scifisubi

Thanks for the information!

I have a Vipec WRX V1-2 Ecu in the 11xxx serial range. PCB Rev 1.2. I am looking at one of these gauges: https://store.perfecttuning.net/product/universal-gauge-for-vi-pec-linkecu-g4-g4/ I've read through the documentation on the pc link cable and I didn't see this specific topic posted elsewhere in the forum. My question is, can my ecu run canbus to the gauge and data log from the usb to the pc at the same time? It sounds like there may be limitations on what can be done, but I wanted to double check. Thanks for the help!

Here is my map and log...thanks for taking the time to look! Steve test davcs 5.pcl Log 2-08-17 5;56;30 pm.rar

I got the vvt triggers all calibrated but I'm still getting an intermittent error from one of them. Everything is green during idle and revving, but as soon as the rpms decrease and the motor gets close to idle again I sometimes get an error on the LH Intake VVT. Would this be indicative of a sensor issue? Thanks.

Thanks Adam! Sorry to make you quote yourself...I guess my reading and listening skills haven't been that good lately. Joe: Any luck on your front? Did you end up pulling the whole motor out? I was thinking you might be able to get away with simply pulling the timing covers off and removing the metal covers for the cam gears that way.

Adam, Could you clarify how the cam test angle function works? I went through the steps in the guide but I'm a little confused about how the test pulse count works. I set it to 1, but I get varying numbers on the display, as I increase this, about 3 the numbers start to steady out so I can read them. If I am looking at the runtime display should I be reading the offset via cam angle #1 (ATDC)? For instance I am selecting LH Inlet cam test, which is trigger 2, at 3 test pulse count I have numbers in cam angle #1-3 but am not sure which one is the offset value. I am thinking that my offsets must be wrong because I am green across the board in the vvt runtime list until I start revving the engine, then I start to get error flags and my vvt test function is always lit in red. Thanks for the help. Edit: Looks like I need to always use the lowest value in the list of values...

Just a thought...what heads are you using? W25, W20, Z20? I know on mine that when I removed the cam sprockets one of the springs popped out of the pin...if the spring isn't seated correctly the system won't work. Might be worth thinking about.

Joe, Check out this diagram...it shows the location of the positive and negative and signal wires on the sensors. Have you tried to use the "test pwm" function for your solenoids? If not maybe give that a try...you should hear a low pitched hum/clicking when you engage each one, at least then you might be able to rule out some items there.

Exciting Update! After spending most of the weekend with my multimeter checking wiring I have finally gotten the avcs completely working! Unfortunately this might not help you Joe but here's what I did: 1st: To fix the intake problem, I found out that I most likely have a burned out pin on my ecu. I was using DI2...for the intake RH sensor and never getting a signal...I really had a hard time troubleshooting this because of the way vts software seems to handle the runtime display...the way I would trouble shoot is to swap the wires, and then start up the ecu and see if the error persisted, and it always did. What I didn't realize is that if you reconfigure the ecu inputs it doesn't reset the runtime values until you cycle the power, so for instance, if you have DI2 as vvt intake lh and then swap it to vvt intake rh it will still say vvt intake lh no signal even though it should say vvt rh no signal. I don't know if the link software behaves like this but I learned the hard way that you need to cycle the power on the ecu after changing the settings and before checking the wiring. 2nd: To fix the exhaust problem was easy but tedious, I checked every wire I had run with a multimeter from the sensor pigtail to the ecu...I found out that I had mislabeled the right and the left sensors on the harness...doh!!! So this was easy to fix by simply re-configuring the ecu. Like I said earlier, this may not really help you out, but maybe you can use this to try and find your solution. I am going to continue to monitor this thread so if you keep posting I'll try and help you out if I have any ideas. In the mean time I was using pin number 46 as digital input 2...either this is the wrong pin or mine is burned out, Adam, can you confirm that this is the correct pin? I'm hoping maybe I had the wrong pin but I guess if it's wrecked then I can live with it.

