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About Simon-AE86

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  1. Your only need to remove the R4 resistor on the tacho circuit board and wire in a 100ohm resistor. Its as simple as that. you can remove the cluster, pull apart, cut the OE resistor out and solder in the new one in place, refit and be done in half hour. FWIW the relay mod does not always work.
  2. Yeah i am. Just did some research on the mazda igniter,. seems the select channel controls which coil to fire via a 0v to 5v change and a 5v to 0v change in state. So i can see why Link wouldnt be able to do it. I guess LS1 coils are going to be the go then.
  3. Hello all I have a monsoon wire in on a s5 13bt using the stock mazda coils. Set up in Leading-Wasted mode and im having issues with the trailing coils. Ign 1 is wired to the Leading wasted coil, this works fine. Ign 2 and 3 are wired to the Ign inputs on the Trailing coil. when conducting the Ignition test i can only get one trailing coil to work. however if i turn both on, the coil that works switches side from T1 to T2. Im 99.9% sure that the igniter is wired correctly as theres 4 wires, the two not used are tacho and ignition confirmation. leaving me two triggers for T1 and T2. All signs point towards a faulty igniter... but just wanted to check in case i'm missing something stupid.
  4. hard to believe that people still believe the lag myth
  5. Simon-AE86

    Toyota 86 CAN

    Thanks for that, i have sent you a PM Tiz
  6. Simon-AE86

    Toyota 86 CAN

    Correct. Different motor, stand alone and full wire in ecu (an extreme)
  7. Simon-AE86

    Toyota 86 CAN

    Hello All I was wondering if anyone has had any success in integrating a Link ecu into a Toyota 86 and having it operate successfully with the CAN body systems? Can it be done?
  8. on the same topic.. i have a G4+ red xtreme.. running latest firm ware. am i able to run nissan ABS sensors front and rear through two DI inputs?
  9. having recently had this issue the easy solution was to splice open the insulation of the CANDASH cable near the plug at the ecu end and cut the Serial cables then seal it back up again with heatshrink.
  10. Thanks Adam, i didnt see the 2nd link in that thread. worked a treat! Cheers
  11. Thanks for that... that seems to have solved the oil pressure values however for some reason fuel pressure reads accurately but with a minus in front of it.
  12. Hi All I have configured my AIM dahs to work with my G4+ xtreme Red ecu how ever I'm having issues with the oil pressure and Fuel pressure channels reading lower values to what the ECU is. at a 750 rpm idle the ecu reads 200 ish KPa oil pressure and 250KPa fuel pressure. the dash reads 20 KPa and -25 respectively. I have updated the dash to the latest firm ware, as is the ECU. Any suggestions Cheers
  13. Hi All Just a couple of quick ones. I have E throttle set up as per the diagrams in the help files and used the Altezza 3sge E throttle set up configurations. seems to work work. However i noticed that the E throttle itself gets quite warm/hot and has a slight hum with engine off and ign on. I have it set up as run E throttle when stalled. I tried "quiet throttle" also but the body still seems to get quite warm . Secondly, when pressing f12 and selecting the Aux tab i notice that E throttle + and E throttle - do not get highlighted green at all. is this normal? Cheers S
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