Brett Whinnen

Well the case and part number is from a 2002 EJ20 Manual WRX. I'd say the ECU is a Link44s. You can use the older PCLink2.5 to tune this one.

I just used the ground from the MAF wiring connector, re-wired the MAF signal wire to be the wire that goes to the IAT.

If you don't have a Link dealer near you that can get the expansion cable you can get the housing and crimp terminals from Farnell. Housing: 735-6137 - XAP-08V-1: Connector Housing, 8way Terminal: 735-6145 - XA-001T-PO.6: Crimp Terminal, XA Then you can just use AN Temp 2 (which is Expansion pin 7) for the IAT. Brett

Thanks Jurgen, Log file on the way. Brett

Hi Jurgen, I actually disabled all limits to rule it out at one stage. ECT was under 100 at the time and the limit at 80, 90, 100 is 7900RPM (with -200RPM for the soft limiter) and at 110 it is 5000RPM. The log tells me that ECT was at 94 at the time and RPM Limit was 7900RPM, yet we hit a limit (soft of 6000RPM). Thanks again, Brett

The only changes to the wiring are as follows: - Innovative wideband into stock O2, heater out is not disabled (but not plugged into anything either) - Grimmspeed boost solenoid in place of OE - 3 bar MAP sensor instead of OE - No MAF - Knockblock G4 wired in as just analog input, owner didn't want to disable the IC spray to get the Digital input needed. The ECU is in the factory location and nothing there has been modified around it or on the other side of the firewall. I'll disable the O2 heater output as it isn't really needed and even though it shouldn't be actively drawing anything. Thanks, Brett

Whilst tuning a friends Link G4 on the dyno on Saturday just gone, we found that we were hitting an RPM limit at ~6000rpm. The only thing I can think that would initiate that would be the high ECU temp we were seeing on the Link G4, 70 degrees. It is a Link G4 plugin on a MY05 STi (Aust delivered) sitting in the OEM location. My friend has also mentioned he has hit a limit on the street as well at 6000rpm when needing to get into traffic in first gear. Is this normal for a plugin model in the factory location? Is there anything that needs to be done that can alleviate this issue. Spending copious amounts of money to hire a dyno by the hour and having to spend 20 - 30 minutes having to cool the ECU down were not my idea of fun Thanks in advance, Brett

I've got a Knock Link installed along side the G4 and knock block. I find it invaluable for giving a quick indication. Are you running an IAT sensor in place at all? This will healp with the changes in weather via compensation tables. As far as a bad tank of fuel goes, the knock link is a real simple way and I notice it more than the small little CEL on the dash

You can roughly calculate the value to change the master to given the ratio difference of you old to new injectors. This will get you _pretty_ close. But you will have to always then modify zones to suit. I did this moving from a set of 440cc to 700cc injectors with minimal re-tuning required.

As I typed the response I was thinking to myself that I bet Ryan has a wire in model. I'm not too worried about modifying the loom to suit what I want, and if I move to a more modern solenoid type of IAC I'll rewire as I need to. I wasn't too worried about the knock control being built in as I already had a knock block anyway, this coupled with two sensors gives me what I need in that respect. Whether it is hot or cold mine will start with the same amount of cranks (roughly speaking) there is no noticeable difference when it is hot. I am obviously still running the stock IAC setup, but have a set of 700cc injectors in place of the stock 440's. For pre-crank prime I have 2ms for ECT of 80 and then 0ms for 90 and above. Crank enrichment is 15ms for 80 and 5ms for 90 and then 0 for 100 and above. Which from memory were the stock for the V5 maps. I've found that the hot engine requires a bit of fuel initially to help stabilize the idle so I wasn't too worried about having the extra little bit in there for start and then let it decay off post start. My closed loop lambda for idle is 15.4 and I find idle rock solid. So far I'm more than happy with the plugin, it does what I need, accepts the input from the LC-1 wideband setup, the IAT, runs gear dependent boost tables, and controls the water/meth injection (rudimentary boost versus throttle position). Cheers, Brett

Hi Ryan, I've got the G4 plugin for a V5/V6 in my MY00 WRX, I'll have to double check, but I don't think I actually had to do anything to get power hold for resetting the stepper motor on key off to work. I'll run through the wiring loom changes I made to be sure though. Brett

Same here as Martin now, I've found that open loop with gear based figures are perfect for what I want. I find it actually easier to get the desired boost curves with this method than the older closed loop system in the PossumLink.

On further investigation you may not want to do it due to the way the error detection is setup at the moment... It is pretty basic, but for the analogue inputs, which KNOCK is one of a 0-5V input, you could work out the voltage that would indicate a value as knock and flash on that. I think some more smarts are needed to actually flash the CE based on a knock event itself... Of course be careful as this error once breached will probably stay until the ignition is cycled, which means that you could be in perpetual knock Cheers Brett

With the newer firmware you can now have alarms flash the CE light. I've not got my CE light hooked up anymore as I wanted to use that output for the water injection. Most sensors and so forth can have alarm levels put on them, I've not delved too far and don't have windows running at the moment so can't check but assume you should be able to. Also if you already have the knock block, why not just output from that to the digital knock display? I still run the knock link anyway as it was the first visual knock display I had in the car, its just a visual now. No closed loop boost control, but then I find that open loop combined with using gear based settings works perfectly for me. Cheers Brett

Tony, what do you actually need for the AVCS as far as inputs / outputs? Are there two sensors (ie one per head)? inj5 is perfect as it only normally runs the CE light, which is pretty redundant in my mind, I use this to control water injection on my MY00. inj6 is needed only if you have the ISC stepper motor reset on power down, if you are willing to wait for the ISC to reset itself when turning on ignition you could use this as the other output. Of course if you changed the idle control to a solenoid instead of the stepper you'd also free up some of the primary aux outputs... As to inputs what are required above the usual cam angle sensor? Sorry I've not done alot on AVCS so don't know the controlling mechanisms. Brett