Anfurnyy
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Posts posted by Anfurnyy
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7 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
When you say rolling antilag do you mean the Latched Launch control mode? If so you could set up your launch control as the latched mode and one of your GP RPM Limits as your fixed RPM launch.
Well that's the confusion. I see an "antilag" setup which looks like you can set it up to "arm" with a specific DI ( DI4 in my case) and then activate it with a specific parameter (in this case say 95%+ TPS).
So the behavior would be it would arm the Anti-lag but not activate it until I go 95+ throttle.
Or is that wrong way of thinking about that?
The launch control for the track I would just want to setup so that anytime I have the clutch pressed in and give it 100% throttle it goes into launch control
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with the G4+ is it possible to have both the Launch Control and Rolling antilag setup?
Scenario is that i want to be able to use Launch control using the clutch switch configured on my DI 2, for when i'm at the track, and use a Dedicated button my console for Rolling antilag wired to DI 4 without them interfering with each other.Thanks!
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Just an update, we were able to get the car started with an offset of -95° and the car starts while cranking with the rewired 12v source.
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I believe that we got this figured out.
I didn't have the coil pack harness relay wired to a 12v switched source that had 12v when cranking as well as "Run" modes.
Rewired the switched 12v to one that does and now the timing light flashes, and the car seems to want to start while cranking. I'll report back after I've got everything finalized and actually tested and verified that it actually starts.
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5 hours ago, neil brown said:
Is the plug touching metal as that's the return path otherwise won't spark
Do the coil packs require an ignitor separately or have they an ignitor built into to them.
Did you set up the dwell times in the ecu
. Dwell times
8V 5.34
10V 4.69
12V 3.93
14V 3.40
16V 3.40
During testing it was not. However, if I have the plugs pulled and set inside the coil pack without touching metal and do a spark test in the software, they spark successfully. I can't remember what my dwell is for sure but it i remember it being right in that range at 12v, these are R35 coils and as far as I've read they have an internal igniter.
2 hours ago, Adamw said:Have you confirmed there is 12V present at the coil the whole time?
I tried to check this yesterday however I don't think I know how to do it. I put my positive multi-meter probe into the power and then tried the negative in both the ground and signal wires and both times they shoot to around -.02v and.
I'm assuming the correct way is to put the positive in the 12v and then just ground the other probe to a good chassis ground?
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8 hours ago, Adamw said:
It looks like the ecu is happy with the trigger, it has stable dwell and no cuts so the ecu would be commanding spark and I dont see any reason for no spark.
Can you pull a spark plug out and watch it while cranking to confirm.
Adam, I tested this, this morning and verified there is no spark while cranking. However, there is right when I let off the ignition. I recorded this, if you look closely right when I let off "starting" on the ignition you can see a spark.
This is cylinder #1.
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Having issues with getting my car started before and after
1g dsm with vr4 PNP.Converted the car to COP using genuine r35 hitachi coils, and a harness made from Velocity Element/Brewed motorsports.
I have the outputs switched to run sequential/direct fire ignition.
The car has ran on this setup before, just without the 12-1 trigger but still had issues starting then.- Power for Coils is connected via relay, and fuse directly off a remote battery post as battery is relocated to rear. Using 10ga, relay is grounded to chassis, COP ground is grounded to chassis and cylinder head also.
- Trigger is a 12-1, it seems to be configured correctly (I think)
- Scopes seem to look fine
- The Factory Trigger wheel on the Intake cam has been modified per instructions from trigger Manufacturer
- Ignition Test fires coils just fine, verified with test light
- Test light does NOT fire while cranking. Occasionally it will blink when i let off ignition. *Note, in the video i SAY its cranking at 500 but its only cranking at about 200rpm.
*** VIDEO HERE ***
- During cranking voltage drops to mid 11v.
- Car has a new starter, did this with old starter also.
