Richard McGeachy Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 i've just put the linkg3 into my liberty rs turbo. its was tuned today and running ok: my current issues: - returning to idle (eg clutch in stopping at the lights) - it hunts up and down then stabilises - i assume its something to do with clamping? its set on closed loop. Â - the engine fans aren't coming on at all. they are connected and operate when the aircon is switched on (hard wired in i suspect from factory). auxiliary 5 has been set to engine fans - but nothing happens. the worked fine with the OEM ecu - the intake temp sensor is located in the plenum, will it see enough temp variation in this position - or would it be better in the the intercooler pipework? cheers richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 The idle problem is a tuning issue. It could be that the closed loop idle is not set up correctly or that the fuel and ignition maps are not correct around the idle area. I have the same engine in my own car and I can assure you that idle control works very well when set up correctly. If there is too much variation in the numbers in the fuel and ignition maps, hunting around idle can be a problem... Also if the closed loop idle gains and base numbers are not setup correctly then idle will be unstable. I am not sure why your engine fans do not work. Have you set Aux 5 to "Test On" to see if the fans run? The fans are overridden by the air con controller when A/C is running. Plenum chamber is the best place for an IAT sensor as it will actually measure the temperature of the air entering the engine. Make sure that you use a fast responding sensor for best results and least amount of heat soak... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard McGeachy Posted September 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 seem to have got the idle under control now : ) i have put auxiliary 5 on test and i can hear a relay click under the dash. still no fans though.... what sort of variation do you see in your intake temps, at idle, cruise and boost?cheersrichard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 Maybe the fan fuse is blown? Or maybe the fan relay that clicks is the fan speed relay and not actually the fan relay. check the fuses (big ones in the engine bay) first, then I will give you some things to try. The a/c uses its own fan relay... If you are sure they are all OK, then remove the adapter PCB from its case. On the bottom side you will see a track that has been cut. Re-join it and see if that helps. What cutting that track does is disconnect the Fan 1 and Fan 2 drives from each other. When they are joined on some models the fans will go when the key is in the A/C position. My car only runs Fan 1 on Aux 5 and there is no problems (V1 WRX). I can see a variation in air temp from about 15 to 80 degrees. Usually at cruise it runs at about 20, after a lot of thrashing I think it goes up to about 35 and if I leave the motor to sit and heat soak it can get as high as 80... You can see why IAT correction is important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard McGeachy Posted September 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 right - obviously i have a problem with my intake temp sensor - is see little or no variation from 40-45 degrees - regardless of conditions. i run a digital intake temp sensor in the throttle body. it varies exactly as you describe. i have used the AFM signal and ground wire with the sensor - is there anyway to check if its working? the fuses are all fine. checked that first. i have the pinout for the OEM loom - if things are working correctly i should be able to see a voltage change on the engine fan relay signal wire - i'm assuming that the link is not doing that. with the original ECU both fans came on together - not sure if this normal or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted September 6, 2007 Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 On the adapter board it normally joins the two fan relay drives together. Before they are shipped a track is cut so only one fan relay drive runs. That was to prevent a weird back feeding that made the fans come on when the key was in the acc position. Pull the adapter apart and re-join the track and see how you get on. Make sure you set the adapters jumper in the correct place for using the AFM signal wire. Also check that you have used the correct ground at the AFM as there may be more than one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard McGeachy Posted September 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 fan problem solved. i earthed the fan relay signal wire out (pre ecu) with the key on, fans came on. the ecu is obviously not grounding the fan signal - because it would appear the adaptalink won't allow it. so i linked the signal wire to the aux 5 wire out of the ecu, switched the polarity to low - bingo fans. does this sound ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard McGeachy Posted September 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 the ECU brings up a warning when the intake temp sensor is unplugged - i guess this means my wiring and jumper position is correct. unfortunately the sensor was not purchased from link, it was forgotten and as a result i have got one through an autronic dealer, which i assume suits autronic ECU's. i assume this makes it 'custom' and i need the resistance data. i have tried all the listed sensors - it merely changes the base temp - with little actual fluctuation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dave Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 you will need a new air temp sensor as the autronic ones are a ptc type and the link and most other ecus for that matter use a ntc type you will need a fast response one like the delphi or bosch open element ones when you turn aux 5 on to test function and the relay clicks does the laptop screen refresh? (looks like it flashes) have you checked that the relay that clicks is the fan relay? if it is then there is power or an earthing issue if it is not then there is a wiring issue is there 12volts on the aux 5 wire ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard McGeachy Posted September 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 so that sensor won't work regardless of have the resistance data in 10 degree increments? great thought i'd stuffed up. i'll get one monday. the fans now come on with the key in the acc position - i haven't done anything inside the adaptalink yet - perhaps that track wasn't cut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashesman Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 You fitted a wire around the outside of the adapter didn't you? That would have the same effect as the track in the jumper not being cut hence the fans coming on in acc position... I will try an adapter in my car tonight and check the operation of the fans... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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