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blink977

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Posts posted by blink977

  1. 8 minutes ago, Adamw said:

     

    If your crank sensor is the black “24X” type then that test is invalid, they are a dual track sensor to read two separate/sandwiched trigger wheels. They only output something logical when the two sensing elements are at different levels.

     

    Did you click capture while it was cranking?  The fact that it displays erratic rpm suggests there is a signal there at least some of the time.

    Yes I clicked Capture

    how to tell difference between sensors? And which sensor should I use? What Trigger parameters should be set?

     

  2. thank you for the answer. I'm suspecting bad crank sensor, I removed all spark plugs today, disabled fuel and ignition and cranked engine for a while. I still don't have any kind of reading in Trigger Scope. Only thing I have is jumping rpm's reading, 800-0-800 and so on. I removed crankshaft sensor and tested it with multimeter, it pulls up to positive voltage when I putting wrench close to it, but when I'm taking wrench away from it, it stays pulled up. Is that symptom of bad sensor? Sensor is wired to Storm's ground out green wire, and +12 ignition voltage from relay. Maybe it needs +8 volts?

     

  3. Hi everyone, I'm currently trying to fire up LS engine with G4 Storm, engine turns, but backfires. Here's engine setup:

    LQ4 cast iron engine block with Wiseco domed forged pistons, LS3 CNC ported cylinder head. Compression ratio is somewhere 10.5:1, Link G4 Storm engine management, running 8 injectors and 8 ignition outputs, injection mode is set to Sequenital, and Ignition mode is set to Direct spark. injector number 1 is connected to link output 1, injector number 2 connected to 2, etc. Same for ignition. Firing order set to 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3. Trigger setup is set to Chevy 5-10

    Now about problems:

    1. engine backfires.

    I know it is definitely timing or crankshaft sensor issue, but I have rpm fluctuation due cranking, it goes to 670-700 rpm and falls to 0, then again. Is it normal due cranking?

    2. I don't have any readings in Trigger scope.

    3. I have few errors at Analog Volt and Analog temp, but MAP sensor works, and readings are fine, also all temperature sensors readings are fine

     

    I also afraid about fuel quantity, so does anyone can advice safe start-up fuel map?

    All I need is to fire it up, to car reach the tuner

    Thanks

     

  4. here's screens of ignition and fuel. for the first time we had to start engine with MAP disconnected, because we are using mercedes sensor, it needs calibration yet. we are at sea level and it shows 160kpa, instead of 101. but i was not able to calibrate MAP with engine off, does it requiers engine running for calibration?

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  5. I'm currently at work now, I will post pictures of ignition table and master fuel map this evening, any advice would be welcome. I just need safe setting for engine break in period, until car reaches tuner.

  6. well, engine was started for the first time, but we don't had coolant system connected, so we shut if off immediately.

    now I wonder, what settings I need, to be on safe side, until engine break in period?

  7. From the help file:

    Capture.png

    Your firing order is different but just follow the pattern.  i.e Drive #1 goes to cyl 1 & 4, Drive#2 goes to cyl 8 & 3 etc. 

    Sorry, but I can't clearly figure it :(

    what will be connection with firing order of 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3? :(

  8. What about wiring? I mean which injectors to pair for sequental mode? I assume, if firing order is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3, then ijectors are wired same way: inj 1-8 to channel1 and so on

  9. Cam and crank are fine on unregulated 12-14v, as already stated a couple times.

    You can pair the coils up and have the ignition drives run 2 coils since they are internally regulated.

    As stevieturbo already said, If firing wasted spark, 1+6, 8+5, 7+4 and 2+3 as pairs

    I have base calibrations for LQ9 in Na, SC, and turbo.  Only issue is that you will need to change the ignition to waste spark and reconfigure some outputs such as drive by wire and the what not.

    Other than that, you would only need to change the injector scaling as all my calibrations are set up for modelled fuel equation.

    thank you, will be very appreciated for calibration of NA :)

    but if I have to change ignition to wasted spark, what type of ignition are you using in your calibration? is there better choice than wasted spark for LS?

    we don't have electric throttle, it is cable drive :)

  10. The OEM sensors work fine from an unregulated 12v supply, they'd probably work fine off 5v too.

    They're just a hall sensor there is no need for a regulated supply. 

    LS coils have built in ignitors. 5v/hi to charge, 0v/low to fire the coil.

    If firing wasted spark, 1+6, 8+5, 7+4 and 2+3 as pairs

    what about connection of ignition coil and ecu?

  11. This is what I mean, most likely I'm gonna build power source, on fixed 12v regulator IC.

    I was reading installation manual, and can't figure ignition coil setup. It defenitely will be wasted spark, with two coils wired in parallel. LS firing order is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3. This means that I have to wire coils 1and 8 to ign1, coils 7 and 2 to ign2 and so on. Right? But, LS ignition coils are 4 pin, and as I found they are 5v activated, does that mean that I need igniter?

  12. thank you for information :)

    if crank and cam sensors are 12v, I can't get regulated 12v for them, right? what should I do? I have an idea building some simple 12v positive regulator, and feed sensors from it.

    another question is: will be default master fuel map settings safe for engine? mixture can be to lean, right?

  13. Hi all! I'm new to link engine management, and currently we are finishing up my friend's LS build, swapped in E36 M3 body.

    I need a little help with first startup setting, triggers, etc. Just need car to start, and run 1000-1500km safely for engine break-in, until car goes to tuner.

    So, here's the setup:

    Engine: LS bored to 6 liters, freshly built, with all new internals. Upgrades are: speedmasters intake, 440lb green injectors, Comp XR275HR12 cam, Comp upgraded valve springs, aftermarket headers.

    As for engine sensors, our tuner asked for: water temp sensor, air temp sensor, MAP sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, throttle position sensor, and idle air control valve. Do we need anything else?

    Our Link is G4+, I found installation manual and it says that ecu has only +5v for sensors feeding. I have stock cam and crank sensors from LS1, anyone knows they are 5v or 12v?

    But main problem is first startup settings, I'm not familiar with ecu tuning, I'm doing wiring only, but we have to start car for engine break in, our tuner is 400km far from us, so I need help with trigger parameters.

    Also, questions on wiring looms: my link came with mini A loom, where's pin configurations, and wire colors are different from G4 pinout in installation manual. So, Atom G4 and G4+ shares different pinout?

    Thanks

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