The main issue seems to be coils ARENT firing while cranking, and will only fire as soon as i let off the ignition/cranking.
it doesn't seem the ECU loses power while cranking since im able to get logs but i could be wrong.
Newest Trigger scope.llg Failed start 12-1 trigger.llg Anthony Hudelson - Revision 3.4.1 12-1 trigg.pclr
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58 minutes ago, Adamw said:
Yeah I think it is probably just fuel related settings. With petrol on 2200cc injectors your pulse widths are so small there is a very fine balance between getting enough fuel in to get it to fire or completely flooding it. With wasted spark you had a spark 1 revolution earlier so less chance of "flooding" it.
A couple of comments:
- Your MAP sensor is reading wrong. Fixing this will mess up the rest of your tune however.
- Pre-crank prime of 40ms is a ton for petrol with a 2200cc injector. 40ms is what my evo has for 550cc injectors so I would drop that to about 10ms.
- The "first crank enrich" may be excessive, try that around 50%.
- In regards to your comment about the injector timing - with large injectors like this you have poor atomisation, lots of liquid and less vapour, injecting later when the valve is open and there is the highest airflow in the port often does give an improvement in this scenario - especially as ethanol content increases. So if it does help with starting then I would ignore your tuner and give it what works best. You can add an extra column at 501RPM or whatever so that timing is only later during cranking if you need to. It is also more typical to advance injector timing at higher RPM so not too sure what the tuner is on about here.
Thanks for all the insight! I really appreciate it. We haven't made to the cranking enrichment part of the tune yet but maybe we should have. Those values are from when I was messing with the car initially and I guess I forgot to change them.
I'll look into the MAP sensor issue, it's an AEM 5 bar.
I'll also get the first crank enrich and pre crank primes changed up!
Thank you guys, hopefully this helps get it running
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I forgot to add that im also using R35 gtr, Genuine/Real Hitachi coil pack as well.
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3 hours ago, Confused said:
Try adding or subtracting 360 from your current Trigger Offset. You may be trying to ignite on the exhaust stroke now.
I tried that but still didn't work for me.
Originally I didn't realize that I had the CAS 180° out. With it flipped and the offset at 5 the car absolutely would not start ever.
Set offset to 360.and the car fired up only after holding it perfectly for that 3-4 seconds.
Fixed the CAS so it is now correct, moved the offset back to 5 and it still only starts if I hold it perfect as mentioned above.
I don't know if some of my cranking fuel/warmup enrichments need adjusted or what.
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I wanted to follow up on this. I was able to get the Coil on plug setup installed however the car has a VERY hard time starting.
Cars fuel pre-crank primes and runs with turning over.
Verified there's fuel in the cylinder (plugs were wet with fuel)
Verified the Harness at the Coil connector harness is getting 12v on all coils.
8ga Power wires off remote battery post, to 10amp fuse (not blown), then into relay for harness. Relay is triggered by the ecu switched 12v.
Relay is chassis grounded
New harness directly to ECU using pins mentioned below, No factory wiring used.
Pulled the Coils each one by one and tested them all one by one for spark, making sure the correct coils were triggering per the "Test coil" in PC link.
(ign 1 - Cylinder 1, ign 2- cylinder 2, etc) They all had spark I could physically see.
Verified trigger offset, and verified base timing using the factory CAS. Uses the single OEM trigger wheel. Trigger offset is set at 5 currently which the car ran fine with before.
ignition Config is setup for Direct spark
Wiring is as follows:
Used IGN 1-4 Outputs
Pin 54 - IGN 1 - Formerly IGN 1 & 4
Pin 55 - IGN 2 - Formerly IGN 2 & 3
Pin 56 - Formerly Fuel pump relay pin, Pin 7
Pin 57 - FPR Solenoid Output (unused)
Fuel Pump relay pin moved to Inj 6
Aux 2 Used for Tach output
Things to note:
Car started just fine before coil on plug
it seems its starts most often when i crank it for sometime between 3-4 seconds. It has to be perfect or it wont start.
