josey

try with cop coils from vag, used in skoda, audi, wV, porsche... i had similar issues but i had trigger errors, after using this cop, never had single issue (on any car, and i tune them few ) and it is strange that you have damaged 1 rod bearing and no trigger errors. or you have to much spark advance, but on 93 octane fuel i think your engine would knock first, and you have no damage on pistons? im not sure anymore try with COP first edit, what is spark advance on 8psi now?

7" seems small. can you double check, because in 8" there is tonn of options, and in 7" none

problem is in controller inside tablet it is supposed to give power to external device or, to receive power for battery, and it is not designed to do both at same time. so what you need is OTG and charging at same time "cable" and that will not work on all tablets. best thing is to find tablet that have separate charge port and usb port. or two usb ports.

there is cable on ebay that enables you to charge device and use usb port at same time, because opening device and connecting it directly to 5v on battery leads is not good idea i think. Batteries are 3v or so (3.6v if i recall)

its not windows option, its BIOS option. its "program" tthat runs when computer / tablet boot during black screen just at the moment you turn on device (computer or tablet or ...) after that device reads boot sector and starts boot from it, and depending on the installed OS you boot to win xp, win 7, win 10 ... (or linux, android...) here, this is in my car

i had tablet in my car, it was pain in the ... Get your power supply for tablet to car Ign if you need 12 to 5v charger, just get it from ebay for few $ getting it i off is not problem, just set windows to go to hibernate after 1 minute without external power (dont get it to sleep if you dont drive your car for long periods, it will drain your car battery ) turn it on when external power gets back can be tricky, that is BIOS job, so if you dont have option "power on after power failure" or "power on on AC" or similar, forget it. And usually cheap windows models dont have that option in bios. that is my experience, yours can be different regards

Adam, thank you

Hi guys, if i recall well, on ecu with serial no lower than 5000 to get CAN work something on mainboard required soldering? can you assist please? i just need info what thanks

if you dont fix this with LS coils, can i suggest for you vw 1.4 or 1.8 coils ? works for me on many cars, ford, opel, honda...

thanks will post feedback here

its not probelm, its just my stupid wish to make it more smooth. but even if i leave it like this, its much better then before.

just to to give feedback, and to say thank you to Adamw I started with settings Adamw suggested, and I ended up with this settings and its working good for now, i think i will play more with it in future advanced mode : ON hard limit OFF cut effect: Adaptive limit ctrl range: 500 RPM hard limit activation: 0 RPM end cut: 70% start cut TP 100%: 20% start cut TP LOW: 20% tp low: 20% exit decay rate 20% /20ms limit ign trim -5 rew limiter is on 9300rpm, and engine is nicely limited from 8700-8900 Adamw, do you have any more suggestions?

ok thanks, its completely opposite settings that i expected to be, but your suggestion seems logic. only thing i dont need is TP low limiter because that car is always 0% throttle or 100% so throttle is like off on regarding lean AFR, it starts to be lean at 7000 and its lean up to 9000 that was strange for me, and cutting is set at 80% and rpm range is 100rpm 1st and 2nd gear are much much leaner than 3rd and 4th gear for example. i will investigate more what is happening i will log fuel pressure. thanks for reply.

Hi guys i need help with setting up rev limiter on 2.0L drag race car with big turbo. Rev limiter is set to 9000rpm On LC car spin up wheels and car speed is different than wheel speed, and on shift from 1st to 2nd rpm drops to much and than we are in (black) turbo hole so idea was to keep engine in rev limit for just a second so car achieve wheels speed, and on shift to 2nf gear rpm would drop to reasonable rpm and boost thing is when i shift on shift light before rpm limiter rpm drops to much - turbo hole if i let engine to hit rev limiter, it feels like i hit the brakes, so its even worse. I played little bit with advanced rev limiter and i get better results, i even get 0.25sec better time on 1/8 mile, but car still feels like hitting brakes, just not that hard. settings where RPM limit mode: IGN CUT advanced moide : ON hard limit IGN 100% CUT cut effect: CONSTANT limit ctrl range: 200 RPM hard limit activation: 0 RPM end cut: 100% start cut TP 100%: 80% start cut TP LOW: 0% tp low: 0% exit decay rate 5% /20ms limit ign trim 3 and i change it to RPM limit mode: IGN CUT (but its cutting fuel afr going up the sky i have to check why is that happening, yes im 100% sure settings are IGN CUT not fuel cut) advanced moide : ON hard limit IGN 100% CUT cut effect: CONSTANT limit ctrl range: 100 RPM hard limit activation: 0 RPM end cut: 80% start cut TP 100%: 60% start cut TP LOW: 0% tp low: 0% exit decay rate 5% /20ms limit ign trim 3 (on ign cut, by manual this should not work? but its trimming) basically i need sharper rev limiter so i can hold car in 1st gear and that engine pulls like it didnt hit rev limitier, i guess you know what i mean, this is often seen on FWD drag cars. so what to try? to lower limit ctrl range to 50 rpm? end cut to 70% start cut to also 70% ? i didnt had much time to play with this, but on next race i will have, and it will be nice to have good directions to start with. thanks

