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  1. I got ahold of turbo performance today and he told me the same thing, and showed me how to clear them. it seems to get rid of them I needed to click "clear ecu fault codes" under the ecu controls tab on the top of the page! and here ive been scouring the wire harness for weeks for no reason haha he stayed on the phone with me for a very long time showing me how things work and I'm grateful, although its way more information than I could retain in one bite. I got up to the hill late and made a couple logs, and it seems I either have a boost leak or my new turbo is toast. I should have tried more tests like securing the waste gate fully closed, setting my data logger to fuel pressure or selecting record oops, it could be a fueling thing too, my secondaries never ran but I never got boost either but I believe the secondaries only fire when I reach a high enough kpa which was never achieved? firsttunefallonface2.llg firsttunefallonface3.llg
  2. I dissected my old throttle lever to remove the resistors, re soldered them together nicer and made a circuit back from the sensor gound to the tss pinout and it seems to work. I was concerned it might start but not rev up but I just tried it and it works. reading the help page sort of helped too. its reading 3.95 volts I believe. now these red faults I'm still getting are bogus, nothing is failing, everything seems to be working like it should? as far as I can tell anyway? I'm going to go try ride it tomarrow see if I cant burn it down. ill have to do a bunch of reading since I have no idea how to make adjustments to the ecu? I don't even know what I'm looking for yet? I have a multi parameter gauge on my handlebars but this computer should read most of what it does, oh well itll be a good day for a walk back to the truck
  3. f4 dosnt do anything? it just pulls a different window off the side asking if I want to hook up to a bunch of different computers
  4. I tried control s a couple times then used the save in the drop down a few times. I will try the f4 here in a bit
  5. that safety switch is certainly the problem. I can keep the power hooked up so it dosnt reset the anvolt4 back to throttle safty switch on and it starts right back up every time. as soon as I removed power it just fires and dies until I go back in and turn anv4 off again, then it fires right up
  6. how do I permantly turn off my throttle safty switch? I can turn it off and save an.volt 4 which is preprogrammed to be the throttle safty switch, but every time I cycle the power it comes back. it is also one of the red fault code 19 anvolt4 above error high value. funny part is its totally gone unpinned from the ecu 26 pin plug and all the extra wires removed fixed the voltage drop problem, it was the female sensor ground pin in the 26 pin connector wasn't making a good connection. but still I get the red faults. started it and now it functions correctly I think. it at least revs past 6000 rpm and for some reason the afr's are in sink. BUT I shut it down for a couple seconds to re arrange some wires and it wouldn't start again? it was acting like the first ecu when I would pull the rope, it would fire and that's it. I started recording and forgot to save it but what I saw was the bap would drop to zero when I pulled the rope and shoot back up after the crank. I did have the external battery plugged in. I tried it without the batt and same thing, then with the batt again and it started really rough like it was flooding. nursed it for a second and it cleaned up. the problem repeated and I recorded it twice Log 18-04-17 rough start.llg Log 18-04-17 rough start 2.llg
  7. Is there a wiring diagram from vipec that could tell me the bare bones basic amount of wires I'd need for this? It's to the point where it would be easier to start over by building a new wire harness and throw the Polaris one in the trash
  8. Right right, I'm not sure who these ecus came from originally however two of them have never really ran. As in the owners couldn't figure out how to use them. Thanks for that crucial part of info I needed about the dash, it's been weighing on me for a while. I wonder if my problem isn't an electrical component somewhere testing fine but is actually bad I'll try more stuff saturday
  9. I didn't know you were part of the tech support I assumed you were just a helpful observer haha well my question is who has snow specific info for me? Like a list of dealer's I could call? Question, can this ECU run without the factory gauge? It has to, I wouldn't think race teams would be forced to have the extra weight of the harness, gauge and connectors all bunched up on board? Maby there is a specific harness or mod to a stock one I'm missing.
  10. How do I contact vipec? Emails just get sent back to me? Are they even still in business?
  11. on a positive note, I guess I didn't burn up the other ecus. I have something wrong with the 26 pin connector? has anyone heard of those pins wearing out? well I guess it could be the female end too? probably the most obvious being none of the three work right on this harness but do work on the harness on the bench. I came out to find the newest one faulting just like the other two but when I picked it up this time it was powerd up and flickered when I moved it? now hooked up to the second ecu and fiddling around I found it to be one of the wires from around 14-17 I believe but cant get it localized just by pushing on them? any ideas? heres a little log of when I push on them and release, I can release slowly and make it creep or just let go and it jumps. however even when I hold it at where its "working" its still sending those codes in red Log 8-04-17 6;22;07 pm bad connection.llg
  12. I am positive I have the gm 3 bar. its brand new and matches the other three I have that came with the three vipecs. they all read the same on the screen. in the paperback manual that came with these, it reads the baro and map should read within one digit of each other. like you reminded me that's just at idle. however after its shut off the map dosnt return back up where it should. I have a feeling theres still something funny with my black blue sensor ground wire. weather it be a bad sensor somewhere or something backwards since all the faults have to do with just that system, well except for the afr code which makes no sense. in the wiring schematic for the iat sensor, it was very vague. could those wires be reversed or does that matter? like in that screenshot up a few posts reading 2 iat. I think it was 50+ degrees f that day
  13. How do you switch between the different parameters in the log? I was trying to test my exhaust valve theroy but can't figure out how to view the voltage like you did? I clipped off the resistors I had in the throttle safety switch and turned the function off. Yeilded a positive result but didn't totally fix it With it off I can now work my baro and map up to 99 where as before they would only get up to 93. And the way of adjusting them is way different now. Before I would enter values of anywhere from 14-18 in the baro box to get it up to 93 but now the values entered are closer to the result. Example, a value of 102.4 entered into the baro box equaled 101 like I need. But the map won't follow it that high. 99 is all it'll rise to. However after I start it the map drops back to 89-94
  14. Fiddling with the faults and noticed one is an volt 2, it looks like it's the throttle safety switch. I turned that function off but still get the fault? There is a "problem" with it. I don't have a switch like stock, and think I soldered in a resistor to make the stock ECU think it was still there? I have an aftermarket throttle block to relocate my kill switch. I wouldn't think it would be necessary to have it for the vipec? I suppose I can just delete all those wires too. Those two voltage drops in that chart looks like are .05 milliseconds apart? So I doubt it's the ev selenoid like I thought before, that's makeing a clicking noise about every two seconds, sometime a couple or three back to back
  15. man reading that stuff puts me right to sleep
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