Vidar
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Posts posted by Vidar
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1 hour ago, koracing said:
Usually 2A or less.
did find the link can lambda, it says 8amp draw on warmup, and recomended fuse is 10amp.
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2 hours ago, koracing said:
The CANJST expansion loom if it's the 4 wire version should be ok sourcing power from the ECU CAN Expansion plug. If the CAN expansion is 5 terminal with power and ground on it (like the CAN2 plug), you should be able to do use the power and ground for the CAN Lambda as it should only pull 2A or less nominally and I beleive they rate those pins at 3A capable.
how much amps do the can lambda draw on warmup?
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have a r33gts here with plug in and is installing can lambda. i se i have 12v and ground in can extension loom. is that enough for can lambda? or is it better to suply power and ground from another place?
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customer who didn't got mesurement on oil press, switched it with fuel press(same sensor) got wrong mesurement on fuel and wrong on oil. will be delivered back too us and shipped back too link.
customer state it measure 0,0 in pressure all time.
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have a customer with faulty sensor. pressure reading has suddenly become wrong.
anybody had failure with these sensors?
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had same problem with pins here. solution was too buy new pins.
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then shimless is way too go.
if there is stock buckets, fuel cut is best thing...
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my suggestion too customer was shimless bucket.
but has anybody had a success with a noisy(what customer want) 2step/launch controll that dont grenade valvetrain?
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have a customer here who realy want sandig still launch controll with pops and bang.
whe have tried earlier, resulting in valve lifters/shim came off.
no its standing on fuel cut, with -5% retard ignition.
but customer thinks its a little boring.
so any god suggestion on lunch controll/two step setting that will not destroy walve lifters and cam.
eninge is 2jz, built bottom end, bc 264 cams, non vvti, garret gtx3584rs gen 2 turbo, link 1000cc injectors, link g4 supralink.
dyno is 620whp on 1.5bar in boost.. boost is 1,5bar at 4000rpm and stable to 8000rpm.
no adjustment on cam gears.
valve lifters are with shim on top btw.
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but stock timing mark on is by the front of engine?
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stupid question, but installed evolink9 g4x on a evo9.
its a complete build engine, cams, pistons, rods and so on.
cant find timing marks on engine, have anybody a good easy way to check base timing? or is stock setting so close its no point? its adjustable cam gears. dont know if it uses cam og crank as base for tdc.
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have a fault here, no spark/ign with vipec ecu connected.
ecu is updated firmware, tried diffrent map(also stock) no spark.
have rpm while "crankink" no trigger errors.
this happend today, we was going too tune it today. it have been running several times before.
if we plug in stock ecu it fires straight up.
does anybode had this problem before?
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Thank you very much:-)
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Have you spoken to Simon?
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So in teory, it is only too plug it un and fire up?
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Friend of me have a 2011 rmk.
He bought a brand new vipec powersport ecu from canada (i think)
We are looking for a base map.
And also, any suggestion on where to connect battery for programming.
Is these ecu's locket with password?
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Is it because movment in registerchain/cam/home vs crank i have problem with ls 5-10 settings also? I've mesured movment, 6-7 degress on cam (12-14 on crank) customer is changing chain and wheels.
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9 hours ago, Adamw said:
It is not highly critical which tooth you remove, but I would suggest removing a tooth that is under the crank sensor when the cam sensor is roughly half way between edges.
Is it best too remove a tooth, or best to fill gap between 2 tooths?
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Have to dissamble water pump and front cover of engine too get into trigger wheel.
So no fast fix.
Any suggestion witch tooth i should remove from wheel? Or should i fill gap between teeth? Also going too make gap betveen tooth same size.
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i see myself on triggerscope that rising egde and falling egde on cam is changing position vs crank trigger
on 4000-4500rpm i see falling on trig 1 occure same as rising on trig 2.
but on idle/cranking i see distance between falling trig1 and rising trig 2.
is trigger 2 priority a solution?
or is it best to modyfi crank trigger wheel too 24-1 and use cam level on trigger 2?
engine is gm lt4, and i suspect that what i see on trigger scope is movment av cam because register chain movment.
what will be the best solution?
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still having som trouble with triggers. car run and idle smooth. running ok up too 4500rpm and get trigger error above 4500rpm.
tried diffrent setting on rpm filtrering, without any luck.
attach triggerscope on problem aera,
attatch pclogging from dyno run.
attach file from ecu.
is it best too modyfy triggerwheel to 24-1?
or is there anything else im missing?
supply to triggers is now 8v from ecu.
is it a option too use ignition 14v?
i see gm sensor have 12v/14v from factory.
4500rpm522nm316whp.pclr Trigger Scope Log 4500rpmtrigger error2021-09-10 12;54;37 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log4000rpm 2021-09-10 1;09;16 pm.llg 4000rpm free rev trig error.llg 4500rpmtrigerror.llg
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Testet with spark plug.
Adamw was right. It had spark.
Found right trigger offset today also. 25 trigger offset
Now its running.
Have some checks too do before dyno.
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have ignition lamp on spark plug 1
it flashes on ign test. it also flashes with chevy ls 5-10 setting. but not on multitooth
cranking logmultitoothrising.llg Trigger Scope Log multitoothrising2021-09-6 11;14;06 am.llg multitoothtriggerrisingtrig 2.pclr
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stable rpm signal, but no spark.
Trigger Scope Log multitooth2021-09-6 10;56;15 am.llg multitoothtrigger.pclr
also attach pc log while cranking with multitooth setting
g4x aux output
in G4x
Posted
anyone know max amp draw on aux output og g4x? both high and low side? and is this same on g5?