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William B. Cushman

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Everything posted by William B. Cushman

  1. It's working now, thanks again Josh! Bill
  2. Ah! Thanks Josh! I presume that ECU logging has to be on to do PC logging? It was the PC logging I was trying to do, and nothing was working. I'll try this later today, I've got to work now. Thanks for your help! Bill
  3. but I can't seem to get logging to work on my G4 Xtreme with PCLink (latest version). Can anyone give me step by step instructions? Thanks! Bill
  4. I've seen that the nearest dealer is in Houston, but that's over 500 miles away from me. Does anyone know of a tuner (with access to a dyno) closer to Pensacola Florida? Someone with experience with the Extreme and PCLink? I've got the car, a 93 MR2 turbo running fairly well with a 'street tune' but would like to really nail it down if I can. The local tuners I've asked haven't called back when I asked them to look into it. Thanks for your help! Bill
  5. Hi Jurgen, Sorry to keep asking stupid questions, but I can't seem to find where to input the voltages to prevent ANVolt error fault codes. I seem to have 'disabled' my LC-1, or in any case it ceased functioning, and I replaced it with a NGK AFX system. Unfortunately, I now have no way (that I know about anyway) to change the range values for this new system and am again getting over-voltage faults. (When the LC-1 was still working, setting it with a range up to 4.95 did clear out the fault problem.) PCLink says the system analog voltage is 4.98, so if the AFX is actually 5.0 at the top end that would explain the issue. So, I'm now using ANVolt 1 and have it set at 'Wideband,' with 'calibration' set to NGK AFX Wideband. How do I get to the input range settings? Best regards, Bill
  6. Thanks Nick, I suffered another misconception, apparently, and wired the LC-1 to switch on with an AUX output set up for 'O2 Heater.' The high side input for the LC-1 is already attached to ignition-switched B+, and both the ground for the heater part and the controller itself are switched low by the Extreme. I see now that this was wrong, because before the Extreme switches on ANY output from the controller will be higher than 5 volts simply because there is no ground reference at that time. I'll re-wire that today. Is there any reason to keep the heater part switchable from the Extreme? I presume that the 'O2 Heater' option on AUX outputs is to accommodate the narrowband type and is no longer relevant here? Bill
  7. Hi Jurgen, I did read the help file section, and used the values given there for my initial values. I also think I understand what's going on . . . but this is all completely new to me and I was looking for a concrete example to compare with. The engine starts up and runs! I still have an issue though, I'm getting an error message from the Wideband (LC-1) saying the voltage is going over 5 volts. This is probably a 'difference of opinion' between the LC-1 and the Extreme about what constitutes 5 volts which will be easily fixed by lowering the upper limit on the LC-1 slightly. I'll try that today weather permitting. It's freezing here today! Another question: the LC-1 is powered on when the O2 Heater is powered up, so should this be immediately upon starting, or after a certain ECT temperature, or what? Best regards, Bill
  8. Hi, I'm trying to set up an Extreme G4 with a 1993 Toyota MR2 3s-GTE engine and am trying to get everything as close as I can before attempting an initial start. I'm not at all sure I understand some of this, though. Can anyone tell me what knock settings they use with this engine? I'm using the stock Toyota sensor fed directly to Knock 1. Thanks! Bill
  9. OK, thanks for the info. I got a Windows XP Pro (sp1) disk and installed it on my Macbook with VMware Fusion. It got closer to running, this time I got a 'procedure not found' error (I forget which procedure, eventsomething). After some research I found that this error is caused by setting a compiler switch to use a Windows library that is only available with service pack 2 or later. So I tracked down SP3 and installed that . . . and it worked! I'm in business now. The reason I mention the service pack issue is that it may be that setting your compiler to include all procedures rather than relying on Windows dlls might result in the firmware installer also running on Win 2K. Just a thought. Now the fun begins!!! Bill
