Nettlez

Yeah it has a tdc so 0 degrees mark so I have marked that underneath onto the sump and wheel so I can see it with the light when it’s running. So I was trying to figure out how to mark 10 degrees on the wheel so I can make that mark on the wheel too so I could check it with it running rather than just cranking?

Just a quick one, so I have just got the car together with its new engine but it’s not running right, hunting on idle and stalling when the revs drop. It’s got a 3.0 crank (was a 2.8) and 1.5mm over bore making it’s a 3.15l, exhaust cam on the intake. So I want to check the base timing but I seem to remember it being a bit of a pain to do a zero. So it’s a Bmw m50nv engine and the crank settings are 60 missing 2, so does this mean that each divot on the wheel equates to 6 degrees? So an easier number to used could be 12 so two divots before?

Ah I see, just had a look and the trigger wheel does look completely different. I will use the Hall one. How can I tell which pin is the signal wire and what not on the hall Sensor? Am I right in thinking it needs 8v supply?

So after about a year unfortunately my BMW m50b28nv engine has blown up so I'm looking at just dropping a m50b25tu engine it it this time and getting mapped to suit. So my question is I believe the tu engine has a Hall effect cam Sensor rather than the vr type Sensor my non vanos engine had, so can I still use this older style vr Sensor with the newer engine? Or is this bad practice and should I re wire to suit the newer Hall effect Sensor? Also it would be handy if anyone knew the base timing offset for the tu engine? Thanks

My tuner thinks I won't see much gain :-( e85 is hard to get a hold of as far as I know, plus there's the twice as much issue. Think the best option is to forge it

it worked a treat, thanks

sounds good, keep us posted on how you get on, would be great to have both

oh right, so basically its nothing to worry about then? I was going to be getting either another pump or regulator as I was thinking I may have brought fakes

Thanks for that I will give it a try, silly mistake

It doesnt seem to be working, have started a new thread for the problem, thanks

Ah ok i understand, mine seems to vary by 24kpa at worst, whats a realistic figure it should stay within? 5kpa?

I have added a diff oil temp sensor after having some issues with oil leaking from the vent in my diff which is now rebuilt. I have wired it to an temp 3 but its just constantly showing 21 degrees and never moves. I have been for a drive then check the resistance at the sensor and it read 308 ohms, according to the scale which came with the sensor that should mean around 40-50 degrees. I have checked my wiring and it seems to be ok so im unsure what i have done wrong, guessing its something to do with the setup.thermistors arent polarity sensertive are they? I have attached my map and a log. Below is a link to the sensor i have brought. Thanks http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=125 rolling launch added - fan adjusted - diff oil added - fan adjusted.pclr It wont let me add the log with the map up? now the logs are corrupt

My tuner said that I had a problem with my fuel pressure when he mapped the car, he said my fuel pressure wasn't rising at the same rate as my boost pressure. So Im just looking at a log so I understand it so I know when I might have fixed it. He put a 4d fuel trim table in to compensate for it for now. So my question is how do i work out what my fuel pressure should be? Im guessing its some maths to do with MAP BAP MGP? Thanks

I have brought this one as it was in the uk and included the table http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=125 just took it for a quick spin just out the estate and back but it never moved of 21degrees, will take it for a decent fun later and see if it warms up

Nice one thanks very much

Right ok but how do I know what the scale is of the one I buy? Ideally I want one with an 1/8npt thread as there's all ready an adapter I can just buy to convert to the thread in my diff plug.

I'm a looking to monitor my diff oil temps as I have been having a problem with it leaking oil out the vent tube. My plan is to put a sensor in where the bottom drain plug goes using an adaptor. What sensors are there that I could use to do this that will work straight away with the link g4+? Rather than using a thermocouple and amplifier. Would the one below work plug and play? Thanks http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Water-Temp-Temperature-Gauge-Dial-Sensor-Sender-Probe-1-8-NPT-Thread-/371898084387?hash=item5696da6c23:g:qN8AAOxyk99RzwYx

Ah I see, yeah its got coolant going through it, so its a ect sensor. Just didn't know if I should have another sensor in my radiator to control the fan or if its ok just coming off the ect sensor

What is he difference between engine coolant temp and cylinder head temp? I currently have my ect from a sensor that goes in the cylinder head, is this right or should the ect be one that comes from a temp sensor in the radiator? Just wondered as I have my fans set up off my ect which comes off the cylinder head but I have been told I should have them off a switch in the radiator instead? But I was thinking I could just out a temp sensor in there and still have them controlled off the Ecu. Thanks

I currently have en e30 turbo running 440bhp 480ftlb but it's knock limited at the moment. I have been looking into water meth kits seeing as I am knock limited due to compression but wondered what sort of gains would be realistic from water meth? Is it worth it? I have been looking at the aquamist kit as is seems good quality and read about a turbo s54 that gained 180whp with it running meth due to the engine still being really high compression so it got me thinking I might see good gains from meth, maybe 50bhp? Thanks

So I currently have single RPM launch control set up on the car via an switch with an inline clutch switch as I have no non driven wheel speed input. But I was going to set up latched launch control but it seems I have to choose to have one or the other setup not both, is there no way of having both types but using different inputs to activate them? I was planning on using my screen wash stalk to activate the latched launch using an inline switch to activate it. Thanks

Every once and awhile the car pops a little flame out the back on the gear change, childish I know but fun. I was wondering if it is an easy task to make the car do it all the time on full throttle high rpm runs when changing gear? From a quick search it seems it may be to do with the overrun fuel cut and ignition retard but I'm unsure if its safe to have a dabble with these figures? If so what sort of changes is safe to make? or is it strictly a tuner only job?

Great thanks for everyone's help

so I can report back that with the cam set to hall, pullup off and rising edge it works fine, have attached a sope with it being swapped from reluctor to hall does this effect the map at all?

Ok I will give it a try today :-) oh and by the way trigger priority is all ready set to trigger 1