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Pieter Gouwy

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  1. hi, As i'm not equipped with good knoledge on Audi engines as i'm a jap specialist and i said yes i'll give it a try i'll be needing some help on the subject. Car is: Audi A4 AVJ engine code (Stock block) -Link G4+ ECU with Link Can Lambda, IAT and boost control solenoid -Garret GT2860RS Turbo on External Wastegate -480cc Injectors -Open Exhaust and airfilter -Frontmount intercooler I only have a 2WD dyno so i reckon i'll have to map it on the road only so if anyone would have a good ignition map for this type of engine/turbo setup, that be great to compare to, so i see where i need to end up at. Car starts and runs ok, Throttle responds, so that seems to work. Did the e-throttle setup from the help page, but i'm a bit unsure if i did it correctly, so is there a "how to video" on this specific matter? I've read the existing topic on the polo with the trigger issues. That got me wondering if i need to follow the same steps to calibrate/setup the trigger setup/ filtering? Are there other things that i need to be extra carefull about with these engines and what boost can u let them run on stock block? December Update: I Finally had some tim to continue on the car, but i cannot get the CAN Lambda working. I tried and tested different power supplies to the can unit itsself and triplechecked the connections of can high and low to the ecu plug wich both are fine, still no succes in bringing up the dail r finding it in the can devices tab. keeps saying cannot find can devices. I've added the file below Thanks for reading. AVJRUNNING.pclr
  2. Hi, wire colors are quite straight forward. I just had the polarity wrong on the link loom side. And yes i did use the shield as far as i could. It is exposed near the sensor but this didnt give me any issues. bap and tps is what i used. The map signal was quite unstable at idle to be of good use. on a 20v manifold i'd use the map tho. As it has an internal chamber system that goes to all ports of the head. so it depends what adapter u used
  3. hi, i've wired my analogue output from my digital AEM afr gauge to the analogue volt of the link G4+ and tried setting it to aem X series for calibration, That showed rich mixture on the laptop screen while it was actually running stoich. I then tried setting up the cal table 4 with the data that came with the AEM gauge instructions, This showed Lean when it was actualy stoich... So 2 different incorrect results. Does anyone have the correct calibration table values? I've searched and the only thing what i came across was @Brad Burnett that had an outcome for this problem, but nothing solid. According to the search files i read it has something to do with the gain on the AEM gauge for the voltage. So i'm looking in the right direction i guess
  4. Problem has been found in the meantime! The polarity of the sensor wiring was indeed reversed blaine. I stupidly mirrored it off the other side not noticing the plug is on backwards on the sensor. Now it's starting like a beauty. Warm up isnt ideal yet, but i'll start with synchronizing the itbs with propper equipment i've got at my disposal from a guy that does bike engines. And setting the base opening first. Any other stuff i should set first? also i'm still doubting between using bap and map as most stuff i read on the web suggest using bap because of the unstable pressures in the intake and on here most prefere map... So i'm a bit puzzled
  5. I swapped the exhaust cam sensor to the intake side and re-tried. same effect. i do have a waveform now but i think this is because i didnt fully understood that when u click capture it just takes a momentarely frame from the signals. before i clicked capture and only then started cranking. Where i've now clicked capture while cranking and got a waveform so i dont think there is anything wrong with the sensor i removed and put in the exhaust side. (it would surprise me as the engine came out of a known runner) So even tho i have a signal now it still doesnt start, now it even doesnt start cold... no matter what value i enter in the main fuel map, it just keeps making loud bangs out the exhaust and the occasional few rotations... Trigger Scope Log 2017-02-1 10;06;35 am.llg
  6. I just remembered that i put all the blue ground wires of all 3 trigger sensors together to the ecu's trigger ground together with the shielding wire. Is this maybe a mistake i made?
  7. hi, I have looked at the sensors and there is no way of getting more air gap in them as they seal arroud the sensor, both arround the crank and arround the cam as they are inside the head. This is another trigger scope of it cranking while hot 65degrees. (caught on once maybe on one cilinder). This looks weird to me but i dont really know what image i should be seeing. I deffo have a trigger problem as i've noticed it sometimes jumps to 4500-5500rpm while cranking and it catches one cilinder. I never much heard these sensors fail on these so i presume its al down to settings or wiring? corollablainefueldown.pclr
  8. So, as it was running yesterday i played with the throttle linkages a bit in order to synchronize them a bit. As they haven't been set up yet (due to it not running decently enough). I lowered the opening of them quite a bit aswell. so today i started it with the latest map blaine wrote for it. Not only did it have a bit more difficulty starting, i couldn't touch the throttle anymore without it stalling. And as soon as i'm above 25degrees i cant get life into it anymore. Wich is a massive problem as i need to wait for it to cool down for several hours again. When i crank, sometimes it makes a few revolutions and then dies, other times, It just cranks and when i let go of the ign swith to the on position it just bangs really loud through the exhaust. So i'm a bit affraid it will cost me yet another sensor. I must add due to playing with the itb's synchronisaton i've lowered the idle that far so i can now hear the idle air solenoid doing its job as i can clearly taking in air when cold and Gradualy i can hear it take in less and less as it warmed up. The question now is, am i correct assuming this is related to the wrong amount of fuel is being delivered? And if so, in wich of the cold start maps do i make changes when it doesnt want to start as i continue to crank. (Due to translation its not 100% clear to me) The triggering issue that Adamw suggested isn't the problem i think, as i'm seeing the same voltage warm as cold. Plus i cant really change the gap on the cam, as these are in the head and seal with a rubber o ring on their base. So putting it further out isnt really possible or it'd have an oil leak i would imagine. (Good tip tho, as i didnt know a bigger gap made more voltage)