Sometime it does pop out the exhaust like the exhaust valves are open during an ignition event.
I messed with the Injection timing and seemed to get SOME headway. Factory file has injection timing at 320* BTDC, my tuner has mine in a 3d table around that at cranking. I switched the cranking Injection timing to a little more retarded (200* BTDC) and it seemed to start up about 80% of the time. He informed me that this was wrong and it should be more advanced at the lower airflow like while starting and later during cruising and higher airflows.
Ive attached my current tune file and some trigger scopes of both the car starting and failing to start as well as a log file that i took while trying to start.
Any insight is appreciated2nd scope (no start).llg car started scope.llg Anthony Hudelson - Revision 3.2.pclr no start 3 with cop.llg
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3 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
The Aux outputs are capable of producing a 12V square wave as they pull to ground and have a pullup to 12V
Okay great, thank you.
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So moving to a coil on plug system raises another equation.
The 1g DSM/ Vr4 gets it's tach singal from a pin on the Transistor unit for the OEM coil packs. It sounds like it uses the combination of ignition signals of the waste spark system to generate the signal to the ECU and dash
My question is I planned on deleting the PTU and running the tach signal from the ECU to the factory tach using an AUX output but I can't seem to find out if the factory dash uses a 12v, 5v square wave signal or something else.
Are the Aux output capable of generating that 12v signal on the PNP units?
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15 minutes ago, Vaughan said:
Ignition 4 on the VR4 plugin is fine to use, it uses Injector 6 for the hold power relay instead of ignition 4 like the EVO 1-3 plugin does.
Perfect, thanks! Exactly what I needed to know.
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Looking to move to a Direct Spark and COP setup for my PNP G4+ vr4link.
It looks like IGN 3 is used for the factory fuel pump relay and IGN 4 is used for the OEM Fuel Pressure solenoid (unused in my car)
Ive read that other PNP ECU's such as the Evo 1-3, have limitations on IGN 4 but wanted to verify if there were any for mine.
I plan on just moving the fuel pump relay to another output (Aux 2 or Aux 6) and wiring in coils 3 and 4 to IGN 3 and IGN 4 for this setup. Ive looked in the help file and it looks like Aux 2 is able to be used for Fuel pump.
Will that work?
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3 hours ago, Adamw said:
Huh? The lambda is reporting the measured lambda of the exhaust gas after combustion. It's within 1% of target because the CLL is pulling 8% fuel out to get you there. If CLL was off then you would be 8% richer than target.
Your lambda is working ok in the log. Either give us a log of it failing or have a look yourself what lambda 1 status and lambda 1 error is reporting when it happens.
Ah okay now I understand. Sorry.
The Lambda shut shut off log shows the sensor zeroing out for half the log. The error status just says "lambda average error" the entire time its like that.
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
6K narrow works best on my Evo7. Gain is typically <5.
I might have to give that a go. When I did the math for the frequency it showed something like 6.8khz so I went with 7.
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9 hours ago, Øyvind Ryeng said:
I'm probably running a different sensor (OEM Bosch/Volvo from 1991), and with a gain channel value of "12" I'm easily seeing rational numbers over the whole range. On my setup the engine noise increases rapidly from 4000 RPM on up, but looking at the plugs it's not detonating as far as I can see. Cylinder knock level gain for cylinder 1 -> 4: 1.08, 0.88, 0.88, 1.00. This is my first time setting up knock sensing, and I was impressed with how smoothly everything went by following the instructions in the help file.
So I think I might have gotten it figured out after reading the Help files. I might have had my timing set too low and it was actually retarded enough that the knock window was happening in the next ignition cycle? I'm not 100% sure on that but I advanced it enough to keep the knock window before top dead center instead of after? Or maybe the smarter move would have been to reduce the knock window from 10° to around 5°?