update added more resolution around idle, i didnt have time to fine tune it but things are much much better. I think i can get max smooth idle this way. idle is back on 1000 rpm and on stop, drops only 100rpm.

kind of an update, vacuum leaks check, no leaks spark plugs changed, oil changed, throttle body checked, it was clean, and no stucks from 0-100% same thing happens. revs drop like a rock and engine stalls only thing i could do is raise idle to 1200rpm because it was impossible to drive in traffic, and now with idle at 1200rpm situation is better, maybe 1 of 20 times engine stalls, that is lets say acceptable. honestly i dont know what else to try. do you have any suggestions?

can you send me email? thanks

timing from 14deg rised to 20deg same thing happening. here is vid how that looks like. ideas? https://vid.me/Wpy6

Hi guys, i need some help, there was my topic which was related to this problem but i was sure that i had problem with PID settings which i see now i dont. Thing is, i have 2.0L with 272deg cams, 75mm DBW throttle body, idle control is set to open loop dbw, ignition timing is used from main ignition table which is 16deg. and engine idle smooth and perfect at 900 or 1000rpm, until i touch throttle and release it quickly. than problem starts, idle starrt bouncing from 500-1500rpm and then i have to catch it on throttle, and slowly release it, and than engine idle smooth again. same problem is when engine fan turns on. Thing is that when im tryng to move on parking engine stall every time i press clutch, same thing on traffic lights, i have to stop and engine stall. i tried to set idle control to closed loop, but it was even worse, because butterfly on throttle body is to big and 0.2% movement made changes about 300-500rmp So i search forum and i found good help here: Idle ignition control turned on, and engine idle much much better, it catches idle target RPM in second, and car is finally drivable, BUT, problem with dropping rpm stays. If i release throttle quickly rpm drops to almost stall, below 500rpm can you guide me what can i try to fix this ? maybe add more idle base timing? here is idle ign correction table thanks guys

thanks for reply Simon, its ok i will manage something

Hi guys, just wondering is there way to set vipec to send minimum values? I will try to explain, i need vipec to send vehicle speed 10kmh when reading from VSS is 0. So thing would work like this while car speed is less than 10kmh vipec is always showing 10kmh, as soon as car pass 10kmh, vipec start to show speed correctly, 11kmh, 12kmh and so on... Is this possible ? thanks

guys, did you try to run OEM dash with arduino? i have 2006 ford with CAN dash, have some device that run my dash, VIPEC - RS232- device - CAN - DASH RPM and ECT, but we cant get speed to work correctly.

Hi Scott i cant send you pm, can you pm me thanks

Hi guys, i have strange problem V44 with 4.10.2 firmware, DI1 GP input - clutch DI2 speed sensor DI3 OFF ok, im not sure did i connect anything to DI3 (because i just check up logs and i just now realize i have problem) but it is turned OFF, it should not work, right? well not exactly. Map which is in this car (lets call it car #2)is taken as base map from another car (lets call it car #1) which have switch wired to DI3 to activate 4D IGN table (for N2O), which retard main ignition table for 4deg. What happens on car #2, is that vipec is pulling off ignition for 4deg even if DI3 is set as OFF. Log said DI3 status -activated. But again, why is it activating 4D ign table if it is set to OFF, it is suppose to do nothing? Example, that should be same thing as that clutch is wired to DI1, and motorsport - launch control is set to OFF, but again is still working (which is not case, i test this like 100 times) Did anyone have similar problem? Scott? Dave? Simon? i can send you log and base map if need thanks

so you had piggyback ecu im car and didnt know about it? great you solve the problem