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Ian Seppanen

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  1. I recently switched from the standard Link MAP sensor on my car to a GM 3 bar sensor. After installing the sensor. I changed the MAP selector to GM 3 bar, and attempted to do a sensor calibration. Every time I click Cal, it errors and says the the barometric pressure is greater than 5kpa, or the MAP is less than 5kpa. Or the other way around. Engine off the Baro reads about 95kpa, and the MAP 140kpa. Engine idling, I show approximately 60kpa. I'm slightly confused why it won't allow the calibration. I tested a second sensor, and get the same readings. Is it possible the MAP scaling is wrong in the ECU? Or did I get 2 bad sensors?
  2. Just sent you an email. I had a bit of an uh oh at my last event, and I ended up hucking the car into the trees. I did a significant amount of body damage, so I have been getting all that repaired before getting back to tuning issues. Thanks guys -Ian
  3. I am having issues getting the CLL function to work on my G2 No matter how I set it up, it just maxes out the fuel trim to whatever the max setting is. I have a wideband hooked up, and setup properly. The AFrs match between the laptop and gauge. The engine runs great WOT, but I have 2" ITBs, and she sucks a lot of fuel on transits. I have tried to fine tune it, but I feel like having closed loop control for cruising would be better. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have the wideband hooked up to blank Analog input 1, but I am not sure which analog this corresponds to in the computer, 3 IIRC since MAP and TPS are considered 1 and 2. Thanks guys.
  4. Thanks Scott. I have checked the ground. I guess voltage drop testing the 12v + wouldn't be a bad idea. I am on the hunt for a new distributer.
  5. Ok, I made a small amount of headway. I tried bringing the engine up to operating temp. With the engine idling, once a certain temp has been reached in the engine bay, the car begins to misfire badly as the trigger 2 signal begins to drop out. If I pour cold water on the base of the distributer shaft, the signal comes back full strength, and the engine begins to idle normally. It continues to idle normally until the dizzy comes back up to temp, then the cycle starts all over. As soon as I cool the distributer down, the problem goes away. Now the question is, am I getting EMI inside the distributer? Is the opto/hall sensor just plain failing? I know there are 2 sets of teeth on the Hall wheel. 4 slots evenly spaced, with one being wider, and 360 slots. I cannot remember which of these would be trigger 2. I have a spare distributer, but it is for an S14 and uses an internal coil, while mine is external. I am going to see if I can rip the guts out of the spare and put them in the current unit. Any isight from you guys would be greatly appreciated.
  6. Im back with a new problem. I got the setup issues figured out, and got a base map set up on the ECU. I put around 200 miles on the car breaking it in, and suddenly I began having this problem. When the engine reaches full operating temperature, signal 2 begins to get flaky, and as everything in the engine bay heat soaks I lose the signal completely. Once the engine is allowed to cool down, everything goes back to normal, and the car runs fine, until it heats up again. The first time this happened, my wiring harness was still temporary. Most butt connectors and the like. Since I had gotten everything working I assumed that the cheesy wiring was not transmitting the signal. I pulled the wiring harness out of the car and finalized everything. Solder, heat shrink tubing, then wire loom, and tape to seal everything off. I put it back in the car, and epic fail. It still dies out once hot. My trigger wires are shielded, and the only place they run alongside the wiring for the coil is at the firewall, and the foot to the ECU. Is this an EMI issue? Or should I start looking at problems with the Cam/Crank sensor built into the distributer? Specs on the car are 1991 Nissan 240SX KA24DE with factory ignition, and trigger setup. Custom wire harness. Thanks for your help guys. I have a race in 3 weeks, so I would really like to get this sorted.
  7. I should also mention that in PCLink I am only registering about 250 RPMs during cranking, and it does not read until at least 2 rotations of the engine.
  8. Ok, on the advisement of Simon, I have switched triggers 1 and 2. I have also switched away from the Nissan opto 360 setting in the triggers menu, and have instead selected 1 tooth per rotation. I am now seeing engine speed in PClink, and triggers 1 and 2 are syncing. I set up my fuel, and ignition parameters, and attempted an engine start. I got 2 backfires in the exhaust, and no fire in the engine. I fouled the plugs. I have checked, and do have spark. I need to properly set the timing, but am unsure of where to start. I have adjustment both at the distributer itself, and then there is the second rotory switch inside the ECU. Need to do some more reading to figure out which comes first. I also re set the 1st rotory switch, I get LED flash up to level 4, and then it drops off. I will double check my distributer timing. Its not slotted, but a gear, so I could be off a tooth. Thanks for all your help guys.
  9. Ok, I rechecked all my settings, reset both switches to 0. Spinning the cam sensor by hand I get LED flash only on 0. Any higher and I loose it. With both switches set to 0 trigger 2 syncs within 2 rotations of cranking. I still do not get sync on sensor 1, or ECCS. I still cannot change any of the setting or see triggers 1 or 2 in PClink. I have checked both trigger wires. I get a low voltage with a spike on trigger 2, and a continuous voltage on trigger 1 while cranking.
  10. Ok, I loaded a new base map. No change. I reloaded the newest version of the firmware. (It was already up to date, and did work in the Subaru on that update.) No change. If I switch the trigger type to any of the Subaru's it brings up a few more tabs in the triggers menu, Trigger 1, Trigger 2, and AVCS stuff. If I switch back to Nissan ECCS 360, I retain those options, but clicking on them brings a blank menu. Once the ECU is reset, the tabs disapear.
  11. It still wont give me the option set the triggers indipendantly. All I get in PCLink is Trigger setup, and Calibrate. Im going to try and load a new base map. Can you tell me the settings for the rotory switches on the trigger board within the ECU. The guy at Link USA said he wasn't sure about the settings, and to call him once I had it plugged in. I called, and his receptionist took a message. When I called back an hour later he had left for the day. That was Friday. He really did not seem to know what he was talking about, and I want to make sure they are correct. One switch is set to 6 and the other 0.
  12. I should also mention, when I talked to Link USA, they said there are some switches on the inside of the ECU that may not be in the correct position? Any info on that?
  13. I have a Link G2 that I wired up for a KA24DE in a Nissan 240SX. I am running the factory distributer with internal cam/crank sensors. From research I did I found that this should be the Nissan ECCS opto 360 trigger system. I have it set to this setting in PC link, but I cannot directly configure the triggers, or sync them. The Cam/Crank sensor is a 4 wire system, White signal wire Black signal wire Black/White 12 V Black sensor ground I have the white wire to Trigger 1, and Black wire to trigger 2. The 12v is keyed on with ignition, and the ground hooked to sensor ground wire at ECU. I just want to make sure my wiring is correct. I had though about using the 12 CAS out from the ECU to power it, but it already had a power signal, so...... I have played around with it a bunch, and it just wont recognize the triggers, or give me any menus when I select them individually. I bought this ECU second hand, and it came out of a running Subaru Legacy with a V7 STI swap. After reading the install book back to back a few times, I noticed the passage saying that the correct usage should be noted when ordering so the correct, something, can be installed. I am wondering if this is my issue, or should I condemn the ECU, or Crank/Cam sensors as having failed.
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