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6 minutes ago, Øyvind Ryeng said:
I'm probably running a different sensor (OEM Bosch/Volvo from 1991), and with a gain channel value of "12" I'm easily seeing rational numbers over the whole range. On my setup the engine noise increases rapidly from 4000 RPM on up, but looking at the plugs it's not detonating as far as I can see. Cylinder knock level gain for cylinder 1 -> 4: 1.08, 0.88, 0.88, 1.00. This is my first time setting up knock sensing, and I was impressed with how smoothly everything went by following the instructions in the help file.
I'll check out the help file and see if that helps fix things. I know without the balance shafts these cars can vibrate a bit more. Hopefully I can get this squared away
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Ive swapped out my 1g dsm OEM knock sensor for a Bosch wideband or flat response (part number 261231006)
Ive got it configured as a 7k hz narrowband channel, and ive got the gain lowered to 50 and it still seems to be putting out really high knock levels in the midrange causing it to pull timing.
I have soldered a jumper to and from the correct pins, and verified that there is no polarity on the sensor.
its a 6 bolt 4g63, with the balance shafts removed, sensor is torqued into the OEM knock sensor location as well and connected via the factory knock harness.
Could i be doing something wrong or do I just have a really noisy engine, or am i actually getting knock or is my ignition table too aggressive in the midrange? I tried to make it pretty soft as i was just trying to get fueling dialed in.Any help or advice is appreciated.
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New to tuning and im trying to get my 1g dsm tuned myself. Ive been running into some issues with Close Loop corrections and my CAN Lambda sensor shutting off.
Issue 1 - it seems that my closed loop corrections are pretty far off. Various places in my logged (most notably in boost) the corrections say they are pulling 8% fuel OUT but when i do the math the the AFR is actually within 1% of target. You can see this in the attached log @ 1:30-1:50. The only thing i can think of is that my closed loop gain and update tables are too low and not keeping up with the fuel changes? My wideband sensor is a brand new Genuine Bosch that came with the CAN Lambda module and its placed about 4 inches after the turbine housing of the turbo in the downpipe. i had to compress this file since it was a larger file and exceeded the size limit
Issue 2 - 3 Times now my wideband sensor will stop transmitting ALL AFR/lambda to the ecu. The ecu reads 0 as does my CANGauge. This has really only happened while im trying to get into boost for logging. It has fixed itself each time but I dont know how it fixes itself. I verified that the bosch wideband connection is secure, as well as the CAN wire connectors from the Lambda module in the engine bay and none of the pins are loose from what i can see or feel. Could it be that the lambda module is getting too hot? Its mounted to the car just behind the driver side headlight. Ive attached a log of this as well.
Any help is appreciated!
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18 minutes ago, koracing said:
No, most older designed bottom/adapter boards won't take advantage of the additional possible outputs. Not sure at what point the extra 10 pins were added to the plug-ins that include the 2nd CAN bus and the 11-16 aux outputs, but I've seen several plug-ins that don't have a socket on the adapter board for using these - including the VR4 Link. Only using a switched 12v supply for the trigger positive (pin 85) is the best bet in your case.
I got switched 12v applied to pin 85 and it works as intended now. Thank you guys a ton for helping!
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8 minutes ago, koracing said:
Yes the outputs end up at ground when the key is off on all the Aux1-8 outputs. If you have Aux 11-16 available they do not do this, however.
I don't think this plug n play has those outputs. I've only got 1-8 unless I'm misunderstanding the software pinouts.
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So I got the relay wiring switched to switched ground however when I key the engine off, both fans turn on and stay on until I either disconnect battery or turn the key to "on"
I'm assuming the ISC outputs are pulled to ground when the key is in the off position?
I did verify that the engine fan RPM zero timeout was set to 1 or 0 seconds.
vr4link PNP Launch Control and Rolling Antilag
in G4+
Posted
Gotcha! So if I wanted rolling launch control, it needs to be setup under latched launch then?