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G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2


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Apparently those pipes are a common failure point. you can replace the whole pipe if you are dropping the fuel tank anyway. Its just 2x separate straight copper pipes with a few tabs along the way to bolt up. If its just the end thats cracked then you could braise it or re-cut it like you plan. You could probably get a replacement pipe for $100 or so but its the couple hours labour to swap it thats put people off.

 

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you have fuel pressure problems. Either your pump isnt working or your FP sensor is dead. Your tune uses FP sensor as a input to the fuel table (which is good) but its reading 0-2psi for the entire of

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Yea, I replaced the copper pipes that go over the gas tank from engine to heater core with rubber hoses as they had leaks when I had the gas tank out to replace the fuel pump with a larger one.  I didn't catch this one until just last weekend.  This one is up in the front trunk where the heater core has two copper lines that stick into the front trunk right above the battery.  1" after the hose connected there is a crack in the copper.  I am hoping to either cut it back or solder onto it.  The heater core is around 150 used but a pain to replace as it's behind the dash.  I have some of the interior still apart as I am going to be re-wiring the gauge cluster to hook up to my 93+ gauge cluster in lieu of the 92 one that had a mechanical speedometer which was broken.  The new one is identical looking but electronic speedometer, and naturally they changed the connectors and where half the wires go just for fun.  I made my own diagram by following the board on the back so I am fairly confident I can get that working.  Then I need to solder in a resister to get the tach right which there are posts of how to do online.

The wiring was the biggest thing for me to tackle as it was all new to me, all of your support was amazing.  Hopefully I won't have much more dumb questions as I think this is as much tuning as I will do.  Once it goes through all the gears and I am confident it is mechanically sound I will schedule the tuner which has a 4-6 week backlog usually.

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Just an update.

My dad in an attempt to help took off the rubber hose using channel locks which crushed the copper pipe.  So that solidified not being able to repair the heater core.  Upon closer inspection it is completely plugged with stop leak anyway.  I ordered a new heater core and i'll pull the dash to install that in the next 2 weeks.

I didn't get a chance to run your new throttle settings as it would spray coolant in the front trunk.

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New heater core is on the way.  If I get up there this weekend I will swap it in. and hopefully be able to test the throttle response and run it through the gears on the lift.  

I was able to get the seat belts and seats fully in finally.  I had to weld up some brackets so the buckle was not tucked down below the seat cushion.  

Does the OBD port really need sensor ground for the two ground wires.  Some online states chasis ground.  Where is the best place to grab power, do I need to put it straight to battery or is there a good place to tie in that is powered all the time.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well that heater core was an absolute nightmare.  

It got me thinking.  I have been wanting to look into a tablet head unit to replace the radio but really wanted it to double as a digital dash.  Does link support this?  Anyone have any experience mounting one to look clean in a SW20 MR2?  I found some online, One was running MS3 and looked awesome but no radio that I saw.

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For more clarification here is a video showing exactly what I would like to do.  He isn't running Link but otherwise, same model MR2 and same goal.  I want to display gauges and still have radio functionality if possible.  The radio side he made a pretty good write up on I think I can follow.  The ECU side I need to be sure it will work with the Link and then find a tablet that best fits the space.  

 

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Yea I think that meets what I need. There is still a lot I am unsure on.  It appears some people have been able to convert the antennae to a USB input.   A 4 way USB hub then brings it to the tablet?  I am sure I am missing some details here.

The realdash website really didn't help me much, and they do not have many posts on their forums.  What I was hoping for is a list of things required.  Does this need to go USB C -> the port on the ECU? Or is it OBDII to USB C.  Or something else converting it.

When I connect the Tablet to it does a simple USB splitter work so I can bring the radio signal in? Or does a tablet with a separate power port needed?  I believe most Tablets run on 5V so I assume I am pulling off of 12V dropping it to 5V.  

I saw there were some 3rd party apps to help with tablet power.  meaning it will power off when not charging and auto power on, leaving a few second window disabled so going from ACC to start doesn't cut it off.  Any other nuances to be aware of.

I will still have my dash so I don't care so much about RPM/SPeed, but I very much care about AFR, Boost, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, and some other inputs likely.

 

The post you made has a lot of good info but it's difficult to dig through and get a clear image.  I am sure my basic wiring skills aren't helping, I spent quite a while digging on the internet and didn't find any one place with good info but a lot of partial things.  I started pasting them together.

 

I'll be up at the car tomorrow taking a look at it and measuring for tablet sizes.

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So you dont want to use an android head unit that already has a tuner built in?

The problem with many tablets is they only have a single USB port so they cant charge and have something connected to it at the same time.  Even with a hub you usually cant do both, Im not sure if this has changed with USB-C tablets. 

As for radio on a tablet you will need a USB FM tuner/receiver.   

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I didn't realize a tuner built in was an option.  I have a 7 x 3.75 window in the stock bezel for a display.  I can slightly shave this to a larger amount but would like to keep it stock size ish.  I planned to exposy or solid mount it to the bezel just like in that video I posted.  I would like the radio to work, the speakers to work, the gauges to work.  And if possible tuning.  

