mjb214

For more clarification here is a video showing exactly what I would like to do. He isn't running Link but otherwise, same model MR2 and same goal. I want to display gauges and still have radio functionality if possible. The radio side he made a pretty good write up on I think I can follow. The ECU side I need to be sure it will work with the Link and then find a tablet that best fits the space.

Well that heater core was an absolute nightmare. It got me thinking. I have been wanting to look into a tablet head unit to replace the radio but really wanted it to double as a digital dash. Does link support this? Anyone have any experience mounting one to look clean in a SW20 MR2? I found some online, One was running MS3 and looked awesome but no radio that I saw.

New heater core is on the way. If I get up there this weekend I will swap it in. and hopefully be able to test the throttle response and run it through the gears on the lift. I was able to get the seat belts and seats fully in finally. I had to weld up some brackets so the buckle was not tucked down below the seat cushion. Does the OBD port really need sensor ground for the two ground wires. Some online states chasis ground. Where is the best place to grab power, do I need to put it straight to battery or is there a good place to tie in that is powered all the time.

Just an update. My dad in an attempt to help took off the rubber hose using channel locks which crushed the copper pipe. So that solidified not being able to repair the heater core. Upon closer inspection it is completely plugged with stop leak anyway. I ordered a new heater core and i'll pull the dash to install that in the next 2 weeks. I didn't get a chance to run your new throttle settings as it would spray coolant in the front trunk.

Yea, I replaced the copper pipes that go over the gas tank from engine to heater core with rubber hoses as they had leaks when I had the gas tank out to replace the fuel pump with a larger one. I didn't catch this one until just last weekend. This one is up in the front trunk where the heater core has two copper lines that stick into the front trunk right above the battery. 1" after the hose connected there is a crack in the copper. I am hoping to either cut it back or solder onto it. The heater core is around 150 used but a pain to replace as it's behind the dash. I have some of the interior still apart as I am going to be re-wiring the gauge cluster to hook up to my 93+ gauge cluster in lieu of the 92 one that had a mechanical speedometer which was broken. The new one is identical looking but electronic speedometer, and naturally they changed the connectors and where half the wires go just for fun. I made my own diagram by following the board on the back so I am fairly confident I can get that working. Then I need to solder in a resister to get the tach right which there are posts of how to do online. The wiring was the biggest thing for me to tackle as it was all new to me, all of your support was amazing. Hopefully I won't have much more dumb questions as I think this is as much tuning as I will do. Once it goes through all the gears and I am confident it is mechanically sound I will schedule the tuner which has a 4-6 week backlog usually.

Thanks. I've made all those changes and will test it next weekend. My dad was in the car while I was watching the computer, the TP drop was after he revved it and let off it almost stalled out and then recovered. Hopefully your updates here will help with that. We found a leak right where the heat core pipe comes out of the front fire wall. If I can get that leak fixed I will be putting the seats/seatbelts in then putting it on the lift to test each gear and look for anything amiss under the car while it's in gear. After which I'll drive it. I don't want to buy a new heater core, my plan is to cut the pipe, flare it further back and put a new hose in. (it's copper) Not relevant to this discussion but this might stop me from testing it as the coolant leaks right above the battery.

sorry, Try this one https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UvFXrHWviQozSUGRUXWELnU_ruJHPats

I was able to get up. After sg hoses under the car in prep for the first drive I was able to run it. As you stated I slowly edited it each 10 degrees to adjust idle. I kept the idle around 750-800 at the end and I think i'll keep it here. I put in 10 degrees either way for the intake and exhaust and believe it was working as intended. The log was too big to post so a link to my google drive is below. The Map was mall enough to attach. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-_DDuXrp7QX0QR5OgXlGV8oUfoOPTwAU Any other thoughts? 2-1-20 includes cam movement.pclr Next weekend I will be going through the gears with it on the lift to check the tranny and for anything rubbing underneath. Then hopefully drive it down the road.

Thanks. I'll be back up sunday and I am starting to secure hoses and such to test drive line while in the air and maybe drive it slowly. Before that I'll run it and walk through the things you mentioned trying to work on. I'll log it with some cam movement as well. I think the errors were left over from the times I was trying to resolve it until I found the resistor. Next log will verify that.

Thanks. I'll try that to see if it is responding correctly. Right now if the solenoid is charged it should show manifold pressure to the spring, so it still won't open until it overcomes the spring which I believe is the normal way to operate it. The test you mentioned will tell me what I need to know. The turbo is brand new so I am confident the spring mechanism will work. The last question is finding out what spring is in the actuator and adjusting the preload on it. Possibly ordering a new spring if needed but hopefully it shipped with a 5psi spring like I think it did.