What do your exhaust sensors look like? Are they 2 or 3 wire? Mine are 2. I have the vipec ecu and all my exhaust avcs values are negative

I'm in the United States. I actually saw that wiring picture when I was browsing last evening looking for a solution but the way I read that they actually don't appear to be going to different positions as the pins are still numbered the same, they are just re-ordered possibly so that the wires could be drawn more neatly? Here is the diagram I've been using and it corresponds with the factory wiring harness that I have in my possession, Pin 1 is always power, and pin 3 is always ground, the middle pin 2 is signal, the post omitted the bottom part of the diagram where the actual plug is shown. Joemobile, thanks for joining in my thread! I was trying to find you last night so I could compare notes...maybe between you and I and Adam we can all get this figured out together. Please keep posting if you have any progress and I'll do the same. Steve Gen IV - Wiring 225.pdf Edit: Joe, since you are having problems with your LH Trigger and I am having problems with my RH DI why don't you look at the base configuration I posted above and see if it is the same as yours because that is working on mine.

Update: Today I ran a completely new set of wires to the RH Intake AVCS Cam Sensor all the way from the sensor to the ecu...still no dice though. Is it possible that if the timing were off a tooth or so I would get a "no signal" error on the ecu? I would think it would still be seeing a signal if this were the case. I swapped the sensor for a known good one so that should rule that out. This is most puzzling. Thanks for the help.

Adam, This is the only place I've been in contact with you so there must be two people with this issue. My thoughts are that it has to be a wiring issue as well on the RH Cam Position sensor, however there are only three wires, two of them are going to the same place as the left cam trigger (power and ground) and I know these are good as I checked them with my meter, and the third that goes to the ecu has continuity all the way from the sensor pigtail to the ecu plug. I even swapped sensors to see if maybe this was a bad sensor but no luck. I've setup the trigger values as indicated by the online help for subaru quad avcs and checked those many times but I'll give it another look. I'll try and search the forum again to try and find the other person who is having this problem that you are helping with, sorry you are having to do things twice for two different people. Thanks.

Thanks Adam, that really helped with the idle! Right now I am having trouble with the vvt settings...I just finished rechecking all of the wiring and couldn't find anything at fault. Basically what is happening is that there is no signal on the RH Cam inlet position and the two exhaust cam position values are constantly flashing between red and green, sometimes they say that there is a sync error. I have the two inlet cam position solenoids wired the exact same way so it seems strange that one is working and one isn't...I've checked the signal, power and ground wiring and it all looks good. I wonder if there is a setting in the ecu that I may have missed perhaps? I set everything up according to the subaru quad avcs settings sheet provided. Here's a screenshot of what is happening. Thanks again for all the assistance!

Thanks Adam! That did it...I switched the check engine light to the inj drive and the tach to the regular aux output and now everything is well! I am having a strange idle issue though. I am using the wrx v7-9 idle air control setup so I ported all of the settings over from that base map, however, the engine is not idling consistently. My idle target is 800 rpm, sometimes it hits that but usually it is idling at around 1500 rpm. I logged a bit today where the motor was at 800 at the start of the log and then every time it should have gone into idle it would be hovering at 1500 rpm. Any idea what the issue could be? I know that this is a really broad question and that it may not be ecu related at all but I'd like to rule out the electronics for sure. I've tested the iacv with the test function within the ecu and it appears to be working fine. I've noticed that sometimes when I push f12 the idle status under auxiliary says "hold rpm lockout", could this be the problem? It seems that adjusting the low idle rpm lockout under closed loop lambda has little affect on this. Here is my configuration and data log...thank you very much for all of the help thus far! working davcs 1.pcl test log.zip Edit: I may have solved this, I raised the rpm lockout from 600 to 1000 rpm and now the idle stabilizes where it should albeit a little slow...I am fairly confident that a few more adjustments should yield good results!

I've now got pretty much everything working correctly except that I'm having a problem with the inj 6 pin. I can't seem to control anything with this pin, I wanted to control the tach, but I also tried the boost control solenoid and it doesn't seem to work. I'm using pin #23 on the diagram which is a red and blue wire originally labeled ac fan control, can someone please confirm if this is correct? Any ideas what might be happening here? I know that these items work correctly on other pins so I'm pretty stumped. Note: For anyone else following this thread with a similar build, Adam is right, there are indeed three wires off the left intake cam sensor, however, only one goes to the ecu...the other two are power and ground, in my case I left the trigger (-) wire blank and it seems to work fine thus far.

