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Mindfreakattack

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Posts posted by Mindfreakattack

  2. Momentary Rich AFR when lifting off gas pedal

    in G4+

    Posted

    Good day Sirs, i have a Honda B16 NA engine. everytime i let off the gas pedal, AFR goes as rich as 9.5 before coming back to Idle AFR of 14.7 approximately. The duration it stays on rich AFR before returning to normal coincides with the duration delay i set for Fuel overrun fuel cut (Tq reduction / introduction time), which is currently set to 2seconds.

    While i understood having a rich AFR for a split second doesnt hurt, i am curious to see if theres any adjustability for this part.

    *I tuned it for 2 second delay for torque reduction because somehow it gave me better drivabilty when shifting gear and decelerating. Tried reducing to 1 second or zero delay, the car was jerky whenever throttle was let off.

    Any info would be very much appreciated :) Have a great day guys!!

    1840639171_ScreenShot2023-01-17at10_38_34am.thumb.png.8c6486abbfd7e08405d8ac83ec94c473.png

    16Jan23 updated fuel.pclr drivability check log.llg

  8. E-Throttle for Honda B16

    in G4+

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Can you attach the map that was used to generate the log, the one you have attached is in open loop.

    Hi Adam, its actually currently running in open loop. As ive not fully sorted the issue, i was thinking i should leave it in open loop till i get it sorted then switch to closed loop.

  9. Crank DutyCycle on Idle status

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi Adam, So i redid the throttle body adjustment and tuned the cold to warm idle. Still observe drop in RPM during AC clutch engagement. :( Any further advise?

    i guess something worth mentioning is that when the engine is still relatively cold (40-50deg ECT), the rpm doesnt drop so drastically till almost stalling. Is it because at that point of time, the idle target rpm is still at 1300, thus the AC load cant drag it down much?

     

  10. E-Throttle for Honda B16

    in G4+

    Posted

    On 11/16/2021 at 1:21 PM, Adamw said:

    Yes you have the right idea.  However, yoiu will notice the E-throttle target table can only be adjusted in 0.5% steps, whereas the base position table can do 0.1% steps.  So you will often end up with small values in the base position table at warm idle - say <0.5%, but the bulk of the throttle opening should come from the E-throttle target table.  

    Thanks Adam for tips, so i managed to tune up the car from cold start to warm idle. It idles well with the e-throttle target set at 2.0%, base position required was 0.3% to hit the Idle RPM Target. Everything is running fine and good in open loop, i also adjusted the idle up for engine fan, and it compensates for it very well with 0.5%.

    But these were only good UNTIL i turn on the A/C. with A/C on, the idle RPM tend to drop a fair bit before eventually catching up with target. I had to adjust the idle up for AC to 0.4% in order to achieve Idle RPM Target. but no matter what i do, the car always drop too low in its rpm when the AC clutch kicks in. I understand in the case of cable throttle body, the derivative gain MIGHT be able to help with the onset of load during A/C clutch engagement, is there anything i can do for e throttle?

    Also, during the drive, the car tends to stall whenever coming to a stop.

    This is my first time tuning with e throttle, any help would be very much appreciated. :)

    amos 22nov tune.pclr 22nov amos log.llg

  11. E-Throttle for Honda B16

    in G4+

    Posted

    So im helping my mate sort out his high idle on a honda B16B. His car idles at almost 2000RPM on cold start (typically about 30Deg Celcius here in Singapore). I saw that his E-throttle table top row were mostly Zeros, and seems like his idle was controlled by his 'Idle Base Position Table'. From what i read from the help file, i understand they are telling us to make the car idle by adjusting the top row of E-Throttle target table. And the Idle Base Position table should only be touched to help with cold start.

    Im planning to get his car to idle with warm engine with his 'Idle base position table' zero-ed out and purely by controlling the throttle opening with E-Throttle Target table. And subsequently do a tune from cold start to dial in his 'Idle Base Position table'

    Am i doing it right? is there anything i should be looking out for? :)

    Thanks in advance.

     

    amos 16 stock tune.pclr

  12. Igntion timing for VTEC

    in G4+

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Adamw said:
    1. When the Vtec is engaged at the correct RPM, the VE will increase.  That means there is more air and fuel in the cylinder, and cylinder pressure during combustion will increase more.  The flame front can travel faster through the more densely packed mixture so generally the ignition would need less advance with higher cylinder pressure.  
    2. With two separate tables it means you can change the VTEC switch point later without having to re-tune it.  I dont usually bother, I finish the tune after I have already found the best switch point and it generally wont be changed.  

