lekonna

Alright Phil, thanks for clearing this out. I'll do just that. The reason why i've been playing with area that i know the turbo can reach on every weather is because its been very hot here when i've been tuning, and i don't want to run into a situation where in the cold weather i get spool considerably lower than previously and run full boost on a unmapped fuel area, just around the spool-up when the engine is bound to knock the most.

sure thing. just pm your email. i've got a bosch 3-wire isc soledenoid instead of the standard 2jz stepper.

yes indeed, put a 8ms pre-crank prime and changed the startup step table, i used to have the stepper motor and did not take into account that 5 steps is whole lotta different deal than 5% more DC now it fires up better than the original ecu with gas

and to make this the traditional monologue i end up spewing in forums: figured out the following process, maybe something similar could be written to the help file: 1) if the car does not even burb when you are cranking you don't have enough fuel -> increase crank enrichment 2) if the car rumbles but then dies, you are lacking air. -> increase start-up step/dc table if the car is getting too much fuel (wetting the plugs) or too much air, i have no idea how to detect. also good advice on the ignition timing would be appreciated

Hi, could somebody wiser and more experienced tuner please give me some advice on how to tune cold start properly? I'm having troubles getting my e85 engine starting nicely at around 10C and frankly struggling to figure out how to approach this problem. Just randomly adding or reducing stuff doesn't seem like the way to go here. usually around third or fourth cranking attempt the engine starts up. if i just keep cranking the first key-turn the engine does not wake up. what values should i log and how ? how do i determine if the amount of fuel is either enough or not enough ? the engine is around 10.5:1 compression ratio 2jz-gte with 272/9.45 cams, the injectors are 2000cc @ 3bar and the coils are 034 motorsports coils. So i should have enough spark to light up about anything.

I'm having some troubles with the closed loop boost control. It looks like i'm missing the pre-spool stage most of the pulls i do. I have not been able to figure out exactly why it is missing in some cases, except a hunch that it does not fall back to stage 1 from stage 2/3 if it reaches it (due to for example lower boost request earlier in the table) i go wot while the boost control is active (2000rpm 80kpa) and it reaches my target of 0 boost and goes to stage 3. If somebody can confirm this i'll just fill out the whole rpm range regardless if the turbo can reach those or not. here are my pid settings: case where it just doodles around stage 2 without having stage 1 active at all. and case where the stage 1 is active, though i lost grip here so had to drop the throttle logfiles and map file http://zonediscgolf.fi/media/supra/logs_and_base.zip

As some of you might know, tuning on the road is bit different than tuning on the dyno, what you get is the log, not a nice torque and hp curve to look at after each pull, thats why its important to be able to analyse logs properly. for me this means that i do a change, do a pull and then put the runs on top of each other to see what the effect was. Vipec allows to do this, though its not perfect, earlier i requested a feature that the log viewer would actually show values on both of the curves instead just one, and show the delta between the values. I think this would not be overly complicated to implement and would make a big difference on the usability of the log viewer for tuning. Also calculated acceleration from speed would be a great help, since thats what it all boils down to in the end. more power -> more acceleration.

fans pull enough juice on startup to melt a 30A relay . at 9000 rpm, my coils are draining constant 40 with a peak 60A of current/cycle, the fuel pumps take 15 each, that makes it 90A. i did upgrade to 120A charger but whats the point of pushing current to the fan when its not needed? I can take the log on the voltage drop, it was something around 0.5V. http://zonediscgolf.fi/media/supra/dwell_9000rpm.png here is a picture on how the coil dwells overlap at 9000 rpm, if i have the increase the dwell from 5ms i get more current load. though this is not absolutely correct since the drain is not linear. Anyways just a suggestion, if its too hard to implement i'll just hack around it. though its standart stuff on some ECUS. edit: here is a log with the fan activation effect showing on the voltage: i don't want those spikes occuring while im going WOT near the rpm limiter, especially when it does no good to start the fans at that point anyways.

yes i know i can set this up with aux out but whats the point of having an engine fan option if i'm not going to use it? Its going to affect my idle and the aux option does not allow for compensating that. The fans are powered through a relay of their own and have independent fuses in case one of the shorts (learned this the hard way ). The coils are powered the same way save for just one big fuse. I've got the dead times and dwell times setup for all voltages, i'm just playing it safe, since 034 coil needs tons of dwell even with normal voltage. (5ms) it means that increasing it due to low charging voltage will start to limit my rev range quite fast.

Can you please add an option to the engine fan that if speed is above x it will not turn on ? I took a look at my log while driving more than 100km/h and the fans get turned on and off, since they are quite powerful fans it shows as a voltage drop, which then affects injectors and coils. I'd like to keep the fan start temperature lower than the current setup allows, i've noticed that with the 2jz the pump is not really circulating water very well if revs are under 3000rpm, so this means that while driving the engine temp will creep up to 93/94 degs, with a 89 thermostat. (can be verified by shifting down so revs go over the 3000rpm limit, while keeping the same speed the temp drops to 90/89. Now if i have the engine fan setup at 91 degrees it will start to run even the wind from the speed generates more airflow than the fans can.

almost shaken out all of the bugs from the system now, few close calls moves like a bat out of hell already.

groundings ok ?

atleast on supra there is some sort of pressure check on the system before the compressor even starts. So with low enough pressure in the system the compressor clutch refuses to engage. don't know which of the myriad of control boxes does this but in my supra the aircon did not work either with the vipec pnp harness. removed the aircon though so not an issue anymore.