Thanks Adam! That's just what I needed. Since the quad avcs cam sensor only has one wire it should be wired to pin 38 then?

Can someone confirm for me please what the pin is for trigger 1 and trigger 2 on the wrx v1-2 ecu? I am seeing cam angle at 37 & 38 and crank angle on 52 & 53...I am wanting to confirm which one is input and which is ground. Thanks!

Thanks for the info on that pin. Is there a VVT Exhaust Target table available anywhere for the ecu? All of the base maps feature intake only avcs...I was wondering if there is a good base table available or do I need to start from scratch? Thanks for all the help so far!

Thanks for the info! That is really helpful...I will adjust my wiring accordingly. One other question that I'd like clarification on is where the DI 3 input is actually located on the wrx v1-2 plug in ecu...in the manual it states pin #57 which corresponds to B58 #12 "fuel pump relay ingition on", however the base map lists this as "power steering sensor" which should actually be F47 #16 or #24 as indicated on the diagram in the vipec manual...could you clarify which pin the DI 3 is actually on? Thanks again!

I have been looking at the base maps provided for plug in ecus for wrxs with avcs...I am a little confused. I see that for a single avcs system DI 1 and DI 2 are both used as cam position sensors and in the triggers section trigger 2 is set to v vti = off...does this mean that the ecu is not actually using trigger 2 but rather one of the digital inputs instead? My original plan was to have one of the cam sensors wired to trigger 2 with v vti = inlet/ lh but I see this is not how any of the base maps are set up. Could you please clarify the difference between trigger 2 and a digital input channel in regards to this? Thanks Again!

Thanks Scott! I'll have to remove to ecu from the vehicle to see if I have this or not...I'm in Montana and the weather is bad here right now so might be awhile, it would be nice to have those extra connections though!

Adam, I'm looking at my expansion connector...I have 8 wires there but no additional ign 7 & 8 drives....Am I missing something? I see two digital in, 2 an volt and 2 an temp. Thanks

Thanks Adam! I just looked at my package and it says PCB rev 1.2 so it looks like I may have more inputs than I thought! I've looked into switching to the newer crank trigger and it sounds like all I would need to do is swap the crank sprocket from a newer engine...Thanks again for the help!

Hello, I have a Vipec Subaru V1-2 Ecu that I would like to run a set of newer dual avcs heads with, both intake and exhaust cams. Here is my current wiring, and my proposed wiring...it looks like it should work to me, but I wanted to get verification on this idea though. Currently I am running an Sti ej20g setup but I will convert the intake to a V7-8 style sti intake with drive by cable, and v10 sti style dual avcs heads, I've noted how some of the Aux and Digital inputs will be freed up. Thanks for the help! Current Wiring New AVCS Wiring Aux 1 – ISC Sol. Slave VVT Cam Solenoid (ISC Slave Removed as per Sti V7-8 manifold Aux 2 – ISC Solenoid VVT Cam Solenoid Aux 3 – Tacho VVT Cam Solenoid Aux 4 – Boost Solenoid VVT Cam Solenoid (Boost controlled via MBC) Aux 5 – Fuel Pump Fuel Pump Aux 6 – Aircon Clutch Tacho Aux 7 – Purge ISC Solenoid (Purge Controlled via Hobbs Switch) Aux 8 – CE Light CE Light Injector Drive 1 – Injector 1 Injector Drive 2 – Injector 2 Injector Drive 3 – Injector 3 Injector Drive 4 – Injector 4 Injector Drive 5 – Engine Fan (HS) Injector Drive 6 – Engine Fan DI 1 – Start Position DI 2 – Air Con Request VVT Cam Position DI 3 – Power Steer VVT Cam Position DI 4 – Speed VVT Cam Position DI 5 – OFF Power Steer DI 6 – OFF Speed AN Temp 1- Engine coolant Temp AN Temp 2 – Inlet Air Temp AN Temp 3 – OFF AN Volt 1 – MAP Sensor AN Volt 2 – OFF An Volt 3 – TPS (Main) AN Volt 4- Voltage 0-5v AN Volt 5 – Wideband AN Volt 6 – OFF