CalebjW02

Okay that makes sense. Ill make a google drive later if you could check it out for me, since you have worked with lots of mr2s. Its driving around well, starts are a little rough. I want to get my knock sensor and knock control all figured out, just so i can start boosting more and seeing about knock.

Noted, Thanks. Here's the fuel table shrunk down and the warm up and accel enrichment tables fixed somewhat. Now ill just drive around not in boost or low to watch my lam avg and lam targ. Also I have a link Fuel pressure sensor but im thinking i have the pins all janky which isn't making a good enough connection, any clue how i could get more link style pins. the ones i got off amazon didn't fit the sensor well. And i also recently started getting a code for the ect sensor not in range. That wasn't there for the first couple weeks of doing stuff with the link. Im getting a message that my log file is over the size limit even though i know its not. Weird...

Yes the motor internals are all stock, I have a rebuilt turbo with a bigger compressor wheel. I will make sure its in modelled fuel mode for now. The Map sensor is on its own port coming from manifold. So i should go back and take away most of my fuel table, and start with a smaller portion? Then i can start adding more cells or do I just not need that many? Thank you guys

Yes it’s really a Link 4 bar, possibly it’s where I have the sensor reading from. It’s right into the intake manifold under the throttle body. Okay I’ll do that, I was having trouble with cold starts and I thought that helped some, guess I was wrong there. Thank you. And I do believe I messed with trigger offset quite a bit, I understand you need the timing mark to stay out while ranging in rpms.

Hey there Link community, Im just looking for some help as Im a just in the learning process of tuning and how the link software works. My teacher told me after taking a look at my log files, that its better that i stay out of boost for now. He is just so busy with race cars in the summer time i cant get much help from him right now. Any things you guys can point out for me straight off the bat. I dont want too get too far into my tuning because i have plans for a bigger fuel system and turbo when i have the time and funds. Thanks for any help! st185 rev 2.pclx PC Datalog - 2023-07-26 7;58;20 am.llgx

So It looks like I have the IDL (pink wire in my case) wires up to tps signal…. I guess that’s prolly not right. It’s getting dark out now, I’m going to switch those around in the morning and see what is does. Thank you

So my TPS has all four of those wires currently wired up in the tps plug, so IDL isn’t used?? I know I have the signal ground hooked up right but it’s soldered to all the other signal wires then going into ecu. I’m going to maybe switch it over to the expansion loom signal ground

It is a 4 pin, I didn’t re wire it but I did mess with the signal grounds and 5v outputs and I have them all tied together going into the correct spots in the ecu. I think it works off 5 ohm though because when I have ohm meter connected between VTA and E2 then it goes up to around 4.8 ohms. I thinks what’s causing the issue is where it cuts out to infinity for the half second when pressing down on throttle. Thanks for the replies so far!

So the tps voltage at idle it shows under 1 volt, but as soon as I crack the throttle the slightest bit it jumps to 4.99v and the tps % main jumps right to 100%… even though I really only have the throttle barely open. I did the oem tps calibration and it’s all in spec. Other than where it cuts to infinity ohms for half a second when opening. Any ideas.? I can’t really do any tuning with it always showing 100%

So I’ve already gotten a new TPS and installed and calibrated it. Using my ohmmeter I verified it’s in the correct position, but one thing I notice is how when I slowly open the throttle and watch the ohms rise. It all the sudden cuts out to infinity and then goes back to normal. So every time I go to calibrate the TPS in link software it just reads wrongs. I’m not sure what’s causing this, maybe grounds. The Link just sees it at 100% except when idling. Then it’s okay, is this how the sensor is supposed to work? Any help appreciated, trying to start tuning.

For some reason when I save a trigger scope it doesn't actually save the recording I got. So I snapped a photo of my laptop too. Toyota Celica ST185 G4X Xtreme Plugin not tuned.pclx It seems that im getting an identical reading on trig 1 and trig 2, So im thinking maybe a short somewhere in the harness. Or could it be shorting in the distributor?

So I finally got my ST185 G4X put into my MR2 and did all the pre calibrations. Go ahead and try to crank it with the timing light hooked up to know what base timing should be set at on the ecu. First off the timing light isn’t working while cranking, went and verified it’s working on a different vehicle while running. The light flash’s like every 5 second, which doesn’t do any good for getting my timing. So then I look at the logs while cranking and everything looks weird. I have yes for trigger 2 signal. Trigger 1 signal is flashing between yes and no rapidly. And the trig error counter goes up the whole time, went all the way to 100+. Is there a setting I need to adjust?? Or is my distributor wiring messed up?? Thanks