assuming this has to be enabled in PC link?

Thanks for your help guys.

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/1/2020 at 7:23 AM, Funwithmonkeys said:

I have read through this post and realdash sounds like a good solution. Is it able to be used with the Atom II yet or is it still in the works?

Yes it works with the Atom.

 

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So after reading this im going to attempt to connect to my samsung galaxy s10 over easter but i have a couple of questions.

Will adjusting the baud rate affect communications with my pc when i plug it in? Will i need to change it back every time i want to use my pc to setup up an ecu log?

Just out of curiosity, why cant i use the can1/rs232 or the can2/obd plugs to connect to my phone?

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1 hour ago, Stower93 said:

Will adjusting the baud rate affect communications with my pc when i plug it in? Will i need to change it back every time i want to use my pc to setup up an ecu log?

No, the baud rate setting only relates to the broadcast data, not PC comms.

1 hour ago, Stower93 said:

Just out of curiosity, why cant i use the can1/rs232 or the can2/obd plugs to connect to my phone?

I dont know of any smart phones than have an RS232 or CAN port?  Most have a USB port though, which is why the recommended connection is USB.

You can use OBD2 if you buy a 3rd party OBD2 wifi or bluetooth dongle, but the OBD2 protocol is much slower than the direct USB/serial.

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So i couldnt just come out of either port with a CANPCB cable and then connect that to a CUSB cable and into my otg adapter? Sorry of this is a stupid question, im still getting my head around the whole CAN stuff and im wanting to learn as much as i can about it.

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On 4/9/2020 at 2:37 PM, orlando bello said:

Any delays when using Link ECU. By bluetooth or USB cable.??

Usb, no delay.  Bluetooth serial adapter, no delay.  Bluetooth via OBD2 adapter I would say noticable delay.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi

I am having no luck getting this running.

I am running a G4+ Atom and trying to connect to a Samsung galaxy s9 via a new usb cable and a new usb to usb C OTG adapter.  I have tried the initial baud rate to 38400 and 57600 but  I do not have the datastream mode option. in the ECU settings my baud rate is set to the corresponding to the initial both times.  I have power cycled the ecu by both key and pulling the relay.

I get to the menu on my app where I pick Link, then serial connection but then there it does not see my ecu.

Is there something obvious I am missing as I have trawled the 7 page thread.

Thanks :)

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On 4/21/2020 at 11:53 PM, Jono said:

Hi

I am having no luck getting this running.

I am running a G4+ Atom and trying to connect to a Samsung galaxy s9 via a new usb cable and a new usb to usb C OTG adapter.  I have tried the initial baud rate to 38400 and 57600 but  I do not have the datastream mode option. in the ECU settings my baud rate is set to the corresponding to the initial both times.  I have power cycled the ecu by both key and pulling the relay.

I get to the menu on my app where I pick Link, then serial connection but then there it does not see my ecu.

Is there something obvious I am missing as I have trawled the 7 page thread.

Thanks :)

Check you are on the latest version - just released 2 or 3 days ago.  Apparently a recent update had broken the USB driver and they have just fixed it.  

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Hey Adam, I finally decided to give RealDash a crack and purchased the full version etc. I'm running the Link G4+ pnp for my Turbo E36 and i've got a Samsung Galaxy Tab E Lite that i've installed real dash on.

I set up the ECU connections as per the pdf document, saved and power cycled the ECU (i think - turned off the car and turned it back on, even disconnected the battery for 30 seconds and reconnected it), but when I go to add the ECU to Real Dash i get stuck at the 'serial port' screen as you can see in the picture. The dots keep blinking and it doesn't pick anything up. 

I have a Gadget Geeks Y shaped OTG cable and have tried both outputs on that to no avail, and I also used the standard USB charging cable for the tablet which also didn't pick anything up. It might be an issue with the OTG cable but it's brand new and I note one of the other members on the forum here is using the same OTG cable in his setup which works.

But have you got any idea if I might be going wrong somewhere with my setup? Literally USB cable straight from the Link ECU, straight into the OTG or std charging cable and into the tablet....no good. Just looking for ideas and also have another OTG cable on the way from another place so can see if that works too but not confident. The Tablet is OTG friendly (i downloaded the OTG app and it passed).

Cheers,
Dom

 

EDIT - I just saw your post above (to Jono - seems like a nearly identical issue) and I've got the new version of Realdash which was uploaded on the 18th April...no new updates available.

20200423_172053.jpg

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Cheers mate, I do believe it was a cable issue now.  I managed to get the OTG cable to work and hooked the tablet into my Link ECU with no issues. For some reason my tablet had to think about things overnight before it decided it liked the OTG cable i had haha.

I threw a USB stick into the OTG cable and bam she picked it up, then wen't out and plugged the OTG back into the Link and RealDash picked it up straight away. Only issue i have now is the Y shaped cable i have won't charge the device while it's running, so i'll need to make sure the tablet is charged up before every race meet for the time being, unless someone has a workaround.

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I'm just running mine off its battery for the moment but will eventually run it through a OTG setup, I'm just going to make my own - a OTG cable is nothing special, it's 4 wires, two for data, two for power with the power negative tied into the sensing pin at the device end.

It means I can use some decent cable that will stand up to vibration better than one made in a factory for 5c.

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7 hours ago, Monsterbishi said:

I'm just running mine off its battery for the moment but will eventually run it through a OTG setup, I'm just going to make my own - a OTG cable is nothing special, it's 4 wires, two for data, two for power with the power negative tied into the sensing pin at the device end.

It means I can use some decent cable that will stand up to vibration better than one made in a factory for 5c.

Be keen to see some pics and instructions once you make it and i'll give it a crack myself! I found an OTG adaptor thats meant to do charging and data for $7 on ebay, so i'll give it a try too. Problem is it's a little block, not a cable one so may add a little stress to the MicroUSB port on the tablet, but will see.

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Hey guys, i'm working on configuring the dash fully, but am having issues setting up a boost gauge (PSI) and AFR gauge. I'm running the Link G4 Pnp for M50B25TU and I have a boost solenoid configured to hook into IGN 8 + a manual boost gauge, and I have an AEM Wideband hooked in ANVolt 4 (through an expansion loom - Expansion 6) but I can't get either of them to display on the dash. I modified the AFR input on the gauge on the lower left to point to ANVolt 4 but it just stays at "16" the whole time.

Any help is appreciated.

20200425_144120.jpg

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2 minutes ago, kirchoff said:

hi i am having troubles with this app and new g4x, i have download last version on g4+ it conenct ok but on g4x app say serial device not supported.

Have i to change sth on pclink?

Go back to the first post and download the PDF. Have a read of that which tells you how to set up PCLink and your device. I had issues connected because my tablet wasn't picking up the USB cable properly, so you could have an issue with your OTG cable.

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There is no serial output on the G4X so the only way to use realdash with G4x at present is via obd2.  I’m testing a CAN bus connection for them soon but still waiting on the hardware to arrive.

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