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Flex

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Posts posted by Flex

  1. 4 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    If you have a G4+ plug-in and are using the onboard MAP sensor then it should be 4Bar. 

    Thanks for coming back to me. The owner said that the original 4bar sensor was faulty and the unit ended up going back to Link and came back with a 7bar map sensor fitted to which is was mapped with. 

    It sounds a bit dubious, but I can only go on what he's told me. 

     

  2. On 10/15/2023 at 11:54 PM, Adamw said:

    There are many of the basic fundamentals setup incorrectly in this map, I suggest you start again.  The biggest issue is the MAP sensor calibration is wrong, this is the most important sensor as it has a large influence on nearly all control functions in the ecu, this is why MAP sensor calibration is listed as one of the first procedures before the engine is even started.  The fuel pressure sensor calibration is wrong also. 

    So you are going to have to start from scratch as fuel, ignition and boost control will all be wrong if they have been tuned with these sensors calibrated wrong.  Once you have those set correctly and verified, the fuel system type should be set to FP sensor, the charge temp table needs to be populated with realistic values, the IAT trim table should be turned off, and the real injector flow rate (slope) should be entered.  I would also simplify the fuel and ignition tables significantly to make your life easier, start with like 6 rows and 8 columns, then only add more resolution if it is found to be needed as you work through the tune.  That should give you a better point to start tuning from.  

    Hi Adam,  

    When you said the MAP sensor isn't calibrated correctly, can you elaborate please? I've tried to calibrate the sensor, but it threw up and error due to being outside the tolerance of 5kPa. 

    I've since looked into using custom calibration using cal 4, but I'm reluctant as the 7 bar setting should be for Link sensors if I'm not mistaken. 

  3. I've had a go at calibrating the MAP sensor and I'm getting the message "MAP Sensor Calibration command failed: Current MAP <5kPa or >5kPa of baro reading. 

    I brought up the MAP and BAP gauges and the MAP seems to be out. 

    BAP = 98.6 kPa

    MAP = 89 kPa.

    Any ideas on how to correct this?

    I've been told by the owner that the ECU was originally sent back due to a faulty MAP sensor and Link had replaced it with a 7 bar sensor. When the calibration was attempted, the hose was disconnected to the MAP sensor and blanked off at the engine side. 

  4. On 10/17/2023 at 9:10 PM, Confused said:

    The Help within PC Link is VERY good, so that's a good place to start, a lot of concepts are explained here, and in context with the ECU you're using, which is useful!

     

    Also, there's resources like High Performance Academy and Evans Performance Academy which are more "structured" training via online videos, webinars and courses.

    Thanks Confused, since I last posted I have been lost in a HPA EFI Fundamentals and Practical Tuning course. I watched through all the courses once and I'm around 30% on my way going back through the courses again, but this time, putting all of the information into my own words in a hardback A4 book.

    It feels like I'm back at school, but it's honestly the way best way to go about getting the information to stick for me.

     

     

  5. On 10/15/2023 at 9:25 PM, Rossobianconero said:

    If you are using modelled fuel equation, and you have a FP sensor you should change your fuel system type from map reference to fp sensor. I usually only use modelled with a fuel temp sensor as well but, I'm guessing you can get decent results without it to. If that O2 sensor is reading correctly you are way way to lean to be on boost, are you using any type of knock detection while doing this? Your charge temp correction doesn't looks right, and when you are using modelled you don't use a IAT correction for the fuel. If it is as lean as the O2 show, I would abort the run, put more fuel on the fuel map and try again. 

     

    On the boost control, you have to setup the boost target base on something else that MAP or MGP, a very common map would be TP vs RPM. And on the wastegate map, you use boost target on one and RPM on the other axis.

     

    On 10/15/2023 at 11:54 PM, Adamw said:

    There are many of the basic fundamentals setup incorrectly in this map, I suggest you start again.  The biggest issue is the MAP sensor calibration is wrong, this is the most important sensor as it has a large influence on nearly all control functions in the ecu, this is why MAP sensor calibration is listed as one of the first procedures before the engine is even started.  The fuel pressure sensor calibration is wrong also. 

