Amrit Sidhu
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Posts posted by Amrit Sidhu
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Is there any difference if I wire the SSR as following assuming the terminals and polarity are correct on the SSR:
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It is exactly the one pictured in the post. I took the photo from their Amazon listing. I didnt think of mislabeled pinouts because the haltech diagram above (copied from another thread) shows the same polarity on #2.
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Thanks Adam, I was trying to figure out why I wasnt receiving anything on CAN monitor on realdash app. I was overthinking the setup using Dash2Pro preset.
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I know this has been covered more than enough times and I read through almost all posts and threads about PWM, SSR Relays and wiring but I cant resolve this issue.
I have my Spal fan wired to a standard relay that is controlled by AC Fan in G4X using Inj 8 (default settings). I had recently ordered a SSR 40A DC to DC relay pictured below and re-wired the fan. I had initially connected fan +ve direct to battery and fan -ve to terminal #2. I then connect the fan as pictured in the diagram and it stays ON the entire time. I double checked the wiring on the relay and it matches the picture which others here have used with success. When I run manual PWM ON test, I can see the led on relay blinking as expected. Only after removing fan negative from SSR or +ve from battery would turn off the fan even when the led on SSR is off and ignition is off. Forgive my ignorance, I just recently started playing with SSR relays with the goal to run the rad fan at different speeds. I know I have made a mistake here somewhere but cant figure out what.
I then switched fan +ve to a regular relay that would only turn on the fan when ignition is ON. This also results in same behavior with fan always ON but now with Ignition turned ON.
Relay used:
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On 4/25/2023 at 5:33 PM, Adamw said:
Connect CAN H from the ECU to CAN H on the adapter, connect CAN L on the ECU to CAN L on the adapter.
Does the ground on the USB CAN type 2 needs to be grounded as well?
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Sorry I didn't update the thread. I finally got it after adjusting offset to 113*. The main issue was however the fuel pump control. I had done the fuel relay mod which wasn't triggering the fuel pump when cranking. The fuel pump would prime fine at ignition but won't turn on at cranking. So I had to change from 3 speed control to standard relay and master fuel trim was reduced to 4 ms eventually. Using Adam's layouts, on Cold Start page there were adjustments to be made to fine tune the idle. Thank you everyone who helped with this so far.
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It just fired up when set master fuel to 10ms but ran VERY RICH! I tried bringing it down to 9 and then 8ms and now it refuses to start again. I didn't change the offset yet because I wanted to try one thing at a time.
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I tried with -253 and seems to be no different. Tried again with 107 after and same. What should I be checking next?
When using 107* every now and then once in a while it will sound like wanting to start for a split second.
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I am new to the forums here and seeking help with starting the engine. I have read and searched for trigger issues and starting problems and unable to find solution to my setup.
The car has not run in about 15 months and in that time I have done several upgrades, mainly:
- Link G4 NGTR ECU
- Greddy CAM Gears (set at 0 degree adjustment)
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PRP Crank and Cam Trigger Kit (Crank is TRIG1, Cam is TRIG2)
- CAM's PIN was oriented facing the dot on cam pulley's timing mark.
- Crank had one tooth shaved opposite to crank key per PRP's instructions
- 2 x 10 bar syltech pressure sensors (not working atm)
- Bosch 1000cc injectors
- Fluidampr 610911 Harmonic Damper/Pulley
- GT2860 -5 twins
- Link CAN-LAMBDA kit on CAN1
As I start the car, it cranks over endlessly without any signs of firing. I have attached the tune file and several trigger scope files to help with the issue. The trigger offset is set to 107* by a friend who also has experience tuning cars. To reach 107* the CAM plate (the one that holds the cam sensor) was turned clockwise all the way. I believe this is known to work in other similar setups.
The engine speed is read around 200rpm when cranking and by understanding of trigger scope tells me that they are also setup correctly.
Timing is locked at 10* and confirmed with timing light.
amrit_gtr _initial_tune.pclx PC Datalog - 2022-07-17 5;32;30 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog_0717_1.llgx TriggerScopeLog_0717_2.llgx TriggerScopeLog_0717_3.llgx
Audio clip attached when cranking
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Sorry to revive an old thread, what is the white CAN BUS connector called? I am looking for a visually matching connector on Digikey and RS Components but not sure how to narrow down the search.
crank no start, now starts then dies.
in G4x
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Try master fuel trim at 10 ms and see if it wants to crank. It'll need to be tuned eventually in fuel table.