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BNR32Gojira

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  1. Adam, Well I'm not quite sure why, perhaps a battery power issue, but the CAN module is working perfect now. Guessing that after the first start and heat cycle I did on the new engine that the battery was able to get more of a charge??? IDK, that is the only difference from prior attempts to connect the device. Appreciate your help!
  2. Adam, I have tried exactly that. I most likely performed a store for another change after I had canceled out of the screen. Would the car running vs just having the ignition in the ON position matter? When I was testing it was pre-start. During the initial heat cycle I wasn’t paying as much attention to trying to reconnect w/ the lambda as other things to keep eyes on. I have tried the steps you described and as per the instructions and have had no luck w/ the harness in both the CAN 1 or CAN 2 location. I ringed out all connections on the harness and was < 1 ohm.
  3. Map attached 89 BNR32 GTR - Matt.pclr
  4. Hi Adam, Correct, CANPCB plugged into the CAN1 location. The tune is just the built in base map.
  5. Need some help trying to diagnose why I can not find my Can Lambda device. ECU is a NGTR+. Can Bus made from 10’ of M27500 shielded twisted pair cable w/ 120R 1/4 Watt resistor soldered at the end. Terminations protected w/ RW-200 and ATUM. Branch for lambda is 6” long, WHT to WHT and WHT/BLU to GRN. Bus leads soldered to Link Can cable, wires terminated to same color combo. Power to module is through a relay as described in the instructions. Ive checked voltage at the module and at O2 plug and am seeing near 12V. When I follow instructions for setting up the module and discovering the device the ECU says it cannot find any CAN devices. Help and insight appreciated.
  6. Got it sorted out. Have both relays tied to same switched ign from oem loom, dedicated 12V w/ breaker for each from batt. Pump #1 needs to see power for pump #2 to turn on. Disconnected the ground for pump #1, turned on AUX 6, then turned on AUX 3 and she fired right up. thanks for the reply’s
  7. Car: 89 GTR w/ NGTR+ ecu Twin in-tank pumps, dedicated relay for each. With both relays tapped into AUX 6, oem signal, they turn on both during initial prime and when set to test on. Isolating each by disconnecting the relay I confirmed that each pump functions properly. With the signal wire for pump #2 connected to AUX 3, pin 9 A/C out, I cannot get the pump to turn on with the test function turned on. Have gone over all connections multiple times and confirmed that both pumps run fine. Kinda stumped on AUX 3...do I need to keep signal wire to AUX 6 and connect relay ground to AUX 3? -Matt
  8. Hi guys, Running into issues trying to get my Brantz BR3 speed sensor to register w/ my G4+. Sensor is a 3-wire: Red (12V switched) Black (GND) and White (Digital Signal). I am running a Wiring Specialties Pro harness and have had a 2 wire lead for speed sensor built into the trans portion of the harness. Ground and Signal are currently going to the built in plug, Pin 53 and ??? GND, with the 12V going to switched power. When monitoring run time values and manipulating the sensor I do not get any readings and the input shows as OFF. I have tried to switch pull-up resistor ON/OFF and Rising/Falling but so far no luck. Could be not spinning it fast enough by hand but it's 4 pulses per rotation so id figure I would get at least some sort of blip or signal. DI 3 (pin 53) is set to GP Speed. Any insight or help would be appreciated, new to this. -Matt
  9. Hows it going everybody, new to the forum and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Matt and I am currently undergoing a winter build on my GTR and have made the change from an Apexi D-Jetro to a Link G4+ unit. Looking forward to learning tips and tricks from the community, as well as sharing any build updates and trouble shooting. My block is at my builders currently being machined and getting prepped for re-assembly, head is off getting resurfaced and refreshed, parts are out for powder coat, and the engine bay is getting prepped for a new coat of paint. Plan is for a fun weekend cruiser/track car with great mid range and throttle response. Here is a semi-current build list: Bottom end: Wiseco 86.5 pistons Manley rods ACL std rod/main bearings ARP rod bolts/head studs Franklin Engineering head drain Ross metal jacket damper Spool Imports spline drive Tomei baffle Tomei restrictor Tomei timing belt OEM idle pulley OEM tensioner pulley OEM water pump OEM oil pump Cometic bottom end gasket kit Cometic .036" head gasket All new engine hardware New welch plugs Oil cooler w/ AN lines Power Steering cooler w/ AN lines Wiring Specialties Pro Harness Fuel: Radium fuel rail Radium FPR Radium Pulse Dampener Radium pressure gauge AEM 320lph fuel pump Deatschwerks 1000cc injectors OEM fuel tank o-ring Power kit for pump constant power Turbo/Intake/Clutch: Garrett GT3582R .83 AR AN + stainless lines & fittings Fuse Fab manifold Titanium burnt coloring manifold + turbo studs and hardware Turbosmart 50mm WG Tomei exhaust gaskets Turbosmart Race Port Spec Twin Disc P-trim GKtech cooling fan GKtech RB adapter ECU: Link G4+ Link Map Lamda kit Link 4 port boost solenoid Dell Venue 8” Windows Tablet dash display I have been starting a new vlog series on YouTube w/ tutorials as I have been working on the car if anyone wants to follow along, Channel is Inertia Images. Same for Instagram @inertia_images Thanks!
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