r32skizzzaaa
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Posts posted by r32skizzzaaa
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Have wired extreme into r32 skyline factory engine loom harness.
12v to pin 45
Earths to engine block and head
I have to manually ground the eccs relay wire to be able to start engine, but ignition stays on when key is off. Is there a way to ground this through the ecu? like a gp input?
Also when you turn the key off, the ecu stays powered up and injectors buzz like crazy, so have to disconnect battery to stop this.
Is it because I haven't wired up ecu hold power. Does anyone know what wires I need at the factory ecu plug to use this? and is a diode needed? as from factory the ecu stays powered on, so wouldn't there be a diode in the main relay or something?
Any help much appreciated
Cheers
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OK so dont run with the factory engine loom wiring. Awesome il run some wires into the engine bay. Cheers
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Wiring a extreme into factory r32 skyline engine loom using the very short a and b loom. Is it OK to join the 4 wires into the group earth component by factory ecu plug on loom or better to extend and run the earths sepereatly to engine. Have been following the plug in wiring diagram, it says connect to a pin on ecu plug (can't renember number) but that little earth wire seems way to small to join 4 wires to.
Please help me out cheers
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Hi Adam
You are a legend! Have updated the dwell table, awesome how link made it easy to do! sweet that sounds good.
Yea don't you tune first and then turn that on? Oh right I set that low incase something goes wrong with my boost control. I put it 22psi or something so how will it cut at 8psi? Is there a calculation I don't know or? First time so would love to know. And same with RPM limit just for safety then when happy will increase 500 or more RPM.
Thanks again
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HI everyone
I have configured my ECU g4+ extreme as best as I can.
Could someone please take a look over and check it all out before my next step. Mainly with my injector and coil settings. I think I have done the injectors right, but the coils I have no clue what to do as the coil data I was given doesn't make sense to the ECU dwell table.
I have attached my ECU file tune and injector and coil data sheets.
RB25det
Injectors are Bosch 1000cc.
Coils are NZEFI high energy coils. http://www.nzefi.com/wp-content/uploads/NZEFI-HEIIC-ID-0C.pdf
Fuel used 98
Track/Drift car
Any help much appreciated.
Thanks Matt
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you can you need to go into set bas timing and adjust from there
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all I have done is wired in lc-2 wideband controller brown wire to my aux input, pos and neg straight off battery. selected lc-1 on my aux channel, performed free air calibration. and ran engine. i have a cable that can connect controller to laptop to change settings. would i have to do that as the link only has lc-1?
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oh right here is map
and if you look in that same log file the wideband starts displaying halfway through which is also strange.
It is a brand new wideband sensor, so I hope so, will re calibrate and have another go hopefully this weekend.
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I sent it as a attached email to tech support, so hopefully it will reach you?
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I cant send you a log file as to large is there a way to trim it down or send to you another way through email?
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awesome I will wait then thanks heaps
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do they not make the knock block anymore? was reading good reviews about the phormula ks-3 and 4. is the knocklink a reliable enough product? fast enough to pick up small signals?
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hi scott
Yes the values in the table. I havnt been watching that, just actual to target afr.
Here is my map
cheers
coupland suzuki 1600 sport.pcl
This is actually it sorry, first one I got given, then made into this one where it idles good. went down to river left boat on trailer to tune and can not run any leaner than 11.
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Gathering tools to start tuning. Anyone have or know of a knock detective device for sale? A good second hand one I'm after as budget is tight cheers.
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Have a inovative lc2 wideband. Wired into aux input on ecu. Was playing around with fuel mapping and can richen the Afr right down to 6-7 but cannot lean out anymore than 11 Afr. Even thoh the number is still going up in cell the Afr will not go leaner. Yes I calibrated outside of exhaust before hand.
Also what is the colour code meaning of each cell
Any help Cheers
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OK so what is exactly base timing if I tuned with 15° base then changed to 10° would that pull 5° of timing off every cell on map? Or would each cell sill be the same and be some on timing light
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Got asked a quesion the other day. With ingtion map say 1500rpm cell and ignition is 15° is that including base timing or does it add base timing onto that without you seeing it so really it is 25° if base is set at ten. A person asked me and I'm sure it's including but after him thinking it still adds the base timing I'm puzzled. Cheers
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Dimly lit is that what it was always like or was it brighter? If was brighter before could be an earth issue
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increasing the cold start fuel enrichment up by 10s help as would give a lot more fuel to help fire up? can't see the map. I did this on my engine and helped a lot. Do you know the Afr from o2 sensor while cranking?
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Do you have a idle control valve or cold start valve
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I did find my fpr and map hose was taken off same point on engine, changed to individual points and engine now running a lot better but still not 100% but using the q and a keys to change fuel cells I still can not reach my afr target, my lambda 1 reading does not change much at all to anything. but looking back in the logging I can see it does change from 10 to 7 but nowhere in between?
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ok I think I have messed this logging up, let me know if I need to redo it, played around with configuration started engine and idled perfect, then started to slowly pack up, then died, realised 5v spare wire had earthout out took me a while to find lol. but after that everything went weird, running like it used to and worse, so here are some more logs, from what im reading from it I can see when it was running good then readings went out the window so im guessing that's when my 5v was earthed. I think you would like me to re log, so I can I just had enough with it tonight. starting to understand the logging side so will get a good log sometime.
cheers
wont let me upload them
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hi everyone
storm g4+ Suzuki m16a engine
Has anyone had a issue like this before?
Can not at all get a stable rpm or idle to adjust my ignition and fuel tables, set base timing to 10deg and idles perfect as is locked, hit enter, then revs bounces up and down like its hunting, look at my ignition table set the cells the crosshair is going to and from to 10 and still doesn't change. so thinking its not a timing issue?
Playing around with my fuel table doesn't help at all. I cant even use autotune as cant hold rpm in a certain cell.
Then I unplugged pc cable and idle increased dramatically and slowed down the hunting a bit but still un tuneable. I have no idle control valve. so slow idle down and is a bit smoother again but still not good enough at all. I'm not sure if this is a ecu, laptop or engine fault, thinking its not a engine fault such as a air leak because when I set base timing it idles perfect. Have been sent a tune from another m16a engine just to get me started.
So anyone experienced this or any ideas to help me out? can post up a video what's happening if I can post videos on here, but I think iv explained it good enough
ecu powering down issue.
in G4+
Posted
OK that makes sense. But is it not possible to ground the eccs relay through a ecu gp output, like the fuel pump relay?