Toffa93

Hi Adam, Ok mate, piggyback probably the wrong word there then i think, if i was to use as much of the OEM Loom as possible (Its all in v nice condition), is it a case of just wiring in everything possible to the Link? No sharing of sensors / info?

Hi all, Quick overview of what i have tried and are now wanting to do... Acquired the car, a Naturally Aspirated 4EFE 4WD Model, that i am fitting my forged 4EFTE Into. It came with a full 4EFTE Wiring harness (engine, dash, rear to lights etc) which i promptly set about trying to fit, until i realised that the heaters, airbags, seatbelts, fuel system, and various other modules wouldn't work.... ARGHHH!! So, what i am looking to do (and probably should have done in the first place) is wire in a Monsoon. I am wanting to piggy back this as much as possible. Am i right in saying the below would suffice for my application? (some info grabbed from @Vaughan Thread on Caldina ST246 Query, which i have amended / added to) Run the 4 injector wires to the new ECU instead of the original. Run the Distributor wiring to the new ECU, the dizzy runs the 4 spark plug leads, and also has the cam sensor in, would this need to be spliced into so the OEM ECU Still sees this data? I'm thinking i will have to modify the trigger wheel so the LINK Can understand it? Branch off TPS and run to new ECU As well as old Run internal map sensor on NEW ECU Run new IAT Sensor Branch of ECT (or add a separate one), if branching you cannot be applying your own pullup (So can't use an AN Temp pin on Atom or Monsoon for this) and might need to make a custom calibration. Maybe take control of the fuel pump with the aftermarket ECU? Power and ground supplies to aftermarket ECU. link signal grounds, probably leave 5V disconnected from factory loom. In addition to the above, the 4EFTE Runs a knock sensor which the 4efe doesn't, so i will run one of them to the LINK. 3 port boost solenoid also perhaps, if i don't just run it via the actuator... Am i right in thinking the main sticking point here is going to be the dizzy? the 4EFE Has a combined ignitor etc (which id like to retain if poss) compared to the EFTE That has a separate coil on the bulkhead. Assuming it has more power... The only reason i want to run it piggy back is for ease. and there being other modules etc running off the stock ECU. If its easier, i don't mind going to COP, and chopping up the dizzy so it just sends the CAM Signal) Like on the ME221 Etc ecus. (trigger wheel is modified). Simple is the goal, but if it aids in it being piggyback i dont mind adding stuff! Thankyou!

@myturborolla How did you get on with this?

Hi All, Recently bought a 2004 Model STi Forester with the EJ255 engine and i happen to have a late model GX4 Monsoon ecu sat gathering dust... Would it be a huge step forward fitting this and getting it properly tuned over the stock ecu? Would i get away with a jumper harness from Boomslang or similar? Or am i best getting a spare plug set and making a loom up? Thanks!

Adam, Sorted it buddy. Few hours racking brains tonight and checking everything brought us to the finish line lol. ECU was receiving the modified signal when it was plugged in.

Hi all, Bit of a noob here and first post so apologies for that!Bit of detail, I own a 1999 ENR34, Fitted with a Tuned NEO Turbo lump. The car is fitted with a Link G4+ Fury and after getting the car up and running in 2wd i decided it was time to sort the AWD. Purchased a Haltech TPS adaptor, and proceeded to wire it in using the NISSAN wiring diagram (Seems poor for the ENR). Stock ENR34 TPS. This is wired in using a Boomslang harness. Wiring for ENR34, ER34 And other R34s are the same basically,The 4wd light is still illuminated, and the car runs in 2wd. Pump works ok, Gets power, Primes up as normal etc. Been a while since i touched the car as life got in the way but i need to re-visit and sort it as its really annoying me it not working!I know the Atessa ECU needs to see a modified signal, which it receives from the adaptor.Worth noting, when the PC Program is running for the link, and full throttle is applied, the % throttle indicator on screen shows roughly 30% Throttle when the car is at full, and down from there to 0%. Would i be right in saying the ECU Is receiving the wrong signal somehow? Possibly while the Atessa ECU Is seeing the full signal? Has anyone had a similar issue with an ENR?Sorry for what probably seems a noob question, I am not the best with wiring and electronics, but know how to use a multimeter.... LolThanks all