Pieter Gouwy

Anyone found a decent solution to this problem? i have the identical problem on an ngtt link x works well with the ignition on. but as soon as its runs, it displays connection error 1047 serial error. and it loses connection to the ecu. also sometimes displays the 1019 error code

Hi, I've installed a Link G4+ into a Jap spec JZA80 Supra and i made a loom for VAG R8 coils. Does this in fact work on a stock loom, do i need to take the ignition amp out of the loom and bridge it? Anyone already done this, and could shed light on how to do this? Thanks

Hi, I'll be installing a Link G4+ in a stock supra but on Audi R8 Coils in a few weeks time, Is there anyone that can tell me how to set the dwell time on these, And how to get rid of the stock supra Ignition amp/ Ignition module that is mounted on the left chassis leg? (The block that has a plug with 2x6 pins and a plug with 4 pins) Or a wiring diagram/ explanation on how to do the conversion would be great. Thanks

are u 100% sure about this? i went over my triggers with david from link UK and he spotted the trigger 1 being the wrong way round too. So it would surprise me that he would see the trigger one being the wrong way round, but not seeing the trigger 2 wiring error i made? I have to point out that the trigger 2 is a sensor that just sits bolted to the cam cover that just reads off a cam lobe. So it might give a bit of an odd signal because of that? Shaving the cam cover a bit would be an option, but if @Adamw thinks its not neccesary i'd rather not, as everything is nicely painted, and that would ruin it. I believe strongly it will work too, as it picks up nicely with the timing light, idling and starting works fine. But the reason i doublecheck with u guys is, i just want to learn how to do it the right way, so i know what i'm doing in the future. Did u guys see the actual values of the threshold tables how they are currently setup now? Or do i need to add the file to make u able to see at what it was set to during testing these trigger scopes?

hi, So i have a Link atom wire in onto a Ford Y5A/B engine in a lotus cortina on Jenvey ITB's. I got it running, and it runs nicely, but i want to learn how to set the Arming tresholds for the triggers propperly. according to the link help u take half of the top part of the waveform. I have added the idle, the 3000RPM adn 5000rpm trigger scope logs for u to see. But i'm wondering, is it possible that the crank trigger making 21 volts at 5K RPM? Seems a bit high to me? As if this is correct i should set the value to 10,5 but the link software says max value is 7? Trigger Scope Log 2019-06-21 4;40;28 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log cortina3000.llg Trigger Scope Log cortina5000.llg

Added the file and i've got can lambda problem...

hi, As i'm not equipped with good knoledge on Audi engines as i'm a jap specialist and i said yes i'll give it a try i'll be needing some help on the subject. Car is: Audi A4 AVJ engine code (Stock block) -Link G4+ ECU with Link Can Lambda, IAT and boost control solenoid -Garret GT2860RS Turbo on External Wastegate -480cc Injectors -Open Exhaust and airfilter -Frontmount intercooler I only have a 2WD dyno so i reckon i'll have to map it on the road only so if anyone would have a good ignition map for this type of engine/turbo setup, that be great to compare to, so i see where i need to end up at. Car starts and runs ok, Throttle responds, so that seems to work. Did the e-throttle setup from the help page, but i'm a bit unsure if i did it correctly, so is there a "how to video" on this specific matter? I've read the existing topic on the polo with the trigger issues. That got me wondering if i need to follow the same steps to calibrate/setup the trigger setup/ filtering? Are there other things that i need to be extra carefull about with these engines and what boost can u let them run on stock block? December Update: I Finally had some tim to continue on the car, but i cannot get the CAN Lambda working. I tried and tested different power supplies to the can unit itsself and triplechecked the connections of can high and low to the ecu plug wich both are fine, still no succes in bringing up the dail r finding it in the can devices tab. keeps saying cannot find can devices. I've added the file below Thanks for reading. AVJRUNNING.pclr

Hi, wire colors are quite straight forward. I just had the polarity wrong on the link loom side. And yes i did use the shield as far as i could. It is exposed near the sensor but this didnt give me any issues. bap and tps is what i used. The map signal was quite unstable at idle to be of good use. on a 20v manifold i'd use the map tho. As it has an internal chamber system that goes to all ports of the head. so it depends what adapter u used

hi, i've wired my analogue output from my digital AEM afr gauge to the analogue volt of the link G4+ and tried setting it to aem X series for calibration, That showed rich mixture on the laptop screen while it was actually running stoich. I then tried setting up the cal table 4 with the data that came with the AEM gauge instructions, This showed Lean when it was actualy stoich... So 2 different incorrect results. Does anyone have the correct calibration table values? I've searched and the only thing what i came across was @Brad Burnett that had an outcome for this problem, but nothing solid. According to the search files i read it has something to do with the gain on the AEM gauge for the voltage. So i'm looking in the right direction i guess

