DanSJ80
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Posts posted by DanSJ80
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19 hours ago, curly said:
I haven't looked over it fully, but I glanced. Looks like you've spent a lot of time on it, looks pretty good, but I'll throw a wrench in your works.
Have you considered a PDM?
When I first saw a PDM i was like omg yes must have, but a bit pricey unfortunately, that money I need for a custom flywheel and bellhousing to go between the k20 and R151f gearbox.
11 hours ago, Adamw said:Fuel pressure sensor is connected to an aux?
The AC pressure switch is usually fitted between the AC request switch and the ecu, so idle up isn't activated if pressure is lost and you get proper clutch delay etc when cycled on the high pressure side.
Some other stuff could be simplified such as clutch switch could just be connected to ground.
Oops, definitely had it written down different. Awesome that AC request switch change makes sense and i made the clutch to earth change.
11 hours ago, Vaughan said:You're trying to trigger the AC Clutch and Condenser Fan relays with a high side signal from inj5&6 which can only do low side control. Same issue with Thermofan on Aux 3. Aux 7 controlling the starte solenoid can do high side but you generally would try and use low side triggering for this.
I would also recommend moving the coil power for the fuel pump relay and isc solenoid relay from the ignition switch signal to the ECU power side of the relay switch so that if the main relay fuse blows it doesn't power up those devices while the ECU is not powered causing all manner of weird back feeding issues.
If it were me I would run Coils, Injectors, ISC Solenoid and ECU all off of one 30A capable relay and fuse, I only see separate relays for those things as added complications and added room for issues to occur with no real benefit. I would also have the power side of the coil for all other relays (fuel pump, starter, fans etc) coming from the ECU power on the ECU side of that relay.
Your pinout also seems to be setup for an Xtreme not a Fury as you are trying to use B plug pin 30 as a digital input when it is one of the dedicated wideband pins on a Fury and you have a CAN based wideband instead of wiring the sensor directly to the ECU.
I had to re-read this so many times
I think i now properly understand hi side and lo side with relays. Getting rid of some relays definitely makes life easier and that really makes sense regarding losing power to the ecu while other things are still powered.
Regarding the pin numbering, here are some photos of the quick start guide i have, i have highlighted which i think correlate to the o2 sensor wiring. i think i made a mistake about which port to send the canbus wiring too from the can lambda?
I've made those changes, hopefully a bit better
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Hi,
This is my first time doing a loom, please go easy on me . I still plan to incorporate bulkhead auto sport connectors at the firewall, just making sure that I have understood the wiring side properly before I go and plan that out. I am laser cutting a 24-1 trigger wheel for Crank, mounting it to the front of the harmonic balancer and fabricating up a bracket to mount a sensor I pinched off the k20.
In future i've left some pins free for the k20 vtec and a future aftermarket E-throttle setup which I hope to get cruise control working etc. i've tried to make the diagram easier to follow by having pages showing the outputs into their own segments but keeping earth in every diagram. if there is an easier you'd prefer i relay this information let me know.
In the AC wiring, I assume that if the command from ecu to send to ac clutch has to first pass thru the 2 pin dual switch it saves using extra pins to read that sensor. as the AC goes thru the amplifier it was a bit difficult to follow.
thank you.
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yea I might actually turn that up, might be easier. awesome thank you, I can continue planning my harness
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I pulled the wheel back out and properly measured it. If this pattern is no good, I could get some shapes laser cut through work and press them into shape.
I've also scored a crank timing pulley with trigger teeth from a baleno, I'll see if i can find a way to fit either an inductive or hall effect sensor without replacing the oil pump housing.
Really appreciate your help thank you.
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absolute legend how did you find that.
one tooth is shorter. I intend to run coil packs when connecting the g4x to the g16b.
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Yes, sorry after i added the image i forgot to mention that this was similar but the closest i was able to find.
here's a photo of the trigger wheel, i have a feeling it's a little underwhelming.
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Hi, thought i'd continue on this thread instead of creating a new topic.
I am trying to use the g16b as a bit of a practice run for learning how to wire up and tune, in the meantime i am planning a k20 swap, this will take some time and im happy to tinker around with the g16b. I am hoping to not need to fit a crank angle sensor, this is a bit of money and effort i'd prefer not to spend. Is it possible to run the fury g4x solely off the cam angle sensor?
I believe this is the sensor inside the distributor, which is the same as some lancers https://www.autopartssupply.com.au/suzuki-se416-vitara-crank-angle-sensor-1.6ltr-g16b?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA0bWvBhBjEiwAtEsoWzbL9W7lLx-ZeFtbZP90aVn4cLN4olsXDMM4wYu3k_l0UEfHw63TwRoCkR0QAvD_BwE
I'm still trying to figure out which pins I'd need to connect to as well.
thanks in advance for your help.
I think i now properly understand hi side and lo side with relays. Getting rid of some relays definitely makes life easier and that really makes sense regarding losing power to the ecu while other things are still powered.
Wiring Question
in G4x
Posted
thanks again for all your patience and help. I wish i knew that before i bought the lambda kit. ouch haha.