So you say there are options designed for this?  Where should I search and can I narrow it down by size and inputs?  I'll do some research tomorrow night or Monday but if you have something in mind that could jump start me that would be great.

 

 

As another update I drove the car for the first time.  The transmission worked, I did not remember the latest tune which the throttle response was improved with your help so I will add that next time.  There were no issues on the drive, I did not have a long enough cord to have my laptop with me so I kept the rpm low and out of boost.  Very exciting to drive it after 2.5 years of work.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I was able to drive the car and took a log.  It's too big to attach so here is a GDrive link.  The second link is the Map the first is the log.  Let me know anything you see.  The fuel map is not very smooth, the car felt fine.  I was surprised boost didn't build more as I could hear the turbo pretty good.  The sun was way too bright to read anything on the surface tablet I was trying to use to tune in the car so I took the log in hopes to fine tune it later.  I believe a air pocket in the coolant was causing the temps to rise so we cut the drive short and bled the system again but didn't take it back out.  The fans weren't turning on so I disconnected the temp switch on the radiator and they came on so I think that sensor is bad and have ordered a new one.  

Any direction you can give on the log and on my earlier post on the tablet would be great.  I am scheduling the tuner once I confirm the coolant system is working properly.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Fhn3bkbKADmy-0ATJtMBXeEILS_W5if8

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jo72X3IbS4BgZZDKhbM35I-j-hPB3qm7

 

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In general it looks like everything is working ok.  It doesnt look like the alternator is working.  Your ignition table is very retarded in the off boost areas and there is not much VVT action so it is going to feel fairly lethargic like that.  

As for the boost I would almost be suspicious there is a big boost leak as MAP never goes above 100Kpa.  

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I'll check the alt, I thought it was working before and I haven't put a charger on the battery in the last handful of times idling.  The boost leak makes sense, but it is able to go pretty deep vacuum.  I'll look around next time I am up to try and see what I can find.  

Once I confirm the Alt/Boost Leaks. and Get the lower boost canister spring in I think that is enough front work to have the tuner take it and actually do some good tuning.  

Anything on the earlier post questions about the tablet you said came tuner ready?  I haven't found anything like that available.  I have been looking for tablets around 3.75 x 7 that have two charge ports to work with.  I think there are only a few options.

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Thanks.  I'll have to check for a part number.  The motor came form a 2016 Toyota Avalon which accordingly to Toyota parts online Toyota Part No.: 27060-0P141. 

The way it is wired is based off the diagram I paid for which has proven to be wrong about 10 different times now. But is as follows and is listed as a 4 wire in my notes from him.

Keep in mind these labels are from the guy who did my diagram.  

Pin 1 - White - Alternator Sense Input - to EA 3 - Pin 17

Pin 2 - Red - Power Main - to EFI main (this is to the two post connector in the stock MR2 fuse box in the engine bay just as it was before.

Pin 3 - Empty - Alternator load monitor.

Pin 4 - Alternator warning light - Yellow/Orange - To EA 3 - Pin 4

From the video I take away that the 4 wire is not ideal for the swap and I should look to put a 3 wire in.  So perhaps my alternator is working but it just won't charge more than the 12.5 we are seeing in the log ?  Thoughts?  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Confirmed it is the alternator charging low because of not having the 4th wire input.  I have ordered a 3 wire alternator to swap out.  I saw a drop of coolant so I think that is the overheating.  I didn't have any time to work on it and didn't see any egregious spot for a boost leak but i'll keep looking.  

 

Adam,

Any more information on the android tuner installed tablet you mentioned?  I'd like to consider that option,  It needs to fit in my window area 7" x 3.75" and needs to have two input spots so I can try to make everything work.  

Do I need to run the OBD II port near it to hook into, or would it run off the serial port to the ECU?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ordered one of the 3 wire alternators, what showed up had the name plate filed off so I couldn't verify which it was.  I took a chance and put it on anyways and it still seems to be charging too low.  Maybe the wire is too small from the Alt to the fuse box?

Here is the log where I was able to give it a little throttle and test it.  I swapped in a 5 psi spring waste gate. 

The log and Map are below.  Still waiting on any additional info on the Tablet hookup.  

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aF20yqVct_TDBwg3sndhe51aJFdmx51e

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Jnx2LrePBZumpl9jbOl0uhfr3O3pKC__

 

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On 4/21/2020 at 3:36 AM, mjb214 said:

Any more information on the android tuner installed tablet you mentioned?  I'd like to consider that option,  It needs to fit in my window area 7" x 3.75" and needs to have two input spots so I can try to make everything work.  

Do I need to run the OBD II port near it to hook into, or would it run off the serial port to the ECU?

I said "Android head unit", not tablet.  But a tablet is basically the same - just a head unit is designed to be powered by a car and turns on/off with ignition and has the FM tuner built in, a tablet has none of that.  You connect the ECU to the Android USB port with the tuning cable.  Read the Realdash thread at the top of the forum.

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