I pulled the wiring apart to check my splices on the grounds and 5v source, all the wires were very tight with good conductivity everywhere. So I cut the shrink wrap off my resistors to check them. I know I got the correct resistances but the error was that I put the Trigger resistor on Cam 3 (the one that wasn't working). Just as you suggested it was the resistor. Thank you for the excellent support in finding another gremlin. The car is reading all 4 cams now properly. The only thing left to do is check to see if the boost solenoid actuates and then set up my tune session. Along with a million small items to get it totally finished but that isn't related to the ECU. Here is my latest log, if you notice anything else I can improve on. It still is a little slow to start on cold start and doesn't start super smooth. After a second of running it clears up and slowly lowers rpm as it warms up as intended. Is there an easy way to test the boost solenoid other than building boost? I want it set at 5psi until I get to the tuner and then I will target 8-9psi for now and late raise it to 15ish. 1-12-20 working cams.pclr Log 2020-01-12.llg

Thanks. Is the A-24 pin the corrent pin for Sensor ground and how many sensors can be on that ground at once? I'll pull the rest of the harness apart next weekend and search further. I am positive it's the same resistor as the others and the correct resistance.

The car started much better without any throttle added. Still a little slow to crank, maybe 2-3 seconds before it bits but I am sure the tuner can adjust that when I get it finished. I swapped the wires to have the trigger on the bad signal wire and ran the scope. Attached. Does this help at all discover if it's a bad wire? When I took the trigger scope it showed the wave form and I saved it. When I open it now and hit play it says no data. I hope it's there and I am just doing something wrong. Trigger Scope Log 2020-01-4 9_49_58 am.llg Trigger Scope Log 2020-01-4 9_52_27 am.llg

Thanks. I didn't put anything into the post start, it was just whatever default. I chose the motor 2gr-fe so maybe by choosing that it has some defaults that are off? Or it could be I did something wrong since this is my first time. Either way I will update the enrichment and that should solve that problem. These are on 5 volts, and the one in question is DI2 I think. DI1 and 3 are also Cam sensors but they are working fine. The 5v power comes in one wire and splites to the sensors on it but is maybe 8 ways. Only one thing has an error. The signal ground is joined between the 4 cam sensors and I think a few other sensors and brought to pin A-24 Gnd Out. Nothing has issues except DI2. DI2 has continuity in GND to the other sensors and also the pin. I should be able to get up there this weekend and try to mess with the wires. I don't have a scope so I may swap wires and try running them as you suggested first and then check for voltage drop. I was playing with it on my PC since the car is an hour away. When I change it from 3D to 2D the defaults all appear correct. So likely I changed it to 3-D and that is what messed up the table.

I was finally able to work on the car again. I wasn't able to swap the wiring to another cam so I took the cam sensor out and swapped them twice. Both times it remained at the same Cam. I pulled open the wiring and found the wire broken, I fixed this but the error did not go away. I checked voltage to the main wire and it was 5V. Voltage through the signal wire was 2.74V and the ground had continuity to the grounds with the other sensors going to Pin A-24. Is there anything else I could be missing? My next guess was to run jumper signal ground directly to just that sensor, and see if that helped. Also the car first start has trouble, I have to give it gas for ~5 seconds to keep it running and then it's fine to idle. Only happens on cold starts. What is a good change to the cold start enrichment. Thanks again, hope you all had a great Christmas! 12-29-19 cam issue.pclr1 cam not working 12-29-19.llg

The cam test was not running during this log. I had tried turning it on but nothing happened that I could see. The angles were all 0 and it had the signal error. You are correct it's the DI2 which is going to Inlet RH. At this time I left the graphs at zero so they aren't doing anything I just want them working for the tuner so there are no setbacks in actually getting the car on the dyno. They are all wired the same and have the appropriate pull up resister. I'll take the intake plenum off and check the wiring when I have a chance. I only had a short time to get this done and 3/4 worked but I was in a rush and forgot to grab the tune map. It's Holiday this week so I am not sure I will be up to the car in the next week. But I will pull the wiring and check voltages and continuity as soon as I can.

Thanks, I was able to get 3 of them reading however one would not read. I ran out of time to check for wiring issues. I also forgot to download the ECU map before I left the car. Does the log show anything that might reveal why the one cam still isn't responding? 1 cam not working.llg

Thanks for the explanation. Perfect. I'll run that next weekend when I am back at the car.

