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B.Edmonds

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Posts posted by B.Edmonds

  1. On 9/11/2019 at 9:31 AM, Leiden said:

    Are you getting an RPM signal during the no start condition?

    If the engine is using reluctor sensors for cam/crank check your arming voltage table, in some cases I've had to drop the 0rpm voltage to 0.2v to get the engine to sync, also check the polarity is correct

    Ya, I confirmed via the laptop that I have both crank & cam signals active when cranking.

    Based on this, I confirmed that I had a faulty fuel pump & have replaced it. Running again !

  2. Hello all,

    I have an intermittent condition with my car ( 1992 Escort Cosworth with Link Fury ecu ) where the car will intermittently crank but not start. I have a Motec dash which I will be configuring to display fuel pressure tomorrow but I was wondering in the event this isn't a fuel delivery problem, can I configure the ecu to store a fault if a sensor ( for example crank or cam ) fails to operate ?

    Thanks in advance for any input.

  3. I'm having a Motec dash configured at the moment & was wondering if it is possible for the ecu to transmit fuel consumption based on injector activity.

    The supplier of the dash ( Cody Philips Racing ) mentioned that some ECUs have the ability to transmit this info.

    It's a Motec C127 dash.

  4. Thanks everyone for your replies. Changed the ISCV htz & no difference.

    Further investigation revealed a small vacuum leak. Fixed it. Now have reliable, trouble free cold start.

    Thanks as always for the support.

  5. Hello all,

    My car is near impossible to start from cold without some throttle input. I have asked my tuner to adjust but he hasn't been able to.

    it take very little effort to start when cold & once started it idles perfectly. Once warm, it starts perfectly every time on its own.

    Wondering if anyone out there can take a look & let me know what I can do. I've never actually done any adjustment so I'd really be flying blind if I try it on my own.

    1992 Escort Cosworth. Honda coil on plug, ID1000 injectors. Let me know if I need to provide any other info.

    Thanks !

    Cosworth March 2019.pclr

  6. 1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    This doesnt always work.  You usually have to change the value of several other components to convert a high-level tach into a true low-level compatible tach.  So my feeling is this is still more likely your issue.  I cannot think of any ECU settings that would change the tacho output signal from the ECU over time.  

    Thanks. I completely get what your saying but I'm struggling to understand why it will be fine for a few days and act up suddenly. There's also no pattern to how it will act up.

    I've also spoken to a few friends with Escort Cosworths. In each case, these people have done the same cluster modification with good results. The ecus range from Pectel to Emtron to many others. Anything else possibly worth checking ?

    Attached is someone else's picture of the tacho modification. Same as mine.

    Wire to Tacho Back_zpskjgbguy0.jpg

  7. After driving the car for a week or so I have started to experience a strange symptom.

    While driving, intermittently, the rev counter will drop to the 0 position. When it does this, it will cycle between 0 & +/ 5rpm for a few seconds & the stop completely.

    Engine running quality never changes. If I shut down the engine & restart, the rev counter does not come back to life. If I leave it over night it starts working again.

    I have checked the following:

    * All electrical connections good

    * Swapped in a known good cluster. Same symptom

    * Checked ECU for RPM on laptop, good. No faults present with the engine running & the tachometer gauge reading 0.

    ** When I was 1st trying to get the car running I had a "block 3" fault. This was before I got the engine running. Have not seen this fault return since the one time I saw it.

    Possible ECU fault ?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

     

     

  8. On 8/4/2018 at 3:47 PM, Adamw said:

    The settings "reverting back", would most likely be that you are not performing a "ECU store" before switching off.  Whenever you make a change it is only stored in temporary memory, you need to do a store to write it into permanent memory.  Ctrl-S or F4 is the keyboard shortcut to do this.

    This is not a car I know much about but if the tacho is still intermittent after you have stored these settings properly then my next suspicion would be that the tacho may be a high-level device that was originally designed to be driven off the higher voltage coil signal.  It may need a "tacho booster" circuit added.

    Thanks for your help Adam.

    I went ahead & bypassed a resistor on the back of the cluster & presto, it works perfectly.

  9. I have a 1992 Escort Cosworth with a new engine harness and Fury ecu. I have the car running and have driven it quite a bit.

    I managed to get the tachometer operating accurately by adjusting duty cycle and multiplier however I'm having 2 problems:

    * When I 1st start the car, the tach does not operate ( it's in the 0 rpm position with the engine running ). It will only begin to operate after about 10 min of driving. Will remain operational until I shut the car off. When started again, everything repeats.

    * My adjusted duty cycle and multiplier randomly revert back to what the maker of the base map made and I have to reset.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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