Chris Young

I've driven a fair few of them, yet to put up with the wait of 18 months for the one I want. so I will wait and see what after market goodies are offered for them and then order one in a few years. I was hoping LINK would do something as I have had great success with my 4ag an the g4

Okay, was looking at 9000 limiter cut with a estimated power output of 280kw ATW on 28 psi. As long as it will be accurate when I put it on the dyno, if the unit ever fails I will go down that path [it is more common due to heat soak as it sits 20mm above the turbo manifold] just for reference what sensor should I use.

hi, On my 4agte with a 4agze is there any advantage running a 36-1 trigger wheel and sensor off the crankshaft? i was going to still run the CAS as a reset signal for the sequential ignition as i was advised by a friend to do so. What brand of sensor would you recommend to use with the link also? and can talk me through setting it up settings?

Hi team, Do you have an idea if you are going to do a plug and play ECU for the 86/BRZ? i can guarantee at lease one sale from me Thanks

Thought i'd add abit more information to the differences in the engines. The Caldina has: Camshaft postion sensor like the 2grfe's coil on plug 540cc injectors... just to name a few of the differences, would it be likely to still be plug and play?

hi, basicly i was seening if you can use one of the link g4 plug and play ecu's for the ST246 toyota caldina. i noticed the mr2 and celica were covered but no mention of the caldina. also does it retain all of the factory features like knock control and cruise control? Or would i be better off installing an extreme g4? i orignally was looking at an emanage ultimate for easy of use and all the factory ecu features but im hopeful that you can help me out as the link ecus are a great bit of gear... thanks in advance, chris

Hi, Is the knew knock link able to run more than 1 Knock sensor? Just thought I'd ask the quesion

makes 130KW on 8PSI out of a 1.6 with very conservative timing. Thanks Link Team, you Rock!

It lives!!! Thanks heaps

this is the cranking after you wait 10 seconds or so after key on Let me know your thoughts

this is what happens when you turn the car on straight. done multiple times to see whats wrong

This is my latest pcl config

Nope, reading is fine, 35 degrees and constant. [for 4 seconds anyway] Still same problem, i have 5 -7 seconds of car running time/ starting time once i put power to the ecu. After that time it doesn't shut off, but it wont let the car start, the starter motor will keep turning the engine and i have both fuel and spark.

I'll check that but I'm sure i looked over that a month ago when it wouldn't start, I'll let you know tomorrow after i test it tonight

The only reason i ask is because the wiring is the same, the components are the same, the triggers are the same, sensors are the same. The only things that have changed are the engine internals, turbo size, exhaust & a new gearbox, it doesn't make sense to me

Didn't change a thing, what are the chances that the ecu has an internal fault, it is coming up for three years old?

Okay i have a new Problem: I did notice, if I turn it on straight after key on it will start (very easily too, like 1.5 turns), if I don't turn it on and let the fuel pump prime [or simply wait 5-10 seconds] it won't start,it will just keep turning over. Bit the rpm and trig pulse say they're okay. I did notice it idles around 2200rpm while its on, and I've got the cold idle set to 1000 at 40*C Tests i have done: >Setting Axillary output that controls the fuel pump to:'Test (On)' >Hard wiring fuel pump & making a new FOC relay >Updated from 4.8.8 to 4.8.82 to fix firmware It's as if the injectors stop working, however it will start straight away from the if you go from off to start straight away. Any more advise?

yes they do, however i believe the problem was that the battery had dropped a cell. i put a new one in and it started straight up. Thank you for your help, but it was a simple fix that i overlooked.

Are the Bosch 5 bar type okay to use? i have a 1St gen g4 Storm and i want to use more than 30PSI? Sorry to thread hijack.

yeah i am getting the right readings, is there something i have missed? anything else that may be it?

I have cas signal now. But I only have spark when I put it on test mode, when I crank its got no spark. I get no errors no when cranking? Just tested continuity [pain in ass when these only one person] Remembering that electricity is lazy Must be something in the setting? Can anyone help or point out why it wont spark when i crank?

I attached my tune above for a 4agte running wasted spark

Thanks Jurgen, I sent an email to teck AT linkecu attn to you. i'm sure of the wiring and the CAS set up and i know for sure that the CAS sends a signal. I do get trigger errors in the 'runtime values: triggers/limits' under 'trig1 err counter' when cranking. To confirm my hypothesis about the coil packs and ignitors being the problem [i'm unsure how to test them] i will be converting my ignition to 1zzfe coil on plugs over the weekend. Also this car has been running before many times, i have rebuilt the engine and swapped to a different gear box, new GT3076r turbo and that is it.

hi, I am having problems getting spark to my engine and thought I'd ask if the cas voltage figure would have anything to do with it, there's a picture of my readings, please let me know. Its a 4agze with a CAS

Hi, I'm wanting a better way of keeping an eye on my o2 readings as well as running it through the link. What exactly do i need to do to get a wideband o2 sensor to run through the link in a closed-loop fuel control from the wideband signal? as i haven't purchased a wideband 02 sensor is there a link one or what would you recomend. would also link any tips you could offer when going from open to closed loop with a wideband i have an AE92 toyota rolla with a turbo 4age 1600cc in it. i just want it a little leaner off boost when i'm cruising on the hiway as well as a safer AFR under heavy boost.