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Cameron Daline

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Posts posted by Cameron Daline

  1. Altering a Hight Level Tach to Accept Low Level Signal

    in Link G2 G3

    Posted

    Thanks Jurgen! I've spent a lot of time on it and tidy was a top priority for me. And now, thanks to the help from you guys, I have a working tachometer finally! I wired in the 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor for the tacho output and that did the trick. It's a small victory, but very satisfying to have it working the way I want now :) Best, Cameron PS -- here's a link to more info and pics of the build up: http://www.ipdusa.com/blog-58.

  6. Altering a Hight Level Tach to Accept Low Level Signal

    in Link G2 G3

    Posted

    Hi all, So... still frustrated. Decided going aftermarket gauge would just be easier. Not proving to be thus far though. I got a VDO Vison tach to use with the car. It states it will work with '12v square wave' applications. In the install info that came with the gauge it shows it working either off a coil, or off an electronic ignition system (just like how the Autometer Phantom gauge is installed as mentioned above -- I compared install diagrams and instructions for both the Autometer and VDO). The VDO tacho I have just has dip switches that you change depending on config and # of cylinders. I've got Aux output 3 in LINK setup as 'tacho' output in the PCLink. According to the PCLink help, that signal produces a pulse each time an ignition event occurs. In the printed manual though, I find that it states that tacho ouput from LINK sends a pulse each time the motor is at TDC. Which is correct? No matter how I set it with the dip switches or what the info is set at in the PCLink, I get nothing on the gauge. I tried running the duty cycle low from the PCLink, I tried setting it all the way up, and in between. Nothing on the tach. I figured I'd at least get something and of course could fine tune it on the gauge and in the PCLink to calibrate it, but I just have nothing. I've verified the tach has power as the gauge 'zeroes' when power is supplied to it. It's just not reading RPMs. I tried every combination of settings on the 3 dip switches and no luck getting it to read anything on any configuration. What am I missing?

  7. Altering a Hight Level Tach to Accept Low Level Signal

    in Link G2 G3

    Posted

    Hi Phil, Thanks for the response. Another question to follow up if I may, which will probably sound like a newbie question! As I'm running the COP arrangement in wasted spark I am only using the IGN1 and IGN2 outputs from the LINK G3. They are paired off to the coils of course. I am using COPs from a Toyota that have built in ignitors so each coil has 3 inputs -- 12v, ground, and the IGN input from the LINK to tell it when to fire. If I want to run the tacho with a couple diodes from the coils which of these 3 wires would I splice into? The IGN signal wires from the LINK? Thanks, Cameron

  9. Altering a Hight Level Tach to Accept Low Level Signal

    in Link G2 G3

    Posted

    Hi all. I have an old Volvo 240 that I built a custom turbo motor for that I have running on LINK G3. It's all running beautifully and working great so far but I'm trying to tie up a couple more loose ends. I'm currently trying to figure out how to get the factory tacho to work with the LINK. The factory tacho originally ran off the negative side of the ignition coil. With the new motor I have it running on COP arrangement so no external coil to drive the factory tacho. Here's what I found, according to the LINK manual: Quote: "An auxiliary output configured at 'Tacho" produces a 0-12V pulse train to drive a low-level tach. There will be one output pulse for each time a cylinder reaches TDC. Connect an auxiliary output directly to a low-level tachometer. Link G3 ECU's will NOT drive a high level tach that is triggered by a coil's negative terminal. Using a high level tach on a multi-coil engine presents some problems, as each coils is not firing as often as a distributor engine's coil would. In this case the preferred solution is to modify the high level tach to accept a low level signal." I'd imagine I could wire the tach up by triggering off each coil and wiring in diodes to not send the signal back to the other coils, but single wire hookup off the ECU seems way easier since the ECU is already configured to send out the signal I need. I just don't get what is meant by the statement 'modify the high level tach to accept a low level signal.' I don't even know where to start with that? Can I just amplify the tach signal off the ECU somehow? Any thoughts?

  10. Noob Question RE: Trigger Setup on Volvo B230 Engine

    in Link G2 G3

    Posted

    Back to this again, only 11 months later! I ended up using the stock configuration with relation to flywheel placement. Missing teeth are 84 degrees towards the intake side of the motor, which is the left side of the motor from sitting in the car. Since the engine spins clockwise (looking from the front of the motor for this reference) the VR sensor "sees" the missing teeth before the engine reaches #1 TDC so that would mean set trigger offset at -84 degrees? Wouldn't that end up being the same as setting it as +275 degrees then? Thanks, Cameron

  11. Noob Question RE: Trigger Setup on Volvo B230 Engine

    in Link G2 G3

    Posted

    Hi Guys - I'll preface by apologizing if this is a silly question... I've built a hybrid turbo Volvo engine that will be running on LinkPlus G3. It is a 2.3l B230 shortblock (think 240/740/940 models) with a DOHC 16v Volvo head from a B234 engine. I'm planning on triggering via the Volvo OEM Bosch LH 2.4 crank sensor. In the OEM setup it's a VR sensor that reads a 60-2 pattern on the flywheel perimeter. As stated, I'd like to use this same setup wired into the Link to trigger. On the Volvo flywheel, it's not toothed per se, but rather has 60 holes drilled (10mm or so deep) in it, missing 2 holes. The flywheel is bolted on via 8 bolts and can therefore be bolted on in 8 different configurations. In the OEM LH 2.4 setup, the missing holes (teath) are offset about 8 holes from the VR sensor at TDC. So the crux of my question is this: Should I bolt the flywheel in at is OEM position, or does it even matter? Thing is, with the engine at TDC, the flywheel will bolt on with the first hole in the flywheel perfectly centered under the VR sensor. i.e. at TDC it points at the first hole, runs past the next 57 holes after that one, runs past the two missing holes, then back to TDC. So can I run it that way? I've not had much time to play around w/ the PCLink software yet as I've just recently decided on and got my G3 EMS. So can I "train" or calibrate the tuning software as to where in the 60-2 pattern TDC is? Thanks, Cameron

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