  10. Hi Mike, You don't need any variable voltage output from the Link to light a LED. You can use the 'output to ground' option to switch the LED on if you power the LED through a voltage dropping resistor. That is, you put your resistor in series with the LED so the resistor limits the voltage and current to the LED. Here's how you calculate the value of the resistor to use. First look at the data sheet for the LED you want to use and find the 'Forward voltage drop' and the operating current. You can find data sheets on the web. A typical LED will have a forward voltage drop of about 1.2 volts (it can vary quite a bit) and a operating current of about 20 milliamps (mA or 0.020 Amps). Your battery voltage will probably be about 13.8 volts with the engine running, so you want the resistor that you use for a particular LED to 'drop' (13.8 minus 1.2) volts, or 12.6 volts, while passing 20 mA of current. Ohm's law to the rescue! The value of a resistor that passes 20 mA with 12.6 volts across it is found by dividing 12.6 by 0.020 and is 630 ohms. Unfortunately, 630 ohms is not a standard value, so go to the next greater standard value, which is 680 ohms. Using Mr. Ohm's fine law again we see that 12.6 divided by 680 to determine the current gives us 18 mA, which is close enough and gives you some safety margin. Finally, multiply the current times the voltage (0.018 x 12.6) to find the power dissipated in Watts, which in this case is 0.23, so a quarter watt resistor or larger will work fine. I would go with a half-watt resistor just to keep it cool. Do this for each of the LEDs you want to use and you'll be in business! Bill
  11. I reported yesterday that the firmware updater in the latest PCLink version (V4.6.9.738) would not start from PCLink or directly from Windows 2000 Pro running via VMware on a MacBook Pro. The possibility certainly existed that this was a problem with VMware and I wanted to check that possibility. So, I did the following experiment. I have a desktop PC with Win 2K as one of the boot options (I normally use Linux), so I installed PCLink on that machine, thus eliminating VMware from the issue. PCLink again ran nicely, albeit without connecting to anything. When I tried to start the Firmware updater, however, I got the same error message as before. I then went to the folder where the updater was stored and attempted to start it by clicking on it and also by using the 'Run' feature in the Windows Start menu. In both cases I got this error window: 'Updater.exe is not a valid Win32 application.' Of course the G4 was not attached, but the program failed well before that was an issue . . . so I think it must be a program bug. I hope this helps with debugging. Bill
  12. Thanks again Jurgen, I definitely misunderstood what was to be disconnected there . . . So I disconnected PCLink from the Extreme and tried the firmware update again, but this time the program popped up a window with a 'Cannot start updater' error. I found the updater in the directory and tried starting it directly, but then I got an error message saying it was 'Not a valid 32 bit program,' which is probably why PCLink couldn't start it. Just to be sure, I've downloaded the program three times now, all with the same result. This whole thing is complicated (naturally!) by the fact that I'm using a MacBook Pro with Windows 2K loaded in VMware. The PCLink software does seem to operate well, however. It is clearly communicating with the Extreme, and could, for example, return the firmware version in the help menu (4.6.0). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! I'm stumped. I've been trying to get past this all day. Bill
  13. Probably a really stupid question . . . but I just got my Extreme installed, powered up, and talking to the latest version of PCLink (downloaded two or three days ago). The PCLink download included a new firmware version, so I thought I would start by installing it. I tried clicking on the PCLink button to do this, and it responded with a window saying that the ECU had to be disconnected first. How can that be? It needs to be in the car and connected to have power . . . I thought. So I shut everything down to see if I could find some detailed directions here, and so far I haven't. Can someone point me in the right direction? Do I really have to remove the unit and arrange power somehow? Thanks! Bill
  14. Hi everyone, I'm installing a G4 Extreme on a '93 Toyota MR2 with the 3S-GTE engine (turbo). The old (stock) ECU has two inputs/outputs for the power steering control module, and one for the ABS module. I also have the 'Electrical' manual for this car, but in the case of the power steering two different diagrams show the signal flow in two different directions. So my first question is, does anyone know whether these signals, 'PS' and 'PSCT' go in to the Extreme, requiring a DI input, or out of the Extreme, requiring an 'AUX' output? I think there is one of each, but which is which? The second question is: what are they for? My guess is that the input signal to the Extreme, whichever that one may be, is simply to 'idle up' and compensate for steering load . . . but the output from the Extreme has me baffled. I'm also guessing that 'ABS' is an input to the Extreme, but what is it for? Thanks for your help! BillyDoc
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