Problem has been found in the meantime! The polarity of the sensor wiring was indeed reversed blaine. I stupidly mirrored it off the other side not noticing the plug is on backwards on the sensor. Now it's starting like a beauty. Warm up isnt ideal yet, but i'll start with synchronizing the itbs with propper equipment i've got at my disposal from a guy that does bike engines. And setting the base opening first. Any other stuff i should set first? also i'm still doubting between using bap and map as most stuff i read on the web suggest using bap because of the unstable pressures in the intake and on here most prefere map... So i'm a bit puzzled

I swapped the exhaust cam sensor to the intake side and re-tried. same effect. i do have a waveform now but i think this is because i didnt fully understood that when u click capture it just takes a momentarely frame from the signals. before i clicked capture and only then started cranking. Where i've now clicked capture while cranking and got a waveform so i dont think there is anything wrong with the sensor i removed and put in the exhaust side. (it would surprise me as the engine came out of a known runner) So even tho i have a signal now it still doesnt start, now it even doesnt start cold... no matter what value i enter in the main fuel map, it just keeps making loud bangs out the exhaust and the occasional few rotations... Trigger Scope Log 2017-02-1 10;06;35 am.llg

I just remembered that i put all the blue ground wires of all 3 trigger sensors together to the ecu's trigger ground together with the shielding wire. Is this maybe a mistake i made?

hi, I have looked at the sensors and there is no way of getting more air gap in them as they seal arroud the sensor, both arround the crank and arround the cam as they are inside the head. This is another trigger scope of it cranking while hot 65degrees. (caught on once maybe on one cilinder). This looks weird to me but i dont really know what image i should be seeing. I deffo have a trigger problem as i've noticed it sometimes jumps to 4500-5500rpm while cranking and it catches one cilinder. I never much heard these sensors fail on these so i presume its al down to settings or wiring? corollablainefueldown.pclr

So, as it was running yesterday i played with the throttle linkages a bit in order to synchronize them a bit. As they haven't been set up yet (due to it not running decently enough). I lowered the opening of them quite a bit aswell. so today i started it with the latest map blaine wrote for it. Not only did it have a bit more difficulty starting, i couldn't touch the throttle anymore without it stalling. And as soon as i'm above 25degrees i cant get life into it anymore. Wich is a massive problem as i need to wait for it to cool down for several hours again. When i crank, sometimes it makes a few revolutions and then dies, other times, It just cranks and when i let go of the ign swith to the on position it just bangs really loud through the exhaust. So i'm a bit affraid it will cost me yet another sensor. I must add due to playing with the itb's synchronisaton i've lowered the idle that far so i can now hear the idle air solenoid doing its job as i can clearly taking in air when cold and Gradualy i can hear it take in less and less as it warmed up. The question now is, am i correct assuming this is related to the wrong amount of fuel is being delivered? And if so, in wich of the cold start maps do i make changes when it doesnt want to start as i continue to crank. (Due to translation its not 100% clear to me) The triggering issue that Adamw suggested isn't the problem i think, as i'm seeing the same voltage warm as cold. Plus i cant really change the gap on the cam, as these are in the head and seal with a rubber o ring on their base. So putting it further out isnt really possible or it'd have an oil leak i would imagine. (Good tip tho, as i didnt know a bigger gap made more voltage)

hi, So, i had another try not touching anything untill it got warm, with much more succes this time! It reacts well to throttle opening now. i've seen u've added few sights or rows (dont know the propper name for them) to fuel table at opening. Should i do the same for ignition? Or am i correct assuming the throttle opening wouldnt have a massive affect on how the ignition should be altered? It did Indeed need some adapting of the main fuel map. hd to turn it down quite a bit.As the Bosch sensor i received was wrong, I used the Innovate controller and screwed the sensor in the bung of the manifold for now so there is still no log file However i must add. i turned it off after a few minutes and tried restarting it without succes still. I must add tho, I set the throttle opening a bit lower and recalibrated the TPS. But only to 1600rpm apparently so i need to lower it some more. (due to the design of the intake adapter i cant alter idle pos without opening the throttles fully) So it not restarting once warm is a massive issue as i need to wait untill it cools to have another try... i added the log file of it running and the warm restart but as u can see still no lambda, but i dont think it is relevant when cranking? I added the ign start position to as it is connected to White-Brown DI4-An-Volt2 and i think i made the connection correctly in the software to. This however Didnt change a thing to it not wanting to start. corollablainefueldownignstartadded.pclr Log 2017-01-29 3;23;00 pm.llg Log 2017-01-29 3;17;07 pm.llg