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About NotJustToast

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  • Birthday 02/15/1985

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    South Lake Tahoe, CA

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  1. So did you just remove the original resistor and bridge those 2 points with a wire and it worked fine?
  2. I messed with the duty cycle a bit going as low as 20 and as high as 90 percent but it did not change anything. I went on amazon and ordered some 5ohm and 1ohm 1/4 watt resistors to try and will let you guys know what happens when I get them. Thanks for the help.
  3. Thanks for explaining the pwn tables, you really helped me understand how this works. I messed with the tacho duty cycle and multiplier and it seems the tach is pretty close to where it suppose to be "only checked up to 3k because I couldn't drive it today." Now the weird stuff.....When the tach is first plugged in everything sits at 0 where it is suppose to but the moment I switch the ignition on the needle never goes below 100-200 rpm, and when I turn ignition on "after the sweep" it sits at about 500 rpm. Once the car is running the needle does not move smoothly and has a jitter or hesitation movement when going up or down in rpm. If I quickly blip the throttle to around 2k rpm "on the laptop" my tach only makes it to 1300-1500 rpm. I uplaoded a few pics and a vid of the 2k blip for reference. Thanks again cluster rev 2k.mp4
  4. So, I just tried to modify my AE86 original tach but removing the 30ohm resistor and using a 10ohm instead as Mark Panic instructed from Panic Wire. The tach works now but is not accurate and does some weird stuff compared to others that have done this same mod. I asked Mark and he said "If the tach is off outside of a certain point it's best to use a gp pwm table instead of "tacho".. You can start with a fixed duty of 60 and build the table by rpm. You should be able to do this without the car running." I have no idea what a gp pwn table is or how to do this. Any suggestions would be most appreciated. Car is using a Link Monsoon G4+ in a 1985 Toyota Corolla.
  5. That did it! I went into the an3 settings and it was set to lambda 1. Turned it off and then started the car. I'm now getting a constant afr/lambda readings on my pclink gauge now. Very awesome and thank you both for the help. Now time for some quick tune driving.
  6. Please give me some more details about "turning off lambda 1 of an3". I would guess that if I turned off lambda 1 of an3, the afr would not show a value...right? Or do you suggest to turn it off then back on? Or move lambda 1 to a different analog volt number? Thanks
  7. Alright Adamw, when I first started the car cold today the lambda status was off and the CAN 1 status showed the acknowledge error, error passive, and bus warning error. I then turned the motor off and turned the key to accessories and power cycled the 02 by unplugging the 4-way deutsch lambda plug. The Can 1 status now showed all ok after plugging it back in. Then I warmed the car up, shut it off, and recorded these 2 different logged starts. The first one has the 33 open circuit APE-IPE and the 16 heated too long errors but still operatin ok. The second one just has the 26 battery under voltage and operating ok. Both display the same afr that does not change. Thanks for all your input so far! lambda error 11-18.llg lambda error2 11-18.llg
  8. Alright, I got a little busy with this holiday stuff but was able to rewire the lambda with the relay. Took it on a 1.5 hour round trip and the Lambda seems to be wired properly but still not working. In the CAN status everything is green/ok. The ecu status tab shows lambda 1 status ok, lambda 1 error ok, lambda 1 temp F 1438, but only displays a 10.1 AFR. Now when I first started it up and drove it the error 26 low voltage was present but after a restart it did not show any errors. What should I check next or has the unit been damaged from my original incorrect wiring?
  9. Thanks. I used 18 awg for all 4 wires so that should be fine. I will try wiring the power to the battery distribution block with a relay and the 12v power I'm using now for the 12v switched. Let you guys know how it goes tomorrow.
  10. Hey guys, just got my 3sge beams engine running in my corolla with the Link g4+ monsoon and a harness built by Panic Wire. I'm having some issues with my Link Can-Lambda unit though. There was originally an OBD plug with the power, ground, can H, & can L wires I needed for the 02 in the Panic ECU harness. So I cut the plug out and soldered a new extension to the 4-way deutsch lambda plug. I originally had the wires mixed up due to the wire colors being different than the link pin diagram. Panic uses the universal can-obd wire colors. It is now wired with 12v to the power and 2.4v for both can H & can L. He also said it should be fine that I connect straight to those 4 wires and do not need a relay or capacitor. Now the issue, in the "runtime values" the CAN tab shows all green/ok but in the ECU STATUS the lambda 1 error displays 26 battery under voltage, then 33 open circut APE-IPE, and 16 heated too long. The status goes back and forth from diagnostic to calibration and the temperature back and forth from 32f to 750f or so. AFR always reads 10.08. Voltage is around 13.5v. I also setup the can setting to the link ecu specifications on the site. I will attach a log file showing the info and could use some help with this. Should I wire it differently, was the unit damaged by having the pins mixed up at first, or are there some settings I should change? Any insight would be most appreciated and thanks for reading. lambda error.llg beams.pclr
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