After reviewing the wiring yet again the diagram I paid for is wrong. Pin 1 needed to go to 6 and 2 to 5 3 and 4 were correct. After re pinning it the wideband now works. I am sure this is a stupid question but I could not find reference for as to how to start the cam test so after googling and doing a bunch of other random things to the car I gave up for the day. I'll be back working on it next week. Where is the test itself? I checked all the settings and they appear to be all the degrees and settings straight from the 2gr-fe help file. I was also unable to figure out how to get the idle down. I set it to target 700-800 rpm but it stays up at 1100. It is running better than before and I was able to lean it out a little as you can see in the log. I did not mess with any pedal settings. I plan to schedule some dyno time once I make sure the car drives down the street without issue. I believe he has a 4 week backlog. thanks again for the help. 11-17-19 wideband working.pclrwideband working.llg

I have not done any extensions to the WB wiring. I checked that it was getting power and it was, but I will check the ground and investigate the 6th pin you mentioned. The sensor was brand new and I was careful not to drop it or hit it on anything so I think it's in good working order. Hopefully just a easy wiring issue. I'll chase the ground. 1) I saw the cam sensor errors but hadn't tried to tackle that yet. I'll read through the cam section and try to run tests and figure that out this weekend. 2) Good to know, I'll look up how to adjust PID settings and see if I can figure this out. Realistically I want to get the WB working so I can setup dyno time and get the real tuner to look at this stuff, but the more I can sort out ahead of time the better.

I got the car running again, replaced the fuel filter and gassed her up. The wideband still isn't getting a signal, I checked and it is getting 12V on Key on and 13V on running. I let the car run for about 45 minutes. The thermostat is now working, the fans turn on and it smoothed out a lot with the timing advance I added. I had to drain the water since it is getting cold here and I just had water in it for leak checking. Next weekend I'll fill it up with coolant. I have the WB sensor soaking in acetone as it was pretty black from how rich it was running. It didn't look clogged, and I wasn't sure how else to check other than voltage. Any advice on the WB other than buying a new one and trying that? Latest logs attached if you have any other pointers let me know. 11-9-19 no wideband signal.pclr running no wideband signal.llg

Thanks I'll be replacing the fuel filter and turning on the WB and adding some timing and this next weekend try it out again.

Thanks for reviewing. I know I turned on the WB, perhaps I didn't save or overwrote it somehow. I hope that's the case. As for the fuel, it was at 44psi and working properly. I already had ordered a fuel filter since I should have replaced it while it was out and forgot. It is also possible it ran out of gas, which I didn't even think of at the time but also makes sense. Even if it did run out it is super rich and running very rough, I guess to be expected since I am learning. I hope the WB is working and it was just messing up. That aside, how can I get it to idle higher at cold start up. It was 450-550rpm bouncing last weekend when it was running for ~5-10 minutes warming up. When it got above 175F it still didn't smooth out. When the thermostat never opened I shut it down at 220F and replaced that for this weekends test. Assuming I am just an idiot and the WB is fine and the gas was either the filter or empty, what else can I change prior to next weekend? What Log would be most beneficial to review? If I can get it running smooth I'll be able to finish up the W2A I/C pump wiring and get the seatbelts in for a test drive and then I can schedule my dyno time. Since I rebuilt the trans myself I want to make sure there isn't anything wrong with the drivetrain before I pay for time.

So I had it running last week, although poorly but running. Got it up to temp but the thermostat didn't open so I shut down and just replaced it today. I went to start it and it was running even worse and shut off after a minute or two of rough idle at 500ish rpm. I thought I had set the target at 750 and moved it up but didn't have an effect so I am sure I am doing it wrong. It seems very rich but I don't see a signal from the Wideband. I am pretty sure the wideband is wired correctly. Can someone take a look at the logs and the tune. I am most interested in the wideband not reading, and the ignition and fuel tables. I just want to get a stable idle so I can warm it up and make sure the fans and such work before I set up an appt with the actual tuner which will require and hour long tow. Thanks for the help again. For reference it's a 2GR-FE with a turbo in a 92 MR2. Injectors are 525CC bought from Monkey wrench racing. Motor is stock from a 2016 Toyota Avalon with ~15k miles. Link G4+ Fury. Also why does it show a oil temp which is way high and I don't have an oil temp sensor. I tried finding it to delete it but gave up. not starting.llg11-2-19 rough running tune.pclrrunning rough.llg

Gotcha, I'll check it while the car is running and get that ironed out. I didn't type in that We had a jumper in there but didn't have the right wires to be able to have it all go. I'll look for some other wire to try and make it work better and have them in line. Next I'll be finishing vacuum lines, and getting the coolant lines hooked up. Then fabricating the intake/intercooler piping and buying/mounting the intercooler. Then re wiring the gauges and hopefully off for a tune. Still lots to do but felt great to hear it run. Anyone have a base timing table they can shoot me for a turbo 2GR? I haven't messed with tuning much but mine looks way too advanced. I'll be having a real tuner do the real work, but I want to get it able to drive onto the trailer and test out to make sure everything is good before I start paying for someone's help.