motomattx

It was an Ebay sensor so im sure its junk now that I have researched it better, going to Summit racing to just get a real one, I didnt know that there were knock offs of this sensor. Someone needs slapped up side the head for making junk like this, it looks identical too but when I look closer it doesnt have the pins labeled like the one that Summit sells.

This is true, I dont run anything but ethanol though, so I guess I can set the default to 50% or so. Whats the chances of a brand new sensor being bad though? or a brand new tank of ethanol from a 6 month old gas station being full of water? the car runs the same as it always did with my other ecu plugged in. So if I take the sensor out of the fuel line and clean it out and leave it plugged in with no fuel in it, then it should not be outputting any frequency at all then correct? or no? looking for a way to test the sensor to eliminate it being bad or water contamination.

Would that cause it to show zero percent though? I would think that it would top out at 100% ethanol content if it went beyond 150hz.

I have a Continental ethanol sensor wired to the DI6 on the expansion harness, for some reason my ethanol percentage shows 0 even though when I look at the frequency on DI6 its showing 169hz, any suggestions? When I unplug the sensor the frequency drops to zero also, so I know that the sensor is outputting a signal at least.

Ok just was wondering if was actually a function that was needed was all.

Can the plug in ecu use the factory maf sensor at all or is it just used for temperature? I see that there is an input for that pin on the ecu that is marked "maf" but if I look in the maf setup table it only lists a Subaru maf sensor for a selection.

How about putting a volt meter on the output of the knock sensor to see if its actually putting out voltage and if you see it spike at all when your doing a pull?

Thanks.

Ohh, I wasnt familiar with those genre of coils, those are more of a smart coil so they include the driver transistor in the coil housing, in that case you should be able to drive them right from the ecu, yes.

Is there any reason to connect the constant 12v battery backup in the stock harness to the plug in VR4 ecu?

The ecu cant drive the ignition coils by itself, you still need an ignition transistor. You should be able to eliminate the mpi relay if you have the other two in place.

Some crank triggers are 5 volt input.

How hard would it be to have the ecu ground the relay on my 2g Dsm for the cooling fans? I should be able to use the unused fuel pressure solenoid or purge solenoid outputs from the ecu right? Im running the VR4 ecu in a 2g since there isnt a plug and play model for a 2g and making up the patch harness I realized that the 1g/Vr4 ecu doent control the cooling fans like the 2g Dsm needs the ecu to do.

Hey whats up Joe.

Nice to see another 4g63 guy here!

Sounds like a loss of crank signal.

Ok, so I would fire all four together on one channel but I would need an outside driver box? or can the ecu's injector driver handle the impeadance of the four of them in series or parallel or series parallel depending on the specific injectors? of course in series it would sum the dead times together I'm thinking.

Hello everyone, been browsing for a few months since buying a G4+ plugin, I have been using Ecuflash on a stock Dsm/Evo ecu for years now and finally made the jump to standalone and the Link setup seemed to be the best bang for the buck out there, I havent seen alot of Dsm/Evo guys at the big events running it yet but I know a few are and it seems to be catching on, and I intend to suggest it to others and I'm looking forward to learning the ways of the system and exploiting its many features for my use as much as I can. My question for today is, can the plug in G4+ for the VR4/Evo 1-3 run 8 injectors or does it require an aux injector driver setup of some kind?