    Thank you very much Adam.. :) understood. Thanks for the very clear explaination!!

  13. Igntion timing for VTEC

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi, have some qjestion regarding VTEC tuning.

    1. may i ask if the ignition timing is normally retarded or advanced when the engine cross into VTEC? I just got a Honda civic with a B16A (updgraded with B16B internals) in it.. downloaded the map and realised the ignition map seems to be 5-8deg more retarded in VTEC than in Low cam. Was thinking it should be advancing timing since the engine is higher in rpm.. would want to have the timing advanced to support combustion. 

    2. My Current map is set to switch between ignition tables 1 and 2 during VTEC engagement. Ive seen maps where there is only 1 table for ign. In this case, whether u r in vtec or not, we are using that table's timing correct? If this is correct, why would anyone want to do this? Pure simplicity of tune? 

     

     

  18. wiring AEM Wideband for logging

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi, so i checked the voltage using multimeter, the voltage was 0 with the wideband guage showing 14.7 at idle. so i guess my wiring is causing the issue. I tried removing the connector (i diy-ed out of electronic pins) from the ECU expansion slot, it measured zero, so i measured the voltage coming out from the AEM guage (the supposed signal sender form AEM to ECU) and it measured 1.16 to 1.2v.

    Anyway may i check what the error value im supposed to have for my AEM x series?

  20. wiring AEM Wideband for logging

    in G4+

    Posted

    Hi guys, i am trying to rig up my AEM Wideband to the ECU for logging. I had the Grd and Signal connection connected from the Guage to the ECU as shown in the picture. For set up, i selected AEM Wideband UEGA. But unable to get a correct reading. The AFR just freeze at 1 lambda :( May i know if theres any known fault for wiring AEM to G4+? Or any knock fault for the current AEM UEGA calibration?

    20210822_202607.jpg

    20210822_234123.thumb.jpg.130c56f35a318647cc545fbf503fc0d2.jpg

  21. Crank DutyCycle on Idle status

    in G4+

    Posted

     

    Hi guys, so i reattempted to tune my idle ISC for open loop, followed by Closed Loop (both starting from cold engine). I keep having to reduce the base idle position to values well below 30% with the AC off. The car drives perfectly fine with the AC switched off. after i applied the advise given by Adam earlier on the 4 pointers, i kind of have car idle and drive (decel) MUCH better, but only with the AC off.

    I did a couple of trial and errors, and concluded on my end that the only way to get the car get back to idle target rpm nicely without too much dip, or any rpm hunting is to have almost 25% AC Step set. Anyone has any idea why is this the case?

    Attached is my current tune files, and log file of me on warm idle with AC off and AC on, each with 3 x free rev, note how the RPM dip below target RPM with the AC on.

  22. Crank DutyCycle on Idle status

    in G4+

    Posted

    58 minutes ago, dx4picco said:

    Because in closed loop everything is compensated live, throttle position interact with igntition timing. 

    You do not want to rely on the computer compensating for you. 

    Yes you are right the table is the same. Because closed loop uses the base values that we call open loop.

    You must think like, I tune open loop and once everything runs fine I turn on closed loop to compensate/correct for small variation due to temps, humidity, elevation etc. 

    Okie... thank you very much for the sharing :)

  23. Crank DutyCycle on Idle status

    in G4+

    Posted

    HI AdamW, may i ask why do we want to do open loop tune for the idle from cold to normal operating temp, before we tune the Closed loop from cold to normal operating temp again. From what i see, the Open loop or Closed loop shares the exact same Base Idle position map. Which mean when i do my tune for closed loop, i am actually changing the value i did for my open loop. doesnt that defeat the purpose of me doing open loop tune?

  24. Crank DutyCycle on Idle status

    in G4+

    Posted

    So i updated the map with 400rpm lockout and enabled speed lockout. Now the car doesnt drop as much in rpm during decel ;) am very grateful for ur guidance. I am gonna activate the idle ignition control next.. hoping to fine tune the rpm for idle ;)

  25. Crank DutyCycle on Idle status

    in G4+

    Posted

    May i also clarify, my Idle position was set to 18 for 80Deg ECT, because that number (18) gave me idle rpm i wanted on the rpm target. The 35 you saw on the idle position during warm was with me having the AC switched on. Which i had the AC stepper set to 15 to achieve my rpm target. Does this make sense to you? or am i missing something off the formulae :)

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