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Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows

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On 5/22/2020 at 1:36 PM, SchuKingR said:

Tried things out today. Doesn't work, but I don't know why. Although you don't have the dongle yet, can you please take a look over my CAN settings and my xml file? Maybe you can find out whats wrong.
Realdash recognise the CAN streams, but doesn't show the readings...

When I go to realdash CAN monitor and try to take a look at TPS Main (last stream, last 2 bytes). At full throttle the value is at 58883. Shouldn't it be at 1000 according to the Link CAN test calculator?
I attached my PCLink CAN settings as well as my xml file.

G4+ Thunder_CAN_realdash.pclr 172.68 kB · 7 downloads LinkECU_mehrstream.xml 5.61 kB · 11 downloads

Hi, could you share which bluetooth adapter you are using? 

Thank yoy

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Hi All, The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's.  It is now compatible. For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http:

Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion m

I had time to play with this today.  It looks like you can make it work as is.  In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data

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On 6/23/2020 at 12:25 PM, ROB-80E said:

Well, I can honestly say that I'm a very happy boy at the moment.  :)

I dusted off my old Nexus 7 tablet (running Android 4.4.4) and got RealDash installed and hooked up to my G4+ with no issues at all. Getting the data I wanted (eg ethanol content) was where I started to come unstuck. Did all the reading through this thread, saw the issues with the data stream for lambda and didn't see anything with setting up Ethanol% output.

Long story short, I found in PClink help what is supported over OBDII...I had always planned to connect via OBD as I used to use racechrono etc with my factory ECU. But RealDash over OBDII using my old cheap ELM327 has achieved an awesome result. The data has probably .5 second lag for the fasted refresh rate data, but for me, I'm not using this as "dash". I just wanted to monitor. So it's perfect. 


Anyway, I already have some AEM gauges for AFR, Boost and Oil Press, so I got drawing and created my background and dials for my "dash". I also threw in some "lights" for good luck. So what went from wanting a solution for ethanol%, i definitely got carried away. :lol:





Looks fantastic exactly what I want to achieve any chance of you selling the 'skin'? 

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  • 2 weeks later...
59 minutes ago, Mario Schneiderbanger said:

got mine working via can adapter today. i assume this will work for g4x as well. If anyone wants to set this up order one of these and i'll post a step by step to walk you through it 



Yeah awesome Mario, instructions would be great. I might look into this.

Out of curiosity, how do you charge your tablet when hooked into CAN? Does it free up the USB port for normal charging? I still haven't successfully managed to charge whole sending data to the tablet.

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1 hour ago, Mario Schneiderbanger said:

If anyone wants to set this up order one of these and i'll post a step by step to walk you through it 

Note I havent written up instructions for this yet as there is a new CAN to bluetooth device that I want to test and I also want to look at setting up bi-directional comms so you can turn stuff off/on by pressing a button on the dash.


32 minutes ago, DomsE36Garage said:

Does it free up the USB port for normal charging? I still haven't successfully managed to charge whole sending data to the tablet.

No with the USB to CAN adapter you will still need a tablet that is capable of both data and charging at the same time.  With the Bluetooth option it solves that problem in theory, but as yet I dont have one to test.  

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12 minutes ago, Adamw said:

No with the USB to CAN adapter you will still need a tablet that is capable of both data and charging at the same time.  With the Bluetooth option it solves that problem in theory, but as yet I dont have one to test.  

Cheers Adam, keen to hear how you go with the BT CAN setup. At the moment I just charge my dash to 100% before I go out for a race day and works ok so far :)

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Alright over the next few days i'll put together a how to on getting Real Dash to read data off the G4+ using a Seedstudio Can-Usb adapter. This way you can tap into all the available data including lambda/Ethanol% and whatever else that the serial stream doesn't support. With help of another forum member i've stumbled my way through this and now have a working gauge setup on my android tablet. 3 days ago I had no idea where to start with this and i assume other users probably feel the same so I'll share what I learned. 
This will include how to:

-wire the adapter 
-connect it it to realdash
-write the xml file
-try to explain how to use the can calculator to make sure your conversion are properly setup 

When all this is done you can even display it on a android enabled radio

First thing to do is wire the can adapter into your Can 2 output on your B plug. I chose this route because i didn't want to buy the connector required to tap into Can 1 under the tuning port. The adapter also needs a single ground wire going to chassis "sensor ground would probably be fine too"

next you're going to want to open your CAN setup in your PC link file and select Can Module CAN2.
Mode will be User defined, but rate 1Mbits and OBD set to off.

Under Data you will see 6 available channels. Each of those channels will be set to 1 can stream on the next page. Each Stream can hold 64 bits of data. Some parameters are 16 bits and others only 8. It tells you when you select them. More on that later.

Click channel 1 and under Mode select "Transmit User Stream 1". Transmit rate is 200hz. Under CAN ID set ID to 1001 "you can put anything you want but you'll see why I did 1001 soon. Once this is done go to the streams page.

Click on Stream 1 and then "Add frame" then click on "Frame 1" and then under parameters click "add"

Look at my example photo. Lambda has a width of 16 bits "2bytes" but ethanol % only has a width of 8 bits. You can either have 4 parameters each 2bytes or 8 parameters each 1byte or a mix of both like me. Once you fill up stream 1 with 8bytes you have to click on stream 2 and add another frame and keep going till you have all the data you want. 