    So you are going to have to start from scratch as fuel, ignition and boost control will all be wrong if they have been tuned with these sensors calibrated wrong.  Once you have those set correctly and verified, the fuel system type should be set to FP sensor, the charge temp table needs to be populated with realistic values, the IAT trim table should be turned off, and the real injector flow rate (slope) should be entered.  I would also simplify the fuel and ignition tables significantly to make your life easier, start with like 6 rows and 8 columns, then only add more resolution if it is found to be needed as you work through the tune.  That should give you a better point to start tuning from.  

    Thanks for the feedback gents, I have relayed the information to my buddy and have tried to get the car booked in at the tuning garage that look after my car as they can be trusted.

    In the meantime, can anyone recommend a resource of information for me to learn more about mapping? I'd really like to learn the ins and outs as it's something that interests me as I have a fair amount of knowledge about engines in general, just not the mapping side of things. 

  6. On 10/10/2023 at 10:19 PM, Confused said:

    A man with one watch always knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure.

    I think you need to confirm the manifold pressure with another known good gauge/sensor, so that you can eliminate (or confirm) your findings.

    You can also record in the logs MGP (Manifold Gauge Pressure) parameter and switch the display units to match your physical gauge(s) so that you can more easily compare.

    If you share a copy of the tune and a PC Log (with all parameters defined) where this issue occurs, this will help us narrow down the issue better than just a screenshot of what you think is appropriate :)

     

    image.thumb.png.5210ab95eb46d3a33e0bf5c297443212.png

    Apologies for the late reply, I've been busy with work and left this for the weekend to come back to. 

    I couldn't workout how to change the display units, but I followed your instructions regarding the additional parameters for logging.

    I've attached a new log as well as the map. 

    The car was running very lean which was making me very uneasy so we stopped, took a break and then came back to it. AFR's were hitting 20 on idle so I ended up adding fuel on the mixture map to get us back. By adding more fuel, the car came on boost, but was still being held back. I feel it's definitely a lack of fuel issue. The only thing that hasn't been changed in the fuel system is the FPR.

    Fuel pressure was lower this time (248 kPa) around so it's worth taking a look at that. 

    Thanks for the help, I'd love to see this car running as it should as the owner is a bit low at the moment and I know it would lift his spirits. 

    VINNY 15OCT.llg Vinny MAP.pclr

  7. 37 minutes ago, Confused said:

    This is Manifold Absolute Pressure, so 140 kPa MAP is about 6psi (or 0.4 bar) boost.

     

    Ah, right. I'm glad I posted here as I did wonder if I was missing something. 

    Thanks for clearing that one up. I guess it's back to the drawing board which is annoying as I had hoped I found the problem. 

  8. Howdy chaps, I'm wondering if anyone out there can shed some light on an issue a friend is having with their Mitsubishi Evo 6. The car has a misfire when coming on boost which felt like ignition cut so I did a log and noticed the MAP reading was very different to what the mechanical gauge was reading on our run. 

    While we were out, the car wouldn't exceed 0.4psi on the mechanical gauge, but on the log it looked to be hitting 22psi. 

    Fault MAP sensor? If that's the case, I take it the ECU has to be sent back to Link?

    VIN LOG .png

  9. 1 hour ago, Confused said:

    CANBUS is definitely the way to go. AEM wideband controllers are notorious for having pretty terrible analogue outputs, so if you can avoid that by using CANBUS, do it every time!

    Perfect, thanks. When you say you can avoid using the analogue outputs, I presume that's using the AEMnet. 

    Just to confirm, I'll need the CANJST plug for this? 

  10. I'm struggling to decide what's the best option is to wire a AEM Series X Wideband into the Link G4X. 

    Do I go into one of the CAN ports, use the XS Plug in expansion loom or connect the Series X to the original o2 wires on the engine harness (if that can even be done)? 

    All of the above is going into a MKIV Supra. 

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