  9. hi, So, i had another try not touching anything untill it got warm, with much more succes this time! It reacts well to throttle opening now. i've seen u've added few sights or rows (dont know the propper name for them) to fuel table at opening. Should i do the same for ignition? Or am i correct assuming the throttle opening wouldnt have a massive affect on how the ignition should be altered? It did Indeed need some adapting of the main fuel map. hd to turn it down quite a bit.As the Bosch sensor i received was wrong, I used the Innovate controller and screwed the sensor in the bung of the manifold for now so there is still no log file However i must add. i turned it off after a few minutes and tried restarting it without succes still. I must add tho, I set the throttle opening a bit lower and recalibrated the TPS. But only to 1600rpm apparently so i need to lower it some more. (due to the design of the intake adapter i cant alter idle pos without opening the throttles fully) So it not restarting once warm is a massive issue as i need to wait untill it cools to have another try... i added the log file of it running and the warm restart but as u can see still no lambda, but i dont think it is relevant when cranking? I added the ign start position to as it is connected to White-Brown DI4-An-Volt2 and i think i made the connection correctly in the software to. This however Didnt change a thing to it not wanting to start. corollablainefueldownignstartadded.pclr Log 2017-01-29 3;23;00 pm.llg Log 2017-01-29 3;17;07 pm.llg
  10. hi, @blaine@carmenaperformance, is this the latest base map, with the settings from Brad that u corrected or the one before? so with the map connected? I had the sensor in at the back of the exhaust pipe but normally i do get decent/more stable AFR numbers even when its that far back... I do understand however where u are going with this and i will make an update with the AEM back in running order asap.
  11. this is a short vid of what the afr is doing as for now the aem connected to the ecu is out of action
  12. hi, Again, verry good point there Blaine, i didnt setup the trigger further than 1000rpm and failed to spot that it is actually running at 2000 rpm on its idle position. This is because when i was adjusting the throttle opening i set them a bit to wide so i might reset them in the morning to a bit less opening and recalibrate the TPS. Or would u guys stay off it untill it wants to run a bit better than it is doing now before changing this. I did hower use the trigger scope function again and corrected this. Is this enough or do u want me te measure the signal with an osciloscope? (dont know if this is correct english for the tool) I tried Brad's setup, connected the vacuum hose to the built in map with less or more the same result. after playing with the fueling a bit it got running on idle at what point i didnt touch it and let it warm up for once. Ran well untill i touched the throttle then it went lean i reckon and died and i was unable to restart it. (warm restart is an issue i haven't been able to resolve from te start) My mapper that usually tunes my cars also pointed out i needed to set the IGN to TPS instead of MAP. The AEM wideband sensor has died on me (probably because of trying to much and having the exhaust backfires) However i made a video with my Phone wich shows the innovate handheld wideband i had in the back end of the exhaust that is showing pretty random numbers for some reason. I will have a new sensor in the morning for the AEM so i can maybe make a complete log file. here's the log file of it running and the verry slightly altered base map and log of it running from what brad made up. thanks for helping out btw! corollafuelmainup2ndattemptwarmVVTon Bradtpsset.pclr Log 2017-01-27 9;57;31 pm.llg
  13. hi, -Map is indeed not connected. as the nature of the itb's would give a bit of a unstabe reading or am i wrong? (hence why i used BAP instead of MAP) -I used the trigger scope function and found it was proucing 180mV so i set it to the minimum of 0.2 at 1000rpm (i've included the log to doublecheck if i did this the correct way or not) the ecu now doesnt appear to show the fault code anymore. -i added some enrich both for cranking (quite a lot) and some for warm up. but every time after a few seconds i find that it dies out and i can't really see on my lamda gauge if it's running to rich or lean when it does. I had a look in the log file but i cant work out how to zoom in and out on specific items i want to bring up to compare to the rpm signal. For example if i open the log and use alt+up it enlarges both the rpm and warm up enrich. and i cant nicely compare as u made the example above. Super thanks for the help so far! Log 2017-01-26 1;27;14 pm.llg Log 2017-01-26 1;27;14 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2017-01-25 8;43;06 pm.llg
  14. hi, Yes i've managed it to start it, however it sprung a water leak at the back of the engine, and due to the engine being a bit inside the firewall i've been forced to take it out to fix it. Now that it's back in i've tried to start it again and i've noticed some things: As suggested by Simon i had a play and set the main fuel table to 32 to coldstart it and back down to 18-20 s soon as is actually turning over by itsself. then pogressively turning the fuel down in the main fuel map to keep it going in an attempt to get some temp in it to start with. i started the log a bit to late as i was a bit to occupied trying to keep an eye on everything. But u'll be able to see i had it running for a bit and then without changing anything on the fuel tab, and without changing the TP it just died out and from there on out just wouldn't restart anymore no matter what amount of fuel i gave it. Fuel presssure stayed the same as it cut off as my eyes were on the gauge. IAT is set to off warm up enrich is all set to 0 pre crank, crank and post start enrich are on with values i took from the pc link software's base map fro sxe10 Could it be that i'm having trouble because the idle control valve is doing its thing and the amount of air isnt measured for so no additional fuel is added while it is operational? So at switch over points in temperature its running to rich at certain points? Or is it just down to tuning the charge temp approx table? corollafuelmainup2ndattemptwarmVVTon.pclr Log 2017-01-24 10;34;02 pm.llg
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