If you have 2 streams or 3 streams or more you have to go back to the first tab and assigns stream 2 to channel 2 and set the ID to 1002. same with stream 3... "now you know why i named the ID 1001-1002...."


We're done in this window. Apply and Ok out of the window. Store to ecu and save

tomorrow i'll explain how to get real dash to now read the incoming data that you just sent out in this menu.

Take a look at the screen shot of my XML file. After <Frames> you will see the beginning of the data stream. frame ID 1001 is Channel 1 aka Stream 1 from the CAN Setup menu. Notice that the parameters under frame ID 1001 in my xml file match the parameters in my can setup under stream 1-frame 1.

This is where it gets a bit tricky. Target ID means the address in realdash you are sending the data to. in other words when you create a gauge in realdash it's going to ask for a data source. You then pick from a list of channels and in order to figure out which channel is what ID you use the link here: 


Target id 254 is Lambda 1 under Engine/ECU Inputs and that's what we're going to use.

Next is the offset and the length. Look at the can setup. Lambda 1 has a "Start Pos" of 0 and a "width" of 16 "remember 16 is 2bytes"

Ethanol% then has a "Start Pos" of 16 and a "width" told 8 "1byte"

this makes sense because if lambda is 16bits then the next parameter has to have a start pos of 16 and if ethanol is 8bits wide then the next parameter  has to have a start pos of 24. So far so good?

Now in the XML file we don't use bits we use bytes so for Lambda the "offset" <----start pos  will be 0 and the "length" <----width will be 2

For ethanol% the "offset will be "2" and the "length" will be 1

Which means the next parameter would have a offset or 3.....

eventually you will have all the parameters on stream 1 in your xml file and then you need to tell the xml file to start looking in stream 2. you can see that where frameid 1002 starts.

After "length" you will see some parameters require a conversion in order to display properly. You can go to the help file under CAN examples and look for the conversion method and then under can setup try it out in the can calculator. This was the most confusing part for me and i don't really know how to explain it well. Maybe Adam Walmsley can help. It was trial and error for me.

Once you have the xml file built you save it to your tablet in the realdash folder and now we go to setup realdash.

Open realdash and go to your garage. open the door of the car "click on it" and then click on the gauge cluster. This will open a menu where you can add connections. Add a can/lin connection and go through the options. make sure your tablet is connected to your can adapter during this step. At the end it you will see a button for picking a custom can configuration file. navigate to the real dash folder and click on your xml file.

once that's done leave the garage and either pick a theme or make a custom page and start setting up gauges. Now you have to assign the gauges you want to use a data source. So hit edit and click on the gauge you want to use. Click inputs and navigate the list to get to the input associated with the Target ID you chose in the xml file. Use the target ID page i posted to help you navigate. 

There's some info on how to do that part in this video. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_ynfTPGEdv66t1SfTVrf1hsk6QOM3AkX/view?usp=drivesdk

I'm sure i forgot some things so if you get stuck anywhere let me know and i'll help.


can't upload any of my screen shots because of the image size so i'll update this when i reformer them 


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/10/2019 at 3:40 PM, Adamw said:

In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default.  Realdash is compatible with that. 

In PC Link set the baud to 57600.  In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream".  



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Hello. After not being able to  get the GaugeArt gauge to work with my G4+ and not getting much support from them, I want to try DashBoard. Will it display AFR from Link CanLambda? Also will it display boost from Link internal MAP sensor, or do I need external MAP sensor?

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On 9/1/2020 at 8:29 AM, Scamby said:

Yes I have the same issue.

You will need to use the CAN option.  On the realdash website are the supported devices, there are two bluetooth/CAN options and two low cost USB/CAN options.  If you go back a page you will find a pre-configured .xml file from me for the built-in Dash2pro stream so you dont need to do and configuration on your own.  http://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok So I've figuerd out what the problem was, the CAN adaptor needed to have it baud rate adjusted (which you need additional software to do)



Has anyone got the BOOST/MAP value to show anything?  mine just stays static.  Admittedly this was just free reving the engine as its currently still on axel stands.

My next question is has anyone got a sensor that isn't in the "target identifiers" list to work?  I would like to show EGT but not sure how to yet


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  • 3 weeks later...

hi, im newbie here. just want to confirm that is my link ecu is compatible with real dash?

my Link ECU is link G4+ Atom II.

and what is the best method that i can connect with the real dash app for fast reading? Because i intend to do custom dash.

is it using OBD2 Adaptors/Bluetooth/CAN Analyzer?

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Yes the Atom is fine.  As for connection you can just connect using the normal USB tuning cable, this is the most simple option.  Or CAN is the other option (CAN is more configurable) .  I wouldnt bother with OBD2 as there is noticable lag. 

There is a Bluetooth CAN option that looks like an OBD2 dongle (OBDLink MX+) but it is actually capable of direct CAN (no lag).   

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15 hours ago, Officialfarry said:

whats the best usb/can adaptor to use so real dash shows the can lamda readings?

The 4 options listed in the realdash manual:  http://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php

The OBDLink MX+ or the SPL one allows you to connect via bluetooth, the other two require USB.  I have only tried the seeed studio one and it works fine.

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