I've got: AnV5 Error High: 5.0V AnV5 Error Low: 0V AnV5 Error Value: 850 Kpa (changed the error value earlier to see if error gets trigged) edit: map sent

checked with a volt meter, indeed the calibration values i got from ecotrons were completely different than what the device was pushing out.

Alright, had time to take a good look at this now, and to me it seems its a bug in Vipec. With the sensor connected to AN Volt 5, set as "oil pressure" and using cal 1, the Cal 1 map is filled with the values scott showed here. The number remains at 0, even if i unhook one of the connections to the sensor (resulting in infinite resistance) it still shows 0. When i measure the sensor it is showing proper resistance values. When i connect the sensor to a 1k external pull-up to the +5V line and use it as GP input, i get values though with this setup my resolution is not good (0,689V for 10bar) didn't want to use a smaller pull-up since not sure how much amperage the +5V can provide. Could you guys do a bench test at vipec with just a simple potentiometer between the AN input and ground and try to see if you can get it to work, to me it seems like the internal pull-up is not getting set when i select the oil pressure -> cal 1 scenario, there is no way for me to configure this either.

Hi, I'm having bit troubles with my ALM lambda. Setup: I have the ANOUT from the lamda connected to AN Volt 4 as Wideband with Cal 4 as the calibration. Cal 4 values are following: Input Value A: 0.00V Input Value B: 4.8V Output Units: AFR Output Value A: 10.29 AFR Output Value B: 27.93 AFR The values are from ALM support, they say that the default values are 0V = 0.7 lambda and 4.8 = 1.9 lambda. multiplied that by 14.7 to get the AFR. The lambda is currently powered directly from the battery via fuse, (to enable me to setup my start maps right from the beginning). The grounds are connected to sensor ground. problem description: The lambda has a display with 7 segment numbers displaying the lambda value. When the display is showing 1 for stoichiometric, i get 17 and change in the Vipec as AFR. so something is off clearly. I've got just couple of days to get the car rolling so i can map it, it needs to be running before next weekend. Is there a way for me to see the actual voltage that the AN out is getting without changing the cal table ? So can i somehow log the voltage also? Also i'm having quite big troubles in connecting to the lambda with my windows7 pc, so i cannot easily change the settings. will try with XP laptop, but i have no clue about the COM settings it requires and the ALM people don't seem to be able to help me with those. strangely enough.

well the engine is now running and building oil pressure. though the pressure sensor on vipec still shows a flat 0. Can you guys provide an example wiring diagram of a resistive sensor such as this? I can double check my wiring to make sure i got it right.

well despite changing the oil pump and all the o rings and the metal gasket in the oil pans the car wont build oil pressura and i think i fucked a main bearing while turning it with the starter engine. nice reward after 20h of changing the oil pump in place. this stuff is too motorsport sometimes. tomorrow i'll pull the whole engine out of the car and do a biopsy. won't put it back together before i find whats causing this for good ..

done, thank ye

can you clarify this a bit? It seems that the range of the sensor is the same as mine, 3-160 Ohm for 0-10bar. however Ray sets up the cal table in increments of 13, with a step of 100kpa: Input Units = Ohms Output Units = KPa Table Start = 0 KPa Table Increments = 100KPa Resistance values for table 0, 13, 26,39,52,65,78,91,104,117,130 The table would result in 130 Ohm at the 1000KPa row, which is different than what the sensor spec says.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=490&p=3469&hilit=oil+pressure#p3469 here is the topic, i think it might be just a mistake on the interpolation. thanks for the help.

verified today that the pump is not moving any oil, so tore down the oil pans and removed the pump (fun with the engine still in the car). will buy a new pump from toyota and install that, though i think the oil pipe in the lower oil pan was only hand tight and since its a metal gasket i don't think it was making a proper seal, so most likely the pump was sucking in air through there. i might rig a manual gauge to the cap with the 10mm hex on the pressure side of the oil pump to make sure its working this time though would still like to know the correct setup for the vipec for the sensor.

Hi, didn't get an answer for my previous question and now its getting bit important:) So i have an oil pressure sender that has the resistance range from 3-160Ohm ( 0-10bar). I've connected it to an analog input and selected oil pressure and a calibration map. However in one of the discussion threads here, ray hall recommends values ranging from 0-130ohm for the 0-10bar range for the same sensor, i wonder if its just a mistake or is there something to this? And just to confirm, i shouldn't need a pull-up resistor for this, vipec will take care of the math for me ? Why i'm askin is that i finally got the wiring for the car (2jz-gte) and was trying to build oil pressure with the starter motor, the oil sensor showed 0 and the oil pressure light wouldn't go off. took off the hoses that lead to my oil thermostat and they were dry. Also took off the plug from the oil pump that is directly after the pump, and there was nothing there. Disassembled the whole timing belt side of the engine (could not get the pump out since its 2jz and in the supra and removing the pump requires dropping both oil pans) then seeded the oil pump through the pressure relief valve hole. After this i dropped the timing belt back on and run the engine with the starter, the pressure showed still 0, though now i got some oil out of the thermostat hose. I removed the turbo oil feed and it was dry, and didn't get any oil there by turning the engine with the starter. Tomorrow i'll check if the pump still pushes oil to the thermostat and if it does i will crank the engine, for this i would need to be able to trust that the oil sensor shows correct values, since if even with the engine running there is no change in the pressure i will have to kill the engine and change the pump.

Finally got the head from the shop and the engine done. the whole package in the engine bay wiring all measured turbo plumbing and coil mounts done maybe tomorrow i can get rest of the stuff done and clean up the bay a bit.