Sumbitchsubie
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Posts posted by Sumbitchsubie
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Update for my clients situation. We reached out to link and got the special cable provided by support, it helped but definitely did not resolve the issue. We notice that the issue happens even if the engine is not running and we do an ignition test, as soon as the coil fires it will disconnect.
We also verified the main ECU power source wasn’t a problem and ran a fused wired directly from the battery for testing, same issue.
Such a bummer for my client.
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On 2/20/2021 at 9:06 AM, koracing said:
Frankly I'm at the point that I don't think link is going to provide any kind of timely fix for this.
Right now the best results I've had so far is with the ferrite beaded cable obtained from Link tech support and a Belkin brand 5 meter active extension cable.Hey thanks for the advice, I’ll reach out to them to get that cable and try the active extension cable. Much appreciated fellow Oregonian!
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Have two customers with G4X's and they are both experiencing the same problem, newest updated firmware that was released Feb 10th 2021. It does it on an Lenovo Ideapad AMD Ryzon 5, an old intel HP laptop, and my 2019 MacBook Pro, although it is somewhat better on my MacBook than theirs, it still disconnects repeatedly making it very frustrating to tune.
Any advice? We've tried updating USB drivers on the ideapad, using ferrite's on the USB cable, verified all grounds are good and wiring is pinned correctly, what is going on? -
15 hours ago, Adamw said:
If you load the map into the fury it will be converted to a fury map, and will inherit all the fury IO and features. You can then save it back on to your PC. Otherwise attach here and I can load it in an ecu.
Ahhh that makes sense! I haven't got my ECU powered up yet so I will do that, thank you for the info!
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13 hours ago, Davidv said:
Imagine you had your bare engine block, and you hit it with a big hammer. And it went doooooonnnnggggggggggggggggggg like a bell.
That's basically what knock does, and it's what you're listening for.
The size and shape of your engine block changes the noise that it will make. (Primarily bore size)
So it's not a case of setting it up based on what sensor you're using - it's about matching the sensor to your engine. As a knock sensor is basically just a type of microphone.
There's a good article on knock sensing here:
https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/webinar-questions/show/083-understanding-knock-1Makes sense! Awesome thanks for the advice and for linking that article for me! Much appreciated!
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On 10/22/2019 at 12:24 AM, thetyrant said:
Short story im building a turbo mk3 MR2 roadster with the stock Toyota 1zz motor, ive bought a turbo kit which came with a pre-mapped G4+ storm and ive now installed that into my car and working on getting it all up and running NA with stock injectors (was on 460cc with turbo kit on previous car but they are not well matched set after testing so bought new ones) once im happy all this is good i will fit new larger Bosch injectors and tune to suit, when im happy with the NA setup i will fit the turbo kit and tune accordingly.
Reason for this post is im wondering what knock frequency i need to use on the 1zz motor and what others have found works well ? current map on ecu (supposedly done by a pro who are meant to know what they are doing) has it set at 6hz but going my calculations using bore size (79mm on this motor) it should be 7.3hz so nearest on the Link Storm being 7hz ?
Ive done a couple of short logs on the 6hz setting and it does pick up a fair bit of noise but not sure how accurate it is, due to location of inlet manifold its difficult to connect my old copper pipe/stethoscope to listen for knock with my ears so relying on the knock sensor at moment.
Any help welcome
Hey there, I'm running the same knock sensors you have on my 1JZ but was unsure what frequency to set for them, what did you end up settling with?
Thanks for your help
-Nick
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Hello Link forum,
I've got an 05 Subaru Legacy that I'm doing a 1JZ non-vvti swap into and I'm in the process of wiring up my Link Fury. I'm retaining my factory Subaru DBW throttle body and have adapted it to the 1JZ. My friend gave me a great 1JZ basemap for me to use, which I'm trying to add the DBW to and have already enabled it in the Electronic Throttle section, unfortunately his map only shows up to Aux 8, then after that it's all "virtual aux 1, 2, etc", and I can't seem to find anywhere in the software to enable those additional aux outputs, but Aux 9 is required for the use of DBW.
I believe his map was made using a Link Storm, do I need to create a new map using a WRX v10 basemap and then adapt all his parameters to it, or is it possible to add those additional aux outputs to this map?
Thanks in advance for your help,Nick
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On 10/30/2019 at 12:17 AM, cj said:
There is no ABS -> ECU wire. It's a mistake in some of the wiring diagrams (either cluster or ABS) that show the wire also goes to the ECU, it doesnt. Its a Green/Black wire that goes ABS->dash. Pin 23 on the non VDC models and pin 36 on the VDC units (pin # on the ABS end). It does run a standard PWM out signal you could tap into if you didnt feel like connecting to the can bus. Easiest location to get at it is the "OP Connector" which is under the drivers dash in RHD models - its about a 4x4 big square plug that is usually either right above the brake pedal or near/behind the fuse box. It will just be sitting there unplugged form anything - find the Green/Black wire.
I've got the canbus ID's and a fair bit of the data identified I can send you - you should be able to sniff it from the canbus with the factory ECU connected with a $20 chinese canbus sniffer. There are 3x ID's the ECU normally sends out but you wont be able to exactly replicate the factory output from the link as there are some arbitrary counters etc. I suspect (But havent tried it) that if you broadcast the right id's it will keep the dash happy even if the data is mostly blank - I think at a minimum you would just read speed from canbus, and put coolant temp out + maybe some gauge warnings lights if you wanted. All other stuff is likely optional.
This info is very helpful for me and my project. I've got a 2005 Legacy GT that's undergoing a 1JZ swap, I've got most of the mechanical done, the engine wiring harness finished and pinned into the factory B21 and B20 bulkhead connectors, and I'm about to wire in my Link Fury. I'm wanting to retain the factory gauge cluster's functionality as much as possible, keeping the tacho and coolant temp gauges in tact, would you be willing to send me this can info you have as well? It would be greatly appreciated
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Best,
Nick
PC Link locking up/Disconnecting while engine running & No RS232 with G4x?
in G4x
Posted
Okay I think I’m onto something. My customer had a wiring specialties harness and they did not use a capacitor between the coil pack’s 12+ and head ground, we added a 1000uf one and now the ecu stays connected for much much longer! We just did a dyno session and over two hour span we only had it disconnect 3 times total, vs every few minutes.