Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows

[Funwithmonkeys]

I have been using the realdash for about a month now and I love it except for the fact that I cannot have it connected and charge it at the same time. None of the OTG cables I have tried work and from what I have read you cannot use bluetooth with the Atom ecu. Is the only way to wire power directly into the tablet?

[Adamw]

1 hour ago, Funwithmonkeys said:

I have been using the realdash for about a month now and I love it except for the fact that I cannot have it connected and charge it at the same time. None of the OTG cables I have tried work and from what I have read you cannot use bluetooth with the Atom ecu. Is the only way to wire power directly into the tablet?

The ability to charge and transfer data at the same time is highly dependent on the tablet, some can do it some cant, most that can do it need some sort of specific adapter.  The reason is when an OTG cable is plugged in to the USB port it is negotiated to be a "Host".  A host USB port is meant to be supplying power to the USB device (i.e something like a USB mouse or keyboard or webcam needs power from the USB port).  In client or charging mode many of them use the data pins to identify the type of charger connected so they cannot be used for data.

[DomsE36Garage]

So far I've tried 3 OTG cables/adaptors with no luck in charging my Samsung tablet so I think it's going to be very hit and miss. I've watched a few video's about making your own OTG cables which might work but again not guaranteed and you need to be pretty good with electronics and soldering small stuff to give it a crack.

At least for me, I only use the dash on my race car so could probably get away with a single charge for a single day of racing, however on a daily driver it'd be a pain and you'd end up spending a few hundred in finding the right adaptor to work with your device.

[SchuKingR]

On 5/2/2020 at 12:07 PM, Adamw said:

I’m testing a CAN bus connection for them soon but still waiting on the hardware to arrive.

Any updates on this? I tried to work it out myself, but I think I'm too dumb for this

[Adamw]

3 hours ago, SchuKingR said:

Any updates on this? I tried to work it out myself, but I think I'm too dumb for this

No the recommended CAN USB dongle hasnt arrived yet.  It will likely be awhile as there seem to be big delays on most of the cheap Chinese shipping methods reaching NZ for the last few months.

[SchuKingR]

Tried things out today. Doesn't work, but I don't know why. Although you don't have the dongle yet, can you please take a look over my CAN settings and my xml file? Maybe you can find out whats wrong.
Realdash recognise the CAN streams, but doesn't show the readings...

When I go to realdash CAN monitor and try to take a look at TPS Main (last stream, last 2 bytes). At full throttle the value is at 58883. Shouldn't it be at 1000 according to the Link CAN test calculator?
I attached my PCLink CAN settings as well as my xml file.

G4+ Thunder_CAN_realdash.pclr LinkECU_mehrstream.xml

[Adamw]

I didnt look at your .xml yet, but attached is one that realdash done for me to try.  This is for the pre-configured "Generic Dash 2" (same as Dash2pro) stream sent on ID1000.  If this works then you can compare how it is formatted compared to yours.

link_ecu_short.xml

[SchuKingR]

Found it!!! You only need to delete "<frames baseId="1520"> and only write "<frames>" in my xml file. Then it works perfectly Thanks @Adamw! Your hint was the little thing, that pointed me in the right direction.

[Mario Schneiderbanger]

13 hours ago, SchuKingR said:

Found it!!! You only need to delete "<frames baseId="1520"> and only write "<frames>" in my xml file. Then it works perfectly Thanks @Adamw! Your hint was the little thing, that pointed me in the right direction.

soooo how did you make this work because I see it displays lambda  

[SchuKingR]

1 hour ago, Mario Schneiderbanger said:

soooo how did you make this work because I see it displays lambda  

just download my files from the post above and then swap out the "<frames...>" for the "<frames>" and you are good to go. I can't explain it to you more, because it's not very easy for me to describe something complex like this 1. by text and 2. in english. But it's simple, just try to read my xml file and look at the pcl CAN settings and try to understand

[Armand]

I would also like to know how you got this working on a double din. I have the g4 extreme and was also looking for a double din to display vitals.

[SchuKingR]

On 5/25/2020 at 8:50 AM, Armand said:

I would also like to know how you got this working on a double din. I have the g4 extreme and was also looking for a double din to display vitals.

got a cheap android 9 double din. so I only downloaded realdash on it and plugged the Link USB cable straight into my double din

[Mario Schneiderbanger]

On 5/23/2020 at 6:21 PM, SchuKingR said:

just download my files from the post above and then swap out the "<frames...>" for the "<frames>" and you are good to go. I can't explain it to you more, because it's not very easy for me to describe something complex like this 1. by text and 2. in english. But it's simple, just try to read my xml file and look at the pcl CAN settings and try to understand

Ach na dann halt auf deutsch   melde dich mal auf whatsapp ‪+1 (727) 485‑6673‬

[Funwithmonkeys]

On 5/11/2020 at 3:30 PM, Funwithmonkeys said:

I have been using the realdash for about a month now and I love it except for the fact that I cannot have it connected and charge it at the same time. None of the OTG cables I have tried work and from what I have read you cannot use bluetooth with the Atom ecu. Is the only way to wire power directly into the tablet?

Well I finally found a cable that works. This is working with a Samsung Tab A 10.1. It charges and connectes to the ECU at the same time.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B081KTQF9Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[vadia]

Im trying to connect my link g4 pnp to realdash on my samsung s10+ and have set up ecu as per the instructions. Im trying to use the samsung usb to type c otg adaptor. Im just not able to connect. Am i missing something. 

I did setup the ecu the same as g4+ continous 12hz and 38400 baud rate. Is it different for my ecu?

[Adamw]

18 minutes ago, vadia said:

Im trying to connect my link g4 pnp to realdash on my samsung s10+ and have set up ecu as per the instructions. Im trying to use the samsung usb to type c otg adaptor. Im just not able to connect. Am i missing something. 

I did setup the ecu the same as g4+ continous 12hz and 38400 baud rate. Is it different for my ecu?

The same setup should work for the G4.  Does a Link ECU show up in the realdash serial port settings?  Have you tried some other device like a USB mouse in your OTG adapter?  Did you powercycle the ECU after having PC Link connected?

[vadia]

52 minutes ago, Adamw said:

The same setup should work for the G4.  Does a Link ECU show up in the realdash serial port settings?  Have you tried some other device like a USB mouse in your OTG adapter?  Did you powercycle the ECU after having PC Link connected?

The link ecu does show up in realdash. It just keeps saying connecting and i dont get a prompt saying "connected". 

No i havnt tried using my otg with any other device besides my old phone to transfer my data over. 

I did indeed powercycle the ecu after connecting.

[Rydawg85]

Hi there, 

So I bought a Android  version 9.0 Tablet as well as a USB OTG adaptor to plug straight into tablet. The cord I'm using is the black cable which comes out the ecu which is used for tuning. Once I have connected to PCLink and changed BAUD RATE to 38400 and Data Stream to Continuous 12hz, I open up Realdash and nothing is connecting when I choose Serial Port?? Can somebody point me in the right direction because I have followed the forum yet that isn't helping. TIA

[Adamw]

Did you reboot the ecu after changing the comms settings?  Have you tried some other device in your OTG cable (like a USB mouse or similar) to confirm the OTG adapter is working?

[Rydawg85]

1 hour ago, Adamw said:

Did you reboot the ecu after changing the comms settings?  Have you tried some other device in your OTG cable (like a USB mouse or similar) to confirm the OTG adapter is working?

Thanks for the reply. The OTG cable is exactly the same as the 1 pictured and recommended on the Realdash website (female end and micro USB on other end) so not sure how this will work with a mouse etc. Have plugged it into my laptop via this adaptor and laptop detects the tablet. And yes I have also rebooted my ecu after changing settings. I even disconnected battery but no luck

[DomsE36Garage]

I had similar issues with mine too, I had to plug a mouse and thumb drive etc into the OTG cable and tablet before it picked up the OTG connection. So you are best off rebooting the tablet and testing until you can get the OTG cable to pick up a usb device on your tablet. Once you are succesfull with that, try it in the car again and make sure you have the car turned to accessory or whatever activates your ECU. Hopefully realdash will then detect the ECU. I'm now 4 OTG cables in with no success on getting the USB and charging to work too, so it's just advise to say the issue is likely with your tablet or OTG cable.

[Rydawg85]

Nice bro thanks for the handy tips, I will try these out and see how I go. My OTG adaptor is the same as the suggested 1 on the Realdash website. It just seems strange, even followed all their instructions and doesn't work. But cheers for the reply, I will update this post and let you know my progress

[h82lose91]

Has anyone tried using this with one of the android atoto a6 type radios found on amazon?  Trying to avoid an extra screen in the car.  Would be great if pclink ever got ported to android

[ROB-80E]

Well, I can honestly say that I'm a very happy boy at the moment. 

I dusted off my old Nexus 7 tablet (running Android 4.4.4) and got RealDash installed and hooked up to my G4+ with no issues at all. Getting the data I wanted (eg ethanol content) was where I started to come unstuck. Did all the reading through this thread, saw the issues with the data stream for lambda and didn't see anything with setting up Ethanol% output.

Long story short, I found in PClink help what is supported over OBDII...I had always planned to connect via OBD as I used to use racechrono etc with my factory ECU. But RealDash over OBDII using my old cheap ELM327 has achieved an awesome result. The data has probably .5 second lag for the fasted refresh rate data, but for me, I'm not using this as "dash". I just wanted to monitor. So it's perfect. 

 

Anyway, I already have some AEM gauges for AFR, Boost and Oil Press, so I got drawing and created my background and dials for my "dash". I also threw in some "lights" for good luck. So what went from wanting a solution for ethanol%, i definitely got carried away. 

 

[replica-rs4]

On 5/22/2020 at 1:36 PM, SchuKingR said:

Tried things out today. Doesn't work, but I don't know why. Although you don't have the dongle yet, can you please take a look over my CAN settings and my xml file? Maybe you can find out whats wrong.
Realdash recognise the CAN streams, but doesn't show the readings...

When I go to realdash CAN monitor and try to take a look at TPS Main (last stream, last 2 bytes). At full throttle the value is at 58883. Shouldn't it be at 1000 according to the Link CAN test calculator?
I attached my PCLink CAN settings as well as my xml file.

G4+ Thunder_CAN_realdash.pclr 172.68 kB · 7 downloads LinkECU_mehrstream.xml 5.61 kB · 11 downloads

Hi, could you share which bluetooth adapter you